Newsletter
December, 2006
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Please Note: Christmas falls on a Monday this year so the last day we can be open to fill your wine rack will be Saturday, December 23rd.
THE SCOOP
Coaltrain’s Infamous Annual Christmas Wine Sale 2006
As you all know, we taste lots of wine every year. And, believe us, it’s not always pleasurable. But there are moments of delight. So, each year we attempt to distribute some of this delight to our ever loyal customers with a wine sale. This sale includes some of the best wines we’ve tasted in the year (not castoffs like some other people do) and we try to sell them at the lowest prices possible. Please check-out the line-up. While the stocks for many are good, we have only micro-amounts of some. So, shopping early might be a good plan to assure availability of the bottles you’re after. We hope to see you soon and we hope your holidays are absolutely merry.
WINE SPECTATOR’S NUMBER ONE WINE OF 2006
2001 Casanova di Neri Brunello, Tenuta Nuova, $79.99: We remember Giacomo Neri when he was a young man, in his early twenties. He had just taken over the winery from his father who had recently fallen off a ladder perched against a fermentation tank. We went with him and his mother through the cantina, to each "botti" (barrel), tasting different vintages and vineyard sites. Casually, I asked him if he was married. His mother sternly interjected, "Oh, wine must be Giacomo’s only wife." We don’t know if this is still true, for Giacomo is in his forties now. We do know with this wine he has produced one of the finest Brunellos of his life…a wine of intensity, complexity and balance with superb aging potential. It’s funny because this is just the wine he said he hoped to make back in the early ‘80s when he was looking for a wife. Congratulations to Giacomo, with this wine, he won’t need a divorce attorney. 97 Points as well as the Top Wine of the Year from the Spectator!!!
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DESSERT WINES
1994 Dow’s Vintage Port, Regularly $96.99/Sale $79.99: A big boy even for a vintage Port. This wine, from Portugal’s splendid and geologically unique Douro River Valley, is practically black in color. Rich flavors with loads of dark fruits and tannin. Made for the duration, but with twelve year’s under its belt, it could be time to pop a bottle. 97 Points from the Wine Spectator!
2003 Chateau Soucherie, Coteaux du Layon 1er Cru, Regularly $29.99: You certainly don’t see this appellation (Coteaux du Layon) every day in the U.S. or in France. It’s from the Loire River Valley and is made from Chenin Blanc. Though sweet, it is not oppressively so. Try it with fruit tarts and maybe, even, some aged goat cheeses. We’d like to pair this sensual wine with many different things. We’ll leave it at that.
Blandys 5 year old Malmsey Madeira, Regularly $22.99/Sale $19.99: A smoky, nutty dessert wine from those mystical Portugal islands so far out in the Atlantic that you can’t swim there. Serve it with caramelized desserts or just some strong coffee on a cold winter’s night. The joy of Madeira is that it is already oxidized so you can keep it for months after you’ve opened it.
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SPARKLING WINES
Cremant d’Alsace, Allimant-Laugner, $19.99: This suave sparkler from Alsace has quickly collected an enthusiastic following. The reason…it’s simply delicious. Made entirely of Pinot Noir, it has a rose color. It’s dry, but tastes soft because the acid isn’t as "bitey" as in most "real Champagnes." Though you might want some bite for oysters, sushi, etc., this Cremant d’Alsace is fit more for solo drinking, as an aperitif or toasting a holiday. It’s a sparkling wine we’d be delighted to drink from morning to night.
NV Gaston Chiquet Cuvee de Reserve Brut, $45.99: Now, here is something different in real Champagne. It’s composed of two different vintages 1995 and 1996. Thus you get a Champagne that is richer, nuttier and earthier than the normal young Champagne. This is the way English people like their bubbly. It is dry and intense with all sorts of nooks and crannies for the senses to rejoice in. It is indeed a meal in a crystal flute.
Duval-Leroy Brut Champagne, Regularly $19.99/Sale $17.99 (375 ml.): If you want some really high class Champagne and can’t down a full bottle, this is it. It has a bewitching nose of yeast and bread dough. The bubbles are lingerie-like, providing a silken mousse. Oh yeah…this was #41 in the Wine Spectator’s Top 100 scoring 93 Points.
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Christmas Sale Wines
AMERICAN WINES
2001 Judd’s Hill Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, Regularly $35.99/Sale $30.99: Don’t fret, there are still some of the extraordinary 2001 Napa Cabernets around. Here, for example. It comes from hillside fruit, in contrast to valley floor fruit, so it’s not over-extracted or sappy. Cedar and tobacco nuances meld with the soft cassis and chocolate flavors resulting in a complex wine that is drinking very nicely now. 93 Points from the Wine Enthusiast!
2002 Clark-Claudon Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, Regularly $89.99/Sale $73.99: What a sensual mouthfeel! Seamless and velveteen (velvet handcuffs ?) might be used as descriptors. It shows you what ripe, black fruit and violets a mountainside vineyard from Napa can give you. The gifted enologist is Gary Brookman who also works with Miner and Grace Family. If you want a value in an elite echelon Napa Valley Cabernet, this is about as good as you can do. It really is power, grace and sophistication in your glass.
2002 Martin Ray Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, Mendocino, Santa Clara Counties, Regularly $21.99/Sale $16.99: The outstanding 2002 California Cabernets are disappearing rapidly. So, we’re very happy to have this one. It has depth of flavor and soft tannins. It’s the depth we like. An extraordinary value.
2002 Clos Pegase Merlot, Carneros, Regularly$21.99/Sale $15.99: This is more reminiscent of a Super Tuscan than a typical California Merlot with its raisin/leather bouquet and lush dark fruit flavors. This is a 2002 which is a great vintage, so buy it while you can.
2005 Bourassa Vineyards Chardonnay, Los Carneros, Napa, Regularly $29.99/Sale $25.99: Another Californian using the delicacy of French oak and a lighter hand to achieve a refreshing synergy that allows the Chardonnay to show its charm and complexity.
2005 Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, Regularly $24.99/Sale $21.99: A debonair wine. Not over the top. There is some notable minerality coming from the Franciscan Melange soils (our favorite) and a nice touch of oak. This shows like a costly Chardonnay. Balance baby!
2005 Chehalem Inox Chardonnay, Willamette Valley, Oregon, Regularly $18.99/Sale $16.99: Pure, unadulterated Chardonnay, i.e., no oak, thus the term "inox" which refers to the stainless steel vats in which this is made. The wine has vigor and zest. It would be the top with oysters and similar fare.
2004 Martin Ray Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Regularly $21.99/$16.99: A beautiful "Smart Buy" from the WINE SPECTATOR, receiving 90 Points. It’s not in a creamy style, but exudes elegance in every drop. We agree with the WINE SPECTATOR on this one!
2003 Whitehall Lane Merlot, Napa, Regularly $24.99/Sale $21.99: Outside the Merlot bun. That is, not jammy fruit. It gives dry fruit flavors with spice, chocolate and all things nice. Though we are not immense Merlot buffs, we could get crazy about this.
2005 Qupe Bien Nacido Cuvee, Regularly $19.99/Sale $17.99: Pure exotica. It tastes like some succulent morsel off the Rhone River, maybe sipped at the restaurant Les Cedres in Tain. Therefore it tastes like a white Hermitage or a Condrieu. The blend is 50/50 Chardonnay and Viognier. WINE & SPIRITS scored this 93.
2004 Chehalem 3 Vineyards Pinot Noir, Regularly $29.99/Sale $26.99: Henry Nedry Peterson is a great guy and a great winemaker. Here he gives a blend of three vineyards that is richer and darker than the norm from the Willamette Valley. But it’s not in the least overblown. Balance baby, balance!
2005 Zaca Mesa Viognier, Santa Ynez Valley, Regularly $16.99/Sale $15.99: Generally, we have some doubts about Viognier not from the Condrieu zone of the north Rhone. The doubts derive from lack of acidity. No doubts here, this has acid and the peach/apricot/coconut essences we so love in Condrieu.
2002 Renwood Old Vine Zinfandel, $Regularly $16.99/Sale $13.99: Old vines give wines depth and intensity which is very apparent in this ripe, richly flavored zinfandel. It would do well with grilled steak, burgers, or spicy barbecued ribs.
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SPANISH WINES
2005 Castano Monastrell, Regularly $9.99/Sale $8.99: Get this wine. It is lovely from its rich crimson color to its long, intense finish. It comes from the Yecla region of Spain, if that means anything to someone. The grape is Monastrell, a.k.a. Mourvedre in France and the rest of the wine world. It has bags of fruit, but has some tannins to make it all jive. A supreme value.
2001 Solabal Rioja Reserva, Regularly $24.99/Sale $22.49: "Un vaso de bien" Rioja. Yet it’s modestly international with a round, creamy texture and the spicy, cherry Tempranillo flavors that makes us believe we can speak Spanish. "Nos gusta." Those of you who liked the Muga we featured last year will adore this wine.
FRENCH WINES
2003 Verget Bourgogne Blanc, Grand Elevage, Regularly $21.99/Sale $19.99: This winemaker really shook up Burgundy a decade or so ago. Much of the shaking was from viticultural techniques…lower grape production and select vineyard sites. From the 2003 vintage when it was difficult to maintain acidity, this bombshell has no problems because of these viticultural techniques. It’s full in flavor, yet subtle. A superb example of what the Chardonnay grape can do.
2005 Chateau Haut Belian, Entre deux Mers, Regularly $9.99/Sale $8.49: Not your mindless white Bordeaux. There is lemon drop, fig, dirt and other lovely things. The blend is 50 percent Sauvignon Blanc, 30 percent Semillon and 20 percent Muscadelle (most often seen in Bordeaux). Not dazzling, but most agreeable, particularly for the price.
2004 Domaine de Nizas Carignan, Vins de Pays de Caux, Regularly $9.99/Sale $8.99: A French winemaker once told us that Carignan was a "putain" (whore) of a grape. Indeed, it has a tendency for over-production. But, if you control that penchant for promiscuity, Carignan can give a delicious wine, fat and sappy, not sassy. The priapic purple color here is most invigorating. Those of you who so enjoyed our Portrait of a Mutt California red, might recall that a dollop of Carignan provided substance to the wine that was otherwise a fruity Zinfandel. This Domaine de Nizas is a rock hard holiday red.
2004 Rapet Bourgogne Rouge, En Bully, Regularly $21.99/Sale $18.99: Yes, our most popular "red wine of the month" last summer. We were able to find more and offer it again. You may recall that it’s a stylish, elegant Pinot Noir. It’s smooth and a joy to drink. With poultry dishes like duck and turkey it would be ideal. Baked salmon would be another nice pairing, though it might not have the body weight for grilled salmon. Drinking alone isn’t a bad option either.
2004 Marc Morey Rully, Regularly $25.99/Sale $19.99: Marc Morey is one of the most lauded names in Burgundy. With this Chardonnay from the Chalon region of Burgundy. he keeps his reputation intact. It’s bone dry with a key lime mid-palate. The supply is small.
2004 Jean-Bapiste Adam Pinot Blanc, Alsace Regularly $15.99/Sale $14.99: What an "intro" to the marvels of Alsace. It’s not too unctuous or thin. It has a loveable roundness with tropical fruit notes. Perfect for "wurst" or poultry.
2000 Chateau Gadet Terrefort, Medoc, Regularly $15.99/Sale $13.99: It amazes us that there are still some wines left from the stellar 2000 Bordeaux vintage. And at this price, golly? The fruit in this little Medoc is showing well and the tannins are soft…a great wine to open up tonight.
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ITALIAN WINES
2003 Maculan Brentino Rosso, Regularly $18.99/Sale $16.99: A handsome Bordeaux blend of Merlot (55 percent) and Cabernet (45 percent) from Italy’s Veneto, not far distant from Venice. The wine is succulent, but with substance. There is chocolate-cherry, some herb and earth. Though substantial, it’s ready to drink now. A nice match for a rare steak or grilled lamb chop.
2000 Batasiolo Barbaresco, Regularly $44.99/Sale $39.99: In an ordinary year, this would be considered a phenomenal effort. But, 2000 was such an extraordinary year for Barbaresco (better than for Barolo) that this one has kind of been lost in all the glitter shining from its peers. It gives the feminine, dried rose aspects of Barbaresco with an assertive side. We’re kind of surprised that we still have this wine. But we have very little. Drinking "marvelous" now.
2001 Mauro Barero More, Piemonte, Regularly $16.99/$Sale $14.99: You might call this our "lingering wine of the month." But, really, we just made it "wine of the month" a couple weeks ago. Thus, we still have a formidable amount, and that is good. It’s a blend of Cabernet and Barbera from the Roero zone of Piemonte. This means across the Tenaro River from Barbaresco, cited in the wine above. It’s an interesting wine in that the Cabernet fills out the hollow spots normally intrinsic to Barberas from that region of Piemonte. Well, just try it. You’ll love it.
1998 Giovanni Manzoni Barolo, La Gramolere, Regularly $42.99/Sale $39.99: Yet another wine from this month’s newsletter that is still around. Again, it’s surprising to us because the wine is so good. As we wrote, it’s a quaffing Barolo with cherry fruit and soft tannins. It’s a pretty wine at a pretty price (Barolo doesn’t come cheap). Warning, not much remains.
2005 Elio Grasso Langhe Nebbiolo, Gavarini, Regularly $17.99/Sale $15.99: Gian Luca Grasso has really hit his groove. Everything from this winery (named for his father, Elio) over the last three years is simply marvelous. With this Nebbiolo, he gives us what is essentially a "baby Barolo." As such, the flavors are soft and silky. There are violets in the nose, raspberries and cherries on the tongue. And, when you buy from the Grassos, you are buying from really "good people."
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AUSTRALIAN WINES
2005 Mitolo G.A.M. McClaren Vale Shiraz, Regularly $44.99/Sale $39.99: A bad boy. Strutting with a purple hue and blackberry, pepper, licorice, toast aromas. Rich, full-bodied with excellent purity of blueberry and blckberry fruit. Ever young, at least for ten years. 95 Points from Robert Parker.
2002 Turners Crossing Cabernet Sauvignon, Bendigo, Regularly $22.99/Sale $19.99: The prodigy of Australian wine makers and our favorite Italian-Aussie, Sergio Carlei makes this 100% Cabernet with the obvious fruit of Australia but the style of the old world. Thus he creates a Cab of force with finesse. Balance is the key. They keep telling me this.
2001 Carlei Estate Tre Rossi, Regularly $29.99/Sale $26.99: The three reds (tre rossi) are all Shiraz, but from different vineyards. The achievement is the multiplicity of flavors that we get from our favorite blends, but from one grape variety. This is a Carlei, and that means nuances as well as intensity.
2004 d’Arenberg The Love Grass Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Regularly $16.99/ Sale $14.99: If you might wonder, "Love Grass" is a long stemmed flower that attaches itself to the vineyard workers’ socks. It’s a red fruit Shiraz, i.e., cherries and strawberries. Juicy and delicious. Definitely not the over-the-top, in your face of Aussie Shiraz.
2002 Penfolds Cabernet/Shiraz 389,Australia, Regularly $23.99/$19.99: A good value from Penfolds with its peppery, slightly earthy, black cherry fruit and herb and spice box bouquet. It is medium-bodied with a soft, almost velvety finish. The Wine Spectator awarded it 89 points.
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NEW ZEALAND WINES
2005 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, Regularly $15.99/Sale $13.99: Zippy, zingy citrus notes. The 2006 vintage was #40 in our beloved WINE SPECTATOR’S list of the best of 2006. It’s not available but this vintage is and 2005 was an awesome vintage for New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. So, try this one …it’s terrific.
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ARGENTINIAN WINES
2004 Broquel Malbec, Regularly $13.99/Sale $12.99: Dry, dusty Mendoza Province in the shadow of ever gloomy Aconcagua. Irrigation is everything here. It works, giving us a wine with dark fruit and concentration. Perfect for an Argentine "parilla." The lush fruit of Malbec seduces many of our customers. If you haven’t tried one, take a virgin voyage.
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GERMAN WINES
2005 Von Schubert Maximin Grunhaus Abtsberg Riesling Spatlese, Regularly $28.99/Sale $24.99: An utter amazement. The purity of the Riesling fruit makes us gush so. It has minerality and acute acidity which are hallmarks of Von Schubert wines. One of the most impressive German wines we have tasted from this great vintage.
2005 Leitz Rudesheimer Magdalenenkreuz Spatlese, Regularly $18.99/Sale $16.99: Like above, from the rare 2005 vintage (vintages of this quality in Germany come only two or three times in one’s lifetime). It’s an exceptional wine of formidable concentration. But the acidity is up to it and balances it all. From the Rheingau where Leitz virtually is the "Kaiser."
2004 Knipser Blauer Spatburgunder, Pfalz, Regularly $25.99/Sale $22.99: "Mensch," Germany can make delicious Pinot Noir. This is it. It’s soft with intricate flavors. Cherry and berry. In the world of tasty Pinots this is a remarkable value. And it’s as sexy as a German can be.
2005 Strub Niersteiner Riesling Kabinet, Regularly $13.99/Sale $12.49 (1 liter): The revered German guru, Terry Theise, found this resting in a single tank at the Strub estate that he calls "amazingly good." "Ja," the wine is an amazement of clarity, focus, fruit, minerality and twist of spice. There is a brisk, inspiring finish. Check it out before we drink it all… it’s a steal!
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Meet "Our" Winemaker!
Many of you may remember the young blonde woman, Amy Lillard, who started her wine career with us about ten years ago. Amy had a real passion for wine and after working at Coaltrain for several years, she moved to San Francisco to work for the notable wine importer and retailer, Kermit Lynch. From there Amy moved to France where she spent three years living and working in the vineyards of Gevrey-Chambertin. Now Amy has reached her dream. She and her husband, Matt Kling, started a winery in the southern Rhone Valley and have just released their first wine…2005 Domaine de La Gramiere Cotes du Rhone. Her former boss, Kermit Lynch, gave the wine high accolades and is importing it for her. If you would like to meet Amy and Matt, come by Coaltrain Thursday, December 21. They will be here from 4-7p.m. We have their wine available for sale at $17.99 per bottle.
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SIMPLY THE FINEST
We have a good selection of allocated and older vintage wines in our cellar, particularly cabernets and cabernet blends. Let us know if you’re interested in seeing the list.
2001 Valdicava Brunello, $112.99: Another blockbuster from the superb 2001 harvest in Montalcino. Elegant with exquisite style and an awesome finish. THE WINE SPECTATOR awarded it a measly 98 points and so do we.
2001 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva, Rabaja, $209.99: One of the most complex, intriguing Barbarescos we’ve ever tasted and we tasted it with Bruno, what a character. Parker agreed, giving it 95.
1999 Domaine Monpertuis Chateauneuf du Pape, Tradition, $59.99: If you wonder what a Chateauneuf with age, at the top of its game, tastes like, get this. A bit of an amazement.
2001 Penfolds Grange, $229.99: One of the holy icons of the world’s elite wines. Max Schubert started it all many years ago. It’s something of a monster that needs taming in your mouth or cellar. It’s one of the few Granges that are 100 percent Shiraz. Parker kindly gave it 98+.
2006 Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, $19.99: This ain’t no "dog." Actually, it could rival the best Sauvignon Blancs of the world. It has style. Made by the winemaker and vineyard manager who sent Cloudy Bay to prominence.
2002 Carlei Estate Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, $32.99: Not quite the Boardwalk Elite of the rest in this category, but definitely of true breed. This is what pinot noir can offer when handled with the knowledge of it’s past and respect for it’s delicacies. The depth of flavors must be pursued rather than having them whack you. The rewards are well worth it.
2005 Ben Glaetzer Amon Ra Shiraz, Barossa Valley, $74.99: From dry farmed 100 year old vines comes this intensly flavored, full bodied, complex shiraz.It unfolds beautifully on the palate with flavors of black raspberries, licorice, and crème de cassis framed in sweet oak. Hard to find, but worth it. Rober Parker loves this wine and gave it 98 points!..We agree that it is very impressive. There is an amazing accessibility to the wine now, but it will certainly age well, if you can resist it, for ten to fifteen years.
2005 Hubert Brochard Sancerre, $24.99: It’s hard to imagine a Sauvignon Blanc more satisfying than this. It has exact balance and lusciousness that is indicative of the sublime 2005 vintage in the Loire River Valley. Gold medal winner.
2003 Chateau Brainaire Ducru, St. Julian, $54.99: Significant purity of fruit with a texture that is supple and smooth. The fruit is 70 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 30 percent Merlot. 97 WINE SPECTATOR and 96 from Robert Parker.
2003 Chateau Giscours, Margaux, $59.99: Totally different from the above Brainaire Ducru. This offers leather and earth, rather than pure fruit notes. So, traditional Bordeaux fanatics might opt for this beauty. 91 points, The Wine Spectator.
2003 Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac, $178.99: Very seductive, absolutely beautiful wine with black cherry and currant fruit, and hints of chocolate. The lower level of acidity found in this vintage makes this appealing wine drink remarkably well now. Treat yourself! Don’t worry, it will also age well over the next decade. 95 Points from Parker, 93 Points from the Spectator.
2004 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir, Rancho Ontiveros Vineyard, $46.99: This is one of ten different Pinots made by Brian and Kim Loring in 2004. And these ten come from some of the best Pinot vineyards in California. This baby is ripe and intense, but with style.
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DON’T FORGET THE BEER
Winter Warmer Beer Sampler
6 pack/ $7.79—(One bottle of each)
Never Summer Ale — Boulder Beer Co., Boulder, CO—Deep ruby red, assertively hopped, brewed with dark caramel malt.
Winter Ale — Summit Brewing Co., St Paul, MN—Brewed with caramel and black malts. Robust and full-bodied.
Frambozen — New Belgium Brewing Co., Ft. Collins, CO— This brown ale, brewed with real raspberries, achieves a fine balance between fruit and malt.
Our Special Ale 2006 — Anchor Brewing Co., San Francisco, CA—The 32nd vintage of the original Christmas ale. Big, malty, spicy, excellent.
Winter Lager — The Boston Beer Co., Boston, MA—Deep brown ale brewed with roasted malt, orange peel, and spices.
Christmas Ale — Breckenridge Brewery, Denver, CO—This holiday seasonal is the fermented equivalent of a good fire.
Other Feature Beers:
Noël Christmas Ale—Affligem Brewery, Opwijk, Belgium —At 9.0% alc. by volume, this Belgium strong dark ale will certainly warm you up. The spices are subtle and well balanced. Enjoy it at cellar temp. (45-50ºF), in order to bring out all the complex flavors. This beer is great with barbeque, grilled meat, and sharp and pungent cheeses.
Czar Imperial Stout—Avery Brewing Co., Boulder, CO—This Russian Imperial Stout is impressive from the first pour. Black, viscous liquid topped with mocha colored foam. The rich flavors of chocolate and coffee, as well as the 11.04% alc. by volume, allow this beer to stand alone as dessert. Serve slightly chilled (50-55ºF).
Cerveza Negra—Jerome Brewing Co., Mendoza, Argentina— A unique beer out of South America. Landing somewhere in between a porter and a stout, it is pitch black in color with rich chocolate flavors. Enjoy this beer at cellar temperature (45-50ºF).
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