Newsletter
September, 2007
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TASTING CALENDAR
SERGIO CARLEI TASTING (THE STALLION FROM DOWN UNDER)
September 22, 4:00 - 5:30
One of the greatest characters in the world of wine, Sergio Carlei, will regale us with stories and his delicious wines at the Warehouse on Saturday afternoon, September 22 from 4:00 to 5:30. He makes some of the tastiest Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays to come out of Australia. The Warehouse’s new vamped kitchen staff will provide light tasties to enhance the experience. This will be a casual tasting with Sergio providing insights on his wine. The cost per taster is $25, all inclusive. Call us to reserve your places (475-9700).
NEW ZEALAND BASH AT PLATE WORLD CUISINE
September 18, 6:30 pm
The spanking, new Plate restaurant, up in Briargate, is doing some remarkable things. The food is delicious and the space, just stunning. So let’s have some fresh and delicious New Zealand wine with Plate’s food. We will dine upon shellfish plates, while sipping the zesty 2006 Spinyback Sauvignon Blanc and exotic 2006 Huai Riesling. Of course, there will be "kiwi style" rack of lamb to savor with the silken 2006 Lake Chalice Pinot Noir and 2002 Alpha Domus "Navigator." Wrap-up will be the luscious 2005 ice wine from Selak. With this, chef Ryan Blanchard, will make a "Pavlova" of meringue and fresh fruit. Join us September 18 at 6:30. The tariff is $65, plus service and sales tax. Seats are limited, please call Plate for a slot (475-8000).
KENT ROSENBLUM AT THE WAREHOUSE
October 11th, 6:30 pm
Kent is coming to dinner. He happens to be an old skiing buddy and also one of the most esteemed winemakers in California. In the latest WINE ADVOCATE they pen, "Rosenblum is one of California’s most reliable producers of high quality as well as attractively priced wines." We agree. Kent will host a wine dinner with us in the friendly confines of The Warehouse, on October 11th. Chip Johnson of the Briarhurst has taken over the restaurant and is doing some very nice things. Chip will create a five course dinner to match the Rosenblum wines which won’t be easy, because Kent is going to pour some of his exotics. The show will begin at 6:30. The charge is $75 plus tax and tip. This dinner sold out fast last time, so snag your place "pronto" (475-9700).
A TUSCAN FALL WINEMAKER’S DECADENCE
October 22, 6:30 pm
On Tuesday, October 22, we are awaiting the managing director of the esteemed Tuscan wine estate of San Felice. The stunning estate, with guest accommodations, is near the village of Berardenga, east of Siena. The estate is revered for its Chiantis, particularly the Poggio Rosso (cited above in "New Arrivals"). It also makes a fine "super Tuscan," called Vigorello, Vin Santo and even a Brunello. The wines are remarkable for their balance and polish. So it is no great surprise that we have decided to put together a tasting dinner to try these wines with food. This will take place in the Summit restaurant at the Broadmoor. The dinner will kick-off at 6:30 at the Summit and is limited to 15 participants. The ticket for tasters is $90 (plus service and sales tax). Call soon to reserve your seats (475-9700).
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Wines of the Month
2005 Petit Chablis, La Chablisienne, Regularly $15.99/Sale $14.99: Petit Chablis is wine made from Chardonnay grapes grown anywhere in the Chablis region of Burgundy, not from specified villages or vineyard sites. Much of time it is "caveat emptor" when purchasing these wines. This because the wines tend to be thin and acidic. But this Petit Chablis is a whole different thing. It dances on your tongue gracefully. It is lithe and agreeable. Perhaps it is the superb 2005 vintage that is the key to the wine’s success. Or, maybe the maker, La Chablisienne, should take the credit. It is a grower’s cooperative, representing 250 vineyardists, that also owns some vineyards and has been making rock solid wines since 1923. Nearly one third of all Chablis sold in the world comes from this source. So, it is no great surprise to find such an impressive example of Petit Chablis as this. And check-out the low price.
2004 Silverado Cellars Zinfandel, Napa, $12.99: This wine is so good that it is utterly sick. Sick, in that, how can any mortal make a wine this good for the price? Well, this is made by the world renowned Chateau Montelena (what a surprise). And it is actually made by them, not bottled from bought wine from any place on earth. It gives you an addictive nose of raspberry and spice. In the mouth it is controlled, not oppressively jammy like too many other Zins. Though the alcohol is 14.5 percent, there is not a hot impression. It’s one of those rare wines where, as they say, "one glass invites another." It can joust with the top Zinfandels.
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New Arrivals
FRANCE
2006 Apremont, Jean Perrier et Fils, $12.99: Here’s one you don’t see everyday. We downed a bottle of Apremont in May at Marc Veyrat’s budget priced Michelin three-star (338 Euros for one menu!) on Lac d’Annecy. It certainly was a better deal than the food. Anyway, Apremont is made in the Alps near Lac d’Annecy from a grape called Jaquere. Done right, like this, the wine is refreshing as a glacial stream with essences of stone and citrus. It’s a wine that you can drink copious amounts of by itself because it is not so very alcoholic. At Veyrat’s we drank it with an "omble chevalier" (a trout like fish found in Alpine lakes like Annecy and Lake Geneva) baked in pine bark. What a way to go.
2005 Kuentz-Bas Alsatian White, $12.99: The venerable house of Kuentz-Bas has been creating wine since 1795. When you see a wine bearing this label, you can rarely go wrong. Here they give us a white blended from Alsatian grapes that you don’t see a lot of. These are Sylvaner, Muscat, Auxerrois and Chasselas. What results is a fresh, floral wine with delicate fruit flavors. Drink it solo, as an aperitif, or with delicate dishes. The wine is an absolute delight and, at the price, a steal.
B- Deville-Chevallier Brut Champagne $32.99: A stellar deal in the world of sparkling wine. Over four generations the Deville family has made the beauty from the traditional blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. It’s a delicate Champagne with a entrancing nose of peach, pear and passion fruit. It’s refined without any edges. We like drinking it all alone. We consider it Catherine Deneuve in a bottle. It’s the closest we will get to that blonde.
2005 Chateau Haut Lamouthe, Bergerac, $12.99: Bergerac has given the world more noteworthy things than Cyrano. It gives us great wines like this. Bergerac is, of course, a neighbor of Bordeaux and, so, the wines bear similarities to its more ritzy neighbor. This is composed of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon, like most Bordeaux. The wine is smooth, but well structured. Yes, there is some tannin. This is for people who want robust red wines with some earth to balance the fruit. We think it will age and improve for three or four years. But, try it now with something off the grill or aged cheeses. And, by the way, it’s organic.
USA
2004 The Climber, $15.99: Another blend. This is 59% Syrah blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Syrah. In short, the wine is rich, lush, spicy and smooth, like a Russian woman we know. Difficult not to adore. It’s made by the family who make Clif bars (whatever they are?).
2004 Rosenblum Zinfandel, Snows Lake, $34.99: Wow, Kent Rosenblum sends us to the moon with this wine. Its balance and focus that do it. No blubber on this Zin. It is aged in 60 percent French oak and 40 percent American oak. It’s rich, but elegant. We can only guess that the high percentage of French oak might contribute to this elegance. Come to the winemaker dinner on October 11 and try this and meet Kent as well.
2006 Ca del Solo Muscat, Monterey County, $14.99: The mercurial Randall Grahm is at it again. He has sold his Big House red and white operation for a tidy sum, and is now making just the wines he personally likes. He has told us in the past that he is fascinated by the Muscat grape. With this wine, he provides one of the best California Muscats we have encountered. It has the expected floral nose and harmonious fruit flavors. It’s not quite bone dry, so serve it good and cold. We can’t wait to see what’s next.
2004 Maryhill Winemakers Blend, Columbia Valley, $10.99: The wondrous wines of Washington seem to have no end. The grapes in this blend are Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. As you would anticipate there are elements of smoke and tobacco on the nose. In the mouth, the fruit is not too jolly. Sure, it is a "slugging wine," but with a fascinating twist.
2003 GV Merlot, Money Road Ranch, Napa Valley, $32.99: Unbelievable stuff here. This Merlot has profundity. There is chocolate, earth and other ineffable aspects. It’s kind of like a Pomerol (Bordeaux right bank), where wines like Chateau Petrus come from. Well, perhaps, we are too enthusiastic. Try it and maybe you will make the same hyperboles. Only, 1,481 cases of this were made.
2005 Rosenblum Syrah, Vintners Blend, $10.99: Likely the best California Syrah for its price we have yet taste. There is smoke, spice and all the other things you expect from a Syrah. It is not "over the top" like so many of its Australian counterparts. It’s reminds of us of a French St. Joseph.
SPAIN
2005 Altos de la Hoya Monastrel, Jumilla, $11.99: Almost with weekly regularity a half dozen new Spanish wines are brought for us to taste in consideration of adding to our stock. Felicitously, most of them are pretty good. But we have only so much shelf space, so we are rather picky. There was never any hesitation with this wine. We were instantly taken and ordered it immediately. What we particularly like are the intense, dark fruit flavors which are typical of the Monastrel grape (known as Mourvedre in France and most other places). These grapes need heat to ripen properly and there is plenty of heat in the arid valleys and plateaus of Jumilla. For geography buffs, the Jumilla wine zone is in southernly Spain, southeast of Valencia.
2004 El Arte de Vivir, Ribera del Duero, $12.99: We’ve been trying to figure out "el arte de vivir" (art of living) for years. So far, no luck. The Ribera del Duero appellation was founded in 1982 and quickly become the hottest wine zone in Spain. But, lately, the wines from Priorat, like the Genium (featured in the sale section), have gained the spotlight. In the Duero, Tempranillo (called Tinto Fino) is the king. Here it gives you brilliant garnet color and a nose of mature, red fruits. Oak is hardly perceptible. There is delicious fruit on the palate. Drink it now. Don’t age it. It will show you what Ribera del Duero is about at a most attractive price.
1 + 1 = 3 Brut Cava, Catalunya, Spain, $12.99: Leave it to those "loco" Catalans to come up with a name like this. It comes from the heart of Spain’s sparkling wine industry, 30 miles southwest of Barcelona. It’s dry, clean and a touch earthy which is everything a Cava should be. The characteristic earthiness makes Cavas, like this, excellent mates for food. We could see it with seafood or Mexican dishes like guacamole. This is a clear step- up from Freixnet’s Cordon Negro (the stuff in the black bottle).
2006 Gramona Gessami, $14.99: Another remarkable Catalan product. Gramona is most known for its exceptional cavas, but this is a still white wine. It is an unusual blend of Muscat and Sauvignon Blanc. The result is amazing. You have the floral aspects of the Muscat and the zing of the Sauvignon Blanc. The wine is light, dry and endlessly quaffable.
ITALY
2005 Zuani Collio White, $21.99: This comes from Friulia which is in northeast Italy, south of Austria and west of Slovenia. Many vineyards virtually border Slovenia. The wine is made by Patrizia Felluga, a famous name in the zone. The wine is a blend of Tocai Friulano, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc. It is mid-bodied, dry and extraordinarily elegant. It could be the finest Italian white we’ve tasted this year. It certainly bolsters the argument that Italy’s best white wines are made in Friulia.
2001 Poggio Rosso Chianti Classico Riserva, $58.99: Without a doubt, one of the most spectacular wines we have tasted from the sublime 2001 vintage in Tuscany. The wine has dense garnet color with little or no "bricking" at the edges. The nose projects mature fruits and a hint of spice. On tasting, the wine fills the mouth with rich flavors. For the price, this is one of the world’s finest wines.
2001 Barbaresco Riserva, Montestefano, Produttori de Barbaresco, $47.99: This one is totally "wireless." It’s a single vineyard Barbaresco, made by a cooperative in the village of Barbaresco, about 50 yards from Gaja’s plush set-up. The wine is classic Montestefano Barbaresco with tobacco, "goudron" and exotic balsamic essences. It is one of the few 2001s remaining. With 2002 and 2003 being disasters, it behooves one to snag this and the price ain’t bad either.
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Wine Tasting Class
MEET "THE NUTTY PROFESSOR" AND LEARN HOW TO TASTE WINE
Well, professor Darby Gould is not really nutty, but is a cartoon-like character. For years, he has been lecturing students at UCCS how to enjoy wine. They say it’s one of the most popular courses on campus. Now, he has volunteered to teach our wine loving customers how to get the most enjoyment out of each and every bottle they buy. The class will be on November 6th beginning at 7 p.m. The "classroom" will be the Warehouse Restaurant. The price is $30 all inclusive. To reserve your "desk" call us (475-9700).
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Sale Wines
2004 Benziger Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Valley, Regularly $20.99/Sale $17.99: One of Merv’s finds here at Coaltrain. Boy, he did good. It’s approachable, ready to go, but with a certain brio. There is a whiff of tobacco with the fruit. Try it with grilled meats on a Sunday afternoon atop your deck or patio.
2005 Cocetti Sauvignon Blanc, Napa, Regularly $14.99/Sale $11.99: Who would have ever "thunk" that hot climes of Napa could produce a Sauvignon Blanc that really tastes like Sauvignon Blanc. The winery’s owner/founder, Dave Cocetti, came by the store a couple weeks ago and dazzled us with this wine. It explodes with citrus and melon essences. There is the smallest bump of oak that gives a little roundness. It’s a bit fleshier than New Zealand or French Sauvignon Blancs such as Sancerre, Quincy or Pouilly Fume. And it certainly doesn’t taste like Chardonnay.
2004 Renwood Old Vine Zinfandel, Regularly $17.99/Sale $13.99: A shocker at this low price. The shock is that it’s not all jam. Rather it gives dark fruit and spice. We suspect this to come from the old age of the vines. For those into large formats, we have two 3-liter bottles signed by the winemaker.
2005 Ferrari Carano Chardonnay, Alexander Valley, Regularly $29.99/Sale$24.99: Classic Ferrari Carano Chardonnay…fully bosomed and mouth filling. Blended from 60 individually vinted wines. If you like the rich, old days of California Chardonnay, choose this "hottie."
2002 Krug Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Regularly $24.99/Sale $19.99: It might be hard to believe that this is the oldest winery in Napa Valley, founded by Robert and Peter Mondavi. We’re sure you all know the story of their split. This is a lustrous, mid-sized Cabernet with aromas of cedar and dark, cherry fruit. There is not a thing "over the top." Down it now or over the next five years. We certainly will. This is one of the best values in Cabernets we’ve found in a long time.
2005 Schmitges Riesling, Regularly $16.99/Sale $14.99: This Riesling made by Andreas Schmitges is a wonder. It has all the elements of a Mosel wine that makes for often used descriptor "racy." It’s light and ineffably delicate, yet there lots of flavors…apples, peaches, apricots. The wine literally sparkles on your tongue (but there are no bubbles, of course).
2001 Baron de Ley Rioja Reserva, Regularly $24.99/Sale $20.99: This massive producer, located actually in Navarra, not La Rioja, is capable of some significant wines at reasonable price. This is likely the most significant wine we have tasted from them. The wood (11,500 American and 2,500 French barrels) is perfectly integrated with the red fruits, alcohol and tannins of the wine. It’s a charming wine, near its apogee of pleasure showing mature fruit flavors and tobacco nuances. This demonstrates that not all Spanish wines must be inky, blockbusters.
2004 Genium, Priorat, Regularly $35.99/Sale $29.99: So what is all the hub-bub about Priorat wines from Catalunya, west of Tarragona? Try this one and you will understand. And, believe it, most of its siblings cost a lot more…several are 200 Euros ($275) in the wine zone itself. Priorat was once a wolf infested zone, thus the name of one of its villages, Gratallops (scratching wolves). Now the only infestation is wine nerds like us. Interestingly, if the wines here do not have at least 13.5 percent alcohol, they cannot receive the Priorat appellation. The wine is advised for carnivores and blue cheese addicts, particularly those hooked on cabrales, the pungent cheese from Asturias, Spain.
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