Newsletter
July, 2009
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TASTING CALENDAR
WINE
SAKE SAMPLING AT NOSH
Tuesday, July 14, 6:00pm
Think you don’t like sake? Think you know all there is to know about it? This tasting will change your mind and delightfully surprise you. When we tasted some of the sakes being poured at the tasting, it was a revelation. The variety and quality were amazing! It proved how versatile sakes can be in pairing with many dishes—not just sushi. Take advantage of this great sake lineup, Nosh’s fantastic food, and a presentation chock full of information that will broaden your sake horizons. And for just $30 plus tax & tip?! Are we kidding? Nope! Get thee to the telephone and make your reservations. Call Coaltrain at 719-475-9700. @ Nosh, 121 S. Tejon St.
ANNUAL BAROLO AND BARBARESCO TASTING AT LA PETITE
Wednesday, July 29, 6:00pm
Here we go again. This time we’ll be saying goodbye to many of the profound 2004 Barolos and Barbarescos. At the same time we will be saying hello to some of the sexy 2005s. Yes, it has been two great, but different, vintages for the wines of Piemonte. In the line-up will be the names of makers such as Bruno Giacosa, Elio Grasso, Paolo Scavino, Mauro Molino and other all-stars. To enhance the wines, Chef Henri Chaperont of La Petite Maison will prepare delightful and ample antipasti (with a French twist, of course). The tariff per taster is $79. (plus tax and gratuity). This is always a popular tasting so please call us early to reserve your seats (475-9700). Seating is very limited.
BEER
XMAS IN JULY
Wednesday, July 15th, 6pm.
Join us at The Warehouse for some fabulous beers from last December. These beers have been patiently aging in the cellar and are ready to be evaluated. Some bright summer beers will be supplemented to round out the line-up. Breweries represented include St. Bernardus, St. Feullien, Fantome, Stone, Dupont, and Jolly Pumpkin to name a few. $40 inclusive. Call 475-9700 for reservations.
NORWEGIAN BEER TASTING
Wednesday, August 26th, 6pm.
Join us at The Warehouse for some special beers from extreme northern Europe. These will be fantastic highend brews from the progressive brewers of Haand, Mikkeller, and Nøgne Ø. There will be IPAs, Saisons and some of their stronger, more experimental efforts. $40 Inclusive. Call 475-9700 for reservations.
Coming in September… 2nd Annual Sour Tasting… Date TBD
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WINES OF THE MONTH…
RED, WHITE AND “LA VIE EN ROSE”
Red
2007 Evodia Garnacha, Calatayud, $9.99: For those of you who have rocked with Las Rocas Garnacha, this is the same wine. The importer sold the Las Rocas label, not the wine. So, in the future, the Las Rocas you see is not the “real deal.” Anyway, here you have a playfully buxom Grenache with a pout of red fruit and mineral. The latter comes from the slate composition of its vineyard. It is equilibrated, mouth filling and as long on the finish as Hugh Hefner. Is it the best yet from this property? Could be. The price is, frankly, unbelievable for a wine of this quality.
White
2007 Ceretto Arneis Blange, Piedmont, $19.99/Sale $14.99: We don’t need to tell you that the Piedmont region of Italy gives us amazing red wines…Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera… but have you tried the charming white from there? Arneis is a white grape varietal from Piedmont in northern Italy. It was on the verge of disappearing in the early 1970s when only two wineries, Giacosa and Vietti, were bottling Arneis. However, it regained popularity and is now made by several producers, including Ceretto. We were absolutely delighted when we tasted this wine. It is fresh with a liveliness in the mouth that is sooo appealing on a hot summer day. The blend of pear and lime flavors with a hint of almond is simply delicious. A lighter bodied wine, this Arneis will be perfect with more delicate foods such as whitefish, scallops, or roast chicken. And, we can’t think of a better wine to drink on its own on these warm summer evenings. With this incredible price, you should buy a case and make this your summer wine of 2009!
Rose
2008 Charles & Charles Rose, Columbia Valley, Washington $11.99/Sale $10.99: A remarkable achievement in dry, New World rose. It’s not so surprising because one of the “Charles,” behind the wine, is Charles Bieler who has been providing us the Bieler rose from southern France for many a year. This has a killer nose of strawberries and other red fruits. On the palate it is bone dry and abloom with red fruit flavors. It’s made totally from Syrah and again, we stress, it’s completely dry. As the Charles say, “They bring Old World finesse and New World go.”
$120 MIXED CASE
If you’ve tried our new mixed cases—in Red & White or all Red, you know that you’re always sure to be pleasantly surprised by a bottle or two (or 12!). If you haven’t, what are you waiting for?! There’s no better way to try great examples of wines from around the world and to ease into unexplored wine territory. How else will you find those hidden gems and your new favorites? We know this is part of the reason you shop at Coaltrain, so we’re making it easier for you. (Cases are accompanied by a short description of each wine.) The discount from the regular shelf price is always better than our already great 10% case discount.
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New Arrivals
UNITED STATES
We recently had lunch with Pete Seghesio, one of our (and the world’s) favorite Zinfandel producers. We tasted through a number of wines, but one that really got our attention was the 2006 Seghesio Rockpile Dry Creek Zinfandel ($33.99). Explosive fruit (primarily spicy cherry & blackberry) flavors combine with soft tannins to produce a wine that really impressed us. An excellent example of classy Zinfandel. As Pete said, “Does it get any better than their Rockpile and a great Blue Star burger?” We agreed.
2007 Seghesio Barbera, Sonoma, $24.99: We have always loved Seghesio Zinfandels and now we’ve found another varietal from them that is superb. This Barbera is made from cuttings from the original home vineyard planted by the Seghesios in 1895. It is a combination of Old World and New World styles with the structure and flavor of a Northern Italian wine but the body and weight of a Californian. We aren’t often impressed with Italian varietals grown domestically, but we really like this one!
2007 Napa Cellars Chardonnay, Napa Valley, $16.99: For classic California Chardonnay devotees. The malolactic pops out in the nose. Also, there is a scent of light oak. On the palate it is medium bodied and savory. The key to the wine’s success is the precise balance.
2006 Napa Cellars Merlot, Napa Valley, $16.99: Yet another winner from Napa Cellars. This guy gives you spicy, blackberry essences in the nose. There is also a note of pencil shavings that provides seriousness. In the mouth, it is medium bodied, equilibrated and interesting. By no means another ho-hum Merlot.
2008 Broadside Chardonnay, Edna Valley, 19.99/Sale $17.99: A distinct and delicious Chardonnay from Edna Valley. It is made from wild yeasts. This gives crisp acidity with some creaminess and nuttiness. A real phenom from this young winery.
2007 Broadside Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, Margarita Vineyard, $21.99/Sale $19.99: Bewitching black berry and graphite on the nose. Clear minerality on the palate. Admirable acidity. Enjoy it or over the next three or four years. These guys really seem to know what they are doing.
2007 Brazin Old Vine Zinfandel, Lodi, $18.99: This truly “brazen” Zin seduces with juicy raspberry, plum and blueberry fruit. Yet it’s no jelly belly. It’s been aged 12 months in French and American oak which lends some vanilla to the flavor profile. It’s an easy drinking red that would be dandy with grilled meats or Mexican dishes, “seguro.” We are impressed.
2007 Tamas Estates Pinot Grigio, Monterey, $10.99/ Sale $9.99: Pretty amazing stuff here. The amazement is that it so dry and crisp. In fact, it “out-crisps” most any Italian Pinot Grigio so it’s quite the refresher in a white. The ideal item for a hot July afternoon or eve.
NEW ZEALAND
2007 Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, $15.99: This is a whole other animal than the normal New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, coming from the great Marlborough wine growing region. Mainly, it doesn’t smack you in the mouth with grapefruit essences. Rather there is tropical fruit upfront and chalky acidity on the finish. In many ways, it is more akin to a Loire Sauvignon Blanc (Sancerre, Quincy or Pouilly Fume) than its New Zealand brethren. You might note that it is from the 2007 vintage which would be a touch old for other Marlborough SBs. But not this, it is made to age well for several years. (Wine Spectator: 90 points)
2007 Stone Paddock Sauvignon Blanc, Hawkes Bay, $12.99/Sale $11.99: In a lot of ways this Kiwi SB mirrors the one above. It’s not as aggressive as the Marlborough norm. There are limes and lemon peel on the nose. Flavors are lively and refined. It comes from the north island, Hawkes Bay wine zone.
2006 Rippon Pinot Noir, Lake Wanaka, Central Otago, $47.99: Quintessential Otago Pinot. The wine is full, but there is a palpable tautness to all its components. It’s complex and delicious. Not a thing is overdone. You can see why Rippon’s Pinot Noirs are gaining fame around the world. You can enjoy it now or hold it for a few years. It would be killer with salmon or spring lamb.
FRANCE
2007 J. Vidal-Fleury Cotes-du-Rhone Blanc, $15.99/ Sale $12.99: Well, if you are a fan of Condrieu, but not the astronomic price, this is your dream come true. It’s 100 percent Viognier; like Condrieu. It has honeysuckle, stone fruits and everything we all adore in Viognier. It will transport you to the riverside of the Rhone River, perhaps the terrace of the Hotel Beau Rivage in Condrieu.
2006 Feraud-Brunel Cotes-du-Rhone Villages, $14.99: Wow, this sure isn’t your ordinary Cotes-du-Rhone. It has power, depth, substance. It’s really something stimulating to stick your nose into. No surprise, it is made by two renowned Chateauneuf makers, Andre Brunel (Les Cailloux) and Laurence Feraud (Domaine du Pegau). It displays dark fruits, Provencal herbs and that ineffable “garrigue.” It has enough tannic structure that we believe it could age for three or four years. A most impressive effort.
2007 Domaine de Florets Gigondas, $25.99/Sale $22.99: This is one of the house wines of the Hotel Floret, outside of the village of Gigondas across from the renowned “Dentelles” (touring rock formations like the Garden of The Gods, but on the top of mountains). It’s a family run hotel with signs of fatigue…creaky floors and swayback beds. But it’s a place to love. And this is a wine to love. From old vines, Gerome Boudier has crafted an expressive, elegant wine, awash with fruit that is approachable right now. The blend is 80 percent Grenache, 10 percent Syrah, 5 percent Mourvedre and 5 percent Cinsault.
2006 Andre Vatan Sancerre Rouge, $21.99: It’s not every day you see a red Sancerre in the U.S., but they certainly do exist and this is one of the best we’ve tasted in recent years. It’s made from Pinot Noir. One snort of the nose will tell you that…it explodes with cherries and other red fruits. In the mouth, you get similar bright, cherry flavors. It’s a joy to drink. And, with the world’s Pinot prices remaining at high levels, it’s a joy to buy too.
2005 Ch. Terrefort Lescalle, Bordeaux, $11.99/Sale $9.99: Wow, a 2005 Bordeaux for ten bucks! Its Old World style…some leather and hint of the stable. The Merlot fruit is delicious, but restrained, not gushy. The oak is minimal (large barrels), but pulls the flavors together. A find for Bordeaux purists seeking fine values.
2004 Domaine de la Dourbie, Mala Coste, Cote de Languedoc, $22.99/ Sale $19.99: This is an excellent example of a wine with Old World character… those horse barn essences are definitely there. They meld with flavors of baked cherry, dried plum and chocolate. The age of this blend comes through nicely and the fruit is still plentiful. All in all, a wonderfully integrated wine with soft tannins that is drinking beautifully!
ITALY
2007 Mocali Rosso di Montalcino, $19.99: Technically the difference between Rosso di Montalcino and the revered Brunello from the same zone is the aging. Rosso di Montalcino must be aged a year and Brunello three and one half years (it used to be more). But usually there are more differences than this— for the Rosso, young vines are often used or grapes from less than ideal vineyard sites. These can give you wines that taste more like Beaujolais than Brunello. But not this Mocali Rosso. It comes from the same five acres from which Mocali makes its Brunello. This wine is dark and brooding with black fruit flavors on a tannic foundation. It’s about as good as Rosso di Montalcino can be. We even think it would mature for five years, maybe more.
2004 Oddero Barolo, $32.99: From the classic 2004 vintage, a Classic Barolo at a low price. There is tobacco and dried fruit on the nose. The flavors abound with cherries and other red fruits with dusty tannins interspersed. The acidity is sound. Oddero is an old estate located below the village of La Morra that has been attracting favorable notices of late. This could be due to the fine supervision of Cristina Oddero. Whatever the reason, the wine is certainly a remarkable value. It could probably age for another five years or so.
SWITZERLAND
2007 Dezaley-Marsens, Les Freres Dubois, Cully, Switzerland, $39.99: We’ve been going through this Swiss madness of late. And this might be our maddest moment. But, this could be the finest Chasselas based wine we have ever tasted. The wine has staggering complexity and finesse. There are stone fruits and mineral with whiff of a Lake Geneva breeze. It is as textured as a Swiss Giacometti sculpture, but without the big feet. We only have a few bottles.
ARGENTINA
2007 Bodega Lurton Pinot Gris, Valle de Uco, $10.99/Sale $8.99: If you’re a Pinot Gris/Grigio fan, you gotta taste this. It’s fuller, more satisfying than most of the Italian versions in this price range. It comes from vineyards at 4,000 of elevation, east of the Andes. They say that’s the secret to it all.
2007 Bianchi Malbec, Mendoza $18.99: Here is big time Malbec at not a so big time a price. Bianchi is one of the veterans of the Mendoza Malbec boom, having been founded in 1928. The reason we dub this “big time Malbec” is because of the bounteous pleasures it provides in the glass. First off, it has a pretty violet-red color. Its nose gives plums and black cherries with a light scent of smoke. In the mouth the fruit, tannin, acid, oak and alcohol are in impeccable harmony. It’s a clear step up from the $12 Malbecs and not far behind those costing $50.
SPAIN
2007 Castano Monastrell, Yecla, $9.99/Sale $7.99: “Dios mio,” what a value here. Monastrell is thought to be the grape that the French call Mourvedre. Though there is always some debate floating around about it. This is a wine almost violet in color. It has an intense, fruity nose with carbonic maceration notes. The palate is dense and fruity. So it’s a big red, but made for drinking now. By the way, Yecla is a wine zone in the southeast of Spain. And Castano makes about 80 percent of all the wine produced there. It has been doing so since 1950.
2008 Olivares Rosado, Jumilla, $9.99: Here is one of our nearly daily arriving dry roses from the 2008 vintage (generally you want these wines young). Though it is produced in the hot and dry Jumilla region of southeastern Spain, it comes out in a dry style. The key is the high Hoya de Santa Ana vineyard that perches around 3,000 feet. It is a rich and full bodied rose that could accompany many foods, like poultry on the grill or Spain’s adored “Ibericos” (air dried hams). The grapes are 70 percent Monastrell (which predominates in Jumilla) and 30 percent Syrah.
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Whoa!!! Aged Sauvignon Blanc
1997 Kalin Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Reserve, Potter Valley, $32.99: No, this vintage is not a typo. It really is 1997. Obviously, Kalin doesn’t have to worry about cash flow. The thing to note about this Sauvignon Blanc is that it is made in a “Margaux style,” not the fresh Loire or New Zealand styles of Sauvignon Blanc. So this wine is rich and creamy. It offers “extra-vinous” qualities that defy any description. It really reminds us of a 1989 Chateau Margaux Pavillon Blanc (you don’t want to know the price) we downed a few years ago with a Brittany lobster. If you are devotee of the exotic, run to get this. The supply is minute.
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White Summer Sipper
2007 Claude Val, Vin de Pays d’Oc, $10.99/Sale $9.99: Rather idiosyncratic quaffer from the far south of France. First of all it is made from eight different grape varietals, some of which we haven’t tasted before, like Chasan. But Grenache Blanc is the main constituent. Than we know well. Another slightly idiosyncratic aspect is that the wine is crisp and refreshing, yet it has body weight, i.e., it’s not thin on the palate. It gives you exotic fruits seasoned with acacia honey. Oh Lordy! Savor it solo or with summertime dishes, like chicken off the grill or, perhaps, sautéed wild mushrooms.
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