NewsletterJune, 2007
TASTING CALENDAR
WINES FROM THE ROMANTIC CORNERS OF FRANCEJune 26th, 6:00 p.m. We never cease to marvel over the wines pouring out of the romantic corners of France. What makes us marvel is the quality, variety and the crazy, low prices. From the Loire, Rhone, Languedoc, Gascogne, Roussillon, Collioure, Savoie, Provence, they come. You definitely need to know about them and we would be honored to present some of our favorites to you. So, we will have a tasting of these little gems at The Briarhurst, Tuesday June 26th at 6:00 P.M. On the patio, weather permitting, so bring a layer. The cost per taster is $45 plus tax and gratuity. Call soon to reserve your place (475-9700). THE GLORY YEARS OF BAROLO AND BARBARESCO, 1996 TO 2001July 10th, 6 p.m. For Barolo and Barbaresco lovers those were the days…six good to great vintages in succession. People who stocked up on those years were wise, particularly in light of the two weak vintages (2002 and 2003) that have followed. Somehow we snagged more than our share of these beauties from that 1996 to 2001 streak. And now we want to open a few to see how they are developing. We will pour a selection of our all time favorites from the superstar producers on July 10th, beginning at 6 p.m., at La Petite Maison. The ever versatile chef, Henri Chaperont, will prepare toothsome antipasti to showcase the vinous libations. The cost is $85 per taster (plus tax and service). Seating is severely limited so, call us soon to reserve your slot (475-9700). BEER, BREAD, AND CHEESEJuly 25th You may or may not know about all the amazing beers there are in our world these days. We at Coaltrain have more than our fare share and it is time to start tasting these delights. We will be instituting beer tastings at Kinfolks Mountain Shop in Manitou Springs-they have a most eclectic array of beers on tap. The breads and cheeses will come from Wimberger’s Old World Bakery. The beers will range from microbrews to Belgium and gustatory delights will abound. Wednesday, July 25th is the date, call Coaltrain for further details. 475-9700 WINE 101August 15th Professor Darby Gould will be resurrecting his introductory class for the novice wine drinker. You’ll learn what wine is and how it’s made, how to taste wine and what you’ll likely find when you do. Includes discussing and tasting the main wine grapes (varietals) and their differences. Besides information, there will be lots of wine, some bread, cheese, and fruit to go with the wine, and fun! The date is Wednesday, August 15th. The cost will be $30 per person, place to be announced. For your entrée to learning, call 475-9700 Red Wine the Month2004 Villa Spinosa Valpolicella, $11.99: The "three graces" (grape varietals) of Valpolicella are Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. Generally, Corvina is thought to be the prettiest of the three "girls." It provides smoky, red cherry aromas and backbone to the wine. Rondinella contributes softer flavors and ethereal aromas. Molinara is the "plain, sarcastic girl" and used mainly to provide acid (how fitting). Good makers like to keep Molinara out of the blend or add just a small percentage. Villa Spinosa is in the village of Jago, a half-hour by car from Verona. The winery is in a tranquil villa owned by Enrico Cascella Spinosa. Valpolicella can be a varied thing depending if the grapes are dried or the wine re-fermented on the pumice of Amarone wine (made from dried grapes). So, some can be as light as a Beaujolais and others can be darker with Port-like essences. This Valpolicella takes a middle course. Its most notable attributes are the cherry essences in the nose and the palate. All its aspects seem to be in harmony. In ways, it is kind of Pinot Noir-like. In fact, we suggest it to customers in search of that style of wine, without the formidable price fine Pinots command. White Wine of the Month2006 Cesari Duetorri Pinot Grigio, Regularly $10.99, Sale $9.99: Here is a Pinot Grigio that has some kind of crazed intrigue to it. The Cesari winery was founded in 1936 by Gerardo Cesari. Small then, his son Franco expanded the vineyard holdings throughout the Veneto vineyard zones. Thus they make the usual suspects… Valpolicella, Amarone, Soave and this Pinot Grigio. The grapes for this wine are rushed cold from the Alpine slopes and vinified by the most current methods. The idea is to retain the vitality and charm of the wine. If you thought Santa Margharita was the benchmark of fine Italian Pinot Grigio, try this one. It’s half the price. New Arrivals2005 Firriato Grillo, Altavilla della Conte, Regularly $14.99/Sale $12.99: It might surprise many, but more white wine is produced in Sicily than red! This white is made from the Grillo grape, the base grape for Sicily’s renowned Marsala. But it is not similar to Marsala. It is dry, medium bodied and bursting with exotic fruits on a volcanic substructure. The clean flavors are impressive. It comes from a modern winery constructed by two brothers, Girolamo and Salvatore di Gaetano, in 1985. They are in the parade of modernists who are revolutionizing the Sicilian wine landscape. Drink it with all "sicliano" dishes, particularly with Palermo’s "paste con le sarde" (a mixture of sardines, tomatoes, onions, fennel, olive oil pine nuts and currants). If you’re not up to something that exotic, the wine would be pretty darn good with a pizza. "Perche no," white wine with pizza? 2006 Txomin Etxaniz Gatariako Txakolina, $18.99: The owner of this winery, Ernesto Txuka, is a hard guy to figure out. This because he speaks only in Basque, not Spanish. We know only one word in Basque and it shouldn’t be uttered in polite company. We do know that from Txuka’s vineyards, hanging over the ocean, outside the fishing village of Getaria, he makes with no debate the finest Txakolina in Pais Vasco (it is the only one served at Arzak and Martin Berasategui, San Sebastian’s two Michelin three star restaurants). Like the Basques themselves, Txakolina is a mystery wine. It is made from two grapes, white and red (Hondarrabi Zuri and Hondarrabi Beltza). The wine is golden colored with an intense fruit nose showing notes of ripe lemon. In this seafaring area, it enhances most of the sea’s bounty, particularly tuna and "merluza." Txakolina is also poured in every Basque tapa bar, even those in Barcelona, miles away. The American consumer should know that Txakolina is by nature "petulant." If there are no small bubbles it is not good or too old. This one has got the bubbles and wild Basque flavors. 2003 Marques de Vargas Rioja Reserva, $25.99: This maker provided the star of a wine tasting trip through northern Spain ten years ago. We drank it at a restaurant in the Basque village of Oiartzun, where ETA was having a recruiting event for the youth of neighborhood. So we did indeed gulp it down fast (and checked the car battery before turning the ignition). But the wine was stupendous. This bottling is the first we’ve seen from the maker in Colorado. It is dark and flavored with the smooth, mature fruit flavors that the grand Tempranillo grape can give at its finest moments. The oak aging is particularly interesting because American, French and Russian barrels are use. This provides an arresting complexity to the nose. 2005 TV Celadon Grenache Blanc, Clarksburg, $22.99: Reminiscent of a great White Rhone wine. Very rich and full on the pallet with the aromas of Spring and fresh peaches. A lovely dry and supple wine. Only 244 cases were made. Don’t miss this unusual, and delicious, California wine. 2004 Callejo Ribera del Duero, $26.99: As most know, 2004 was a superb vintage for red wines in most every corner of that crazy country known as "Espana." This is certainly one of the leaders of the pack from the dusty, dry area of north central Spain, east of Valladolid. This "vino sabroso" comes from 35 year old vines which give it depth. But it offers vibrant fruit as well. The balance in this "package" is beyond modest description…simply mind-boggling. It is the first wine we have presented from Felix Callejo and we are proud of the opportunity. 2005 Domaine Cordier Macon-Villages, Bois d’Allier, $24.99: "Mon dieu!" And this is Cordier’s "entry level" wine. We were mortally slain by the multi-layered mouthfeel of apple, citrus and mineral. And that’s just part of it all. Christophe Cordier is one of Burgundy’s new super-stars. He performs his magic in the village of Fuisse. He sources his grapes from only the top vineyard sites. And this certainly shows in the wines. By the way, he ferments all his wine in wood, which seems to optimize the flavor integration. THIS WINE IS FINER THAN MANY A MEURSAULT AND MONTRACHET, COSTING TWO TIMES THE PRICE! 2004 Juliette Avril Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Regularly $35.99/Sale $29.99: Here the daughter of the renowned winemaker, Paul Avril, astounds us. From the sublime vintage of 2004 she has given us a Chateauneuf that is delightful to drink without needing several years of aging. We might call it a sexy wine with a shimmering garnet color, carnal perfumed aromas and a tease of tannin on the finish. It is largely made from Grenache which gives a coupling of red and dark fruits on the palate. Juliette expressed her femininity in a lovely manner with this bottling. 2003 Benjamin de Vieux Chateau Gaubert, Graves, $21.99: Golly, what a value here for this is a most serious wine. From Graves, you can taste something "gravelly" (or are we just hallucinating again). The blend is 65 percent Merlot and 35 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. This is somewhat surprising because there is little of what we attribute in America to Merlot. The oak curing is exact with 25 percent of the barrels being new and the duration of aging one year. Well, just try this, it’s "formidable." 2004 Tolosa Syrah, Edna Valley, Regularly $21.99/Sale $19.99: The Tolosa vineyards are located at the southern end of San Luis Obispo in the Edna Valley, a short distance from the Pacific Ocean. The ocean breezes blow west to east through the valley creating a cooler growing region and a long growing season. That may explain why this syrah is elegant with more subtlety of flavors than syrahs grown in hotter climate which are often ultra extracted and jammy. There are aspects of white pepper, spice, blackberry and mocha in the bouquet. Overall, this is a well-balanced, complex syrah which drinks well right now. 2005 Annabella Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $13.99: This is a find, a Napa Cabernet true to character for under $20.00. It is not designed for aging, but is a well-balanced wine with substantial heft for this price range. Try this now and then stock up, so you won’t have to say, "I had this when it was $13.99, those were the days." 2004 Knipser Blauer Spatburgunder, Pfalz, Regularly $26.99/Sale $23.99: Werner and Volker Knipser are absolutely sick. They make the greatest German wines from un-Germanic varietals that anyone could ever imagine (they also get the Eichelmann’s guide to German wines, which could be the most honest wine guide out there, highest rating). They make wines out of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon. Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. They also make wines out of more usual German varietals like Riesling and Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir). This Spatburgunder is remarkably urbane, fresh and delicious. WE THINK IT THE TOP VALUE IN PINOT NOIR ON COALTRAIN’S SHELVES. 2005 Domaine l’ Estagnol Safran, $13.99: From the Cotes du Ventoux appellation of the southern Rhone valley, comes this delightful blend of 60% Carignane, 20% Grenache and 20% Syrah. Laurent Favier, the owner and winemaker of Domaine l’ Estagnol, is the third generation of his family to be working these 40 to 80 year old vines. His wine is supple and smooth, well balanced with black cherry, plum and spice in the flavors. A perfect summer wine with grilled lamb chops or pork with a cherry glaze. Wasserman Selection BurgundiesRecently, we had the occasion to taste the wines of this fine Burgundy exporter. "Wow" was our unanimous response. In the 1970’s, Becky Wasserman was the first woman to export wines from Burgundy. Her reputation is stellar. For you old timers, Terry Tindall imported these treasures to us. Her son, Peter, represents the enterprise state side now. The palates of these two are impeccable. What they bring us are wines of intensity and finesse-what I trust Burgundies will always be. For a true Pinot Noir experience unmatched by any, we selected the following for you: 2004 Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru "La Genelotte", Domaine Martelet de Cherisey, $56.99: Lush fruit with a mineral edge that keeps it all in wizardly. It comes from a vineyard on a limestone bench between Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. 2004 Volnay "Vendanges Selectionnees", Michel Lafarge, $51.99: From our favorite Volnay maker. It wins us (and you too, hopefully) with its cherry aromatics and sateen tannins. 2004 Vosne Romanee, Dominique Mugneret, $38.99: An absolute steal. All black cherries and oriental spice with a sustained finish. We can’t understand why it’s so reasonably priced. We’re not complaining. 2004 Gevrey-Chambertin, "Mes Favorites v.v.", Alain Burguet, $64.99: This wine is on a lot of Michelin three star restaurant wine lists in France. It approaches or equals the quality of many Grand Cru Gevreys. It has an impressive translucency and comes from vines 45 to 105 years old giving it remarkable depth of flavor. La Vie En RoseSpring weather makes us chirp like Edith Piaf. One of the many reasons for this is that it becomes rosé wine season. We find few things more enjoyable than killing a spring afternoon outdoors with a cool, dry rosé. Yeah, watch the dog unsuccessfully chase squirrels, listen to the birds twitter and drink rosé. What could be more reenergizing? Normally, we like our rosés as young as possible. Meaning now it would be 2006. However, since 2005 was such a good year in Europe, many from that vintage are still tasting beautifully. So, we’re keeping the best around. Here are some we have now. More are coming. 2006 Gunter Triebaumer Blaufrankish Rose, Austria, $12.99: Don’t let the name get you down here. This is a delicious rose with strawberry and watermelon essences. It’s not bone dry, but it isn’t sweet. It’s made for the deck and irresponsible consumption levels. 2006 Domaine Sainte-Eugenie Rosé, Corbieres, $10.99: We tasted this the day it was bottled in France. It’s light, agile and refreshing with strawberry notes. Could become our favorite of the vintage. 2006 Domaine de Beausejour Chinon Rosé, $17.99: Quite a character. It comes from the Loire River valley of France and is made from Cabernet Franc grapes. It has that ineffable Cabernet Franc nose with tasty red fruits from attack to finish. 2005 Lafond Tavel Rosé, $13.99: Color isn’t everything, but this one is just glorious. Now, that wouldn’t mean anything if the wine were not worthy. It is worthy, and crisp with body and flavor. Picture yourself at an outdoor café in Provence sipping away. What a lovely day! 2006 Chateau Miraval Rosé, Cotes de Provence, $14.99: Simply the finest rosé we have in the store. It’s light, but so complex. A true wonderment. California Cote-Rotie2001 Austin Hope Syrah, Paso Robles, Regularly $35.99/$27.99: We would defy anyone to pick this out as a California Syrah in a blind tasting. It has all the markings of extremely fine Cote Rotie, that queen of Syrah from the north Rhone, above the village of Ampuis. It has the classic smoky nose that is coy and tantalizing. The flavors are again classic with blackberry and blueberry notes backed by soft tannins that provide length. There is elegance here, not in the least brazen like many products from Australia known as Shiraz (what the Aussies use to designate Syrah). The price is fine too. We think it could joust with a lot of Cote Roties at twice the price. Wow! What a ZIn!2005 August Briggs Zinfandel, $33.99: August "Joe" Briggs is the owner and winemaker of this small family owned winery located near the town of Calistoga in Northern Napa Valley. This zin is a blend of the two vineyards, the Lauisi Vineyard planted in 1908 and the Frediani Vineyard, planted in the 1940’s. Both vineyards are dry-farmed, thus yielding small, concentrated crops (less than two tons per acre). Only 750 cases were produced. The wine, however, is not a huge extracted style. Instead, it is elegant and expressive with a classic Zin nose and well blended blackberry, plum and mocha flavors. Most Zins are aged in 100% American Oak but 65% of this Zin was aged in two to three year old French oak, which certainly contributes to its stylish character. Very impressive. Colorado Rock StarLittle did John Sutcliffe know that after he moved from England to Carbondale to work as a cowboy, he would one day be a wine producer. Today, John lives near Cortez, in the rocks amid Anazazi cliff dwellings and petroglyphs, and he makes wine in the McElmo Canyon, next to the Ute and Navajo Reservations. He has hired Ben Parsons, another Brit, to make the wines. Ben studied winemaking in Australia, and in some ways these wines have a bit of an Australian personality. They are big wines with lots of flavor. We’d go so far as to say that these Sutcliffe Vineyard wines are the best group of Colorado wines we have tasted yet. They push the state into the group of fine emerging wine zones like Oregon, Washington and Virginia (if other Colorado winemakers embrace their mindset). Here’s what we have in stock. 2006 Sutcliffe Vineyards Gewurztraminer, $21.99: A nose of spice, flowers and cloves. These continue into the flavors. The perfect acidity closes the deal agreeably. Most impressive. Try it with Asian or Mexican food. 2006 Sutcliffe Vineyards Riesling, $21.99: This could come right out of Australia’s Clare Valley, renowned for Rieslings. It has that power, but it is so pure and exact too. There are melons, yellow plums and bracing citrus flavors. Though not "racy" like a German Riesling, it is lively. Again Asian foods or pork dishes might be its perfect mate. 2005 Sutcliffe Vineyards Petit Verdot, $24.99: Petit Verdot is often not so "Petit." Normally, they are priapic purple in color and fleshy in the mouth. This too is a fat boy, but a good boy. A gentleman, not a rapscallion. They certainly have the oak under control here. And it doesn’t come off as overly tannic, particularly if you accompany it with big food, like grilled meats, game, blue cheeses, etc. Yummy. |
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COALTRAIN
Wine & Spirits
330 W. Uintah
Colorado Springs, CO 80905
719-475-9700