NewsletterNovember, 2006
Tasting CalendarA three business day cancellation policy is in effect for all tastings. 2003 BORDEAUX EXTRAVAGANZA WITH A MASTER SOMMELIERNovember 15TH, 6 to 8 P.M. at The Briarhurst Manor As we have noted in the Bordeaux feature in this newsletter, the 2003 vintage is the best tasting and highest quality young vintage of Bordeaux since 1982. So, we thought we should give you an opportunity to taste these delicious, expressive wines under the guidance of Jay Fletcher, a very insightful and entertaining Master Sommelier from Denver. 2003 was a highly rated vintage (WS 95/94) and the prices are a bargain especially when compared to the futures prices of the 2005s, which in many cases are 40%-80% higher than the ‘ 03s. Come see for yourself how remarkably well these wines show right now. We will be pouring all the wines listed in our Bordeaux feature except the Mouton- Rothschild. The wines will be accompanied by two sampling plates to amuse the bouche. The price is $70/person. Seating is limited. Reserve a spot by calling us at 475-9700.
BEST OF THE BEST DINNER AT LA PETITE MAISONDecember 1ST , 7 P.M. How would you like to drink the best wines we’ve tasted this year? Better yet, how would you like to taste them with a five-course meal at the best French restaurant in Colorado Springs (Independent Newspaper)? You can do just that on the evening of December 1st. Then, La Petite’s wizardly chef, Henri Chaperont, will perform his culinary magic and we will pull the corks. Each of the courses will be paired with special wines. There will be Champagne, Burgundies, Barolos, German Ice Wine and more. Golly, we’re salivating already. We think you will be too when you are seated at the gourmandizer’s table. The charge per diner is $120 (plus service and sales tax). For reservations or questions call us at Coaltrain (475-9700). To ensure the highest quality, we must limit the dinner to 20 people. We can hardly wait.
COALTRAIN’S ALMOST FAMOUS ANNUAL CHRISTMAS WINE SALEDECEMBER 10TH , 5 to 8 P.M., at The BRIARHURST MANOR Every year we have a tasting of 30 to 40 of our Christmas Sale wines to give you an opportunity to taste before you buy. We take great pride in our selection process, trying to afford the best values in all price categories and for a variety of palates. Last year we included a few of our outstanding microbrews, which was met with high praise. So, we will continue with this excellent idea. This will be an informal tasting in several of the charming rooms of The Briarhurst Manor. Chef Johnson will do his magic with Hors d’Oeuvres to delight our tasters. The fare will be $35 per person inclusive. Call us at 475-9700 to reserve your glass.
Wines of the MonthRed Wine of the Month2001 Mauro Barbero, More, Piedmonte Regularly $16.99/Sale $14.99: This very unusual blend-a "Super Piedmonte" if you will-is made from 50% Barbera and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon. Friendly and approachable it has the freshness and low tannins of the Barbera and the lushness and structure of Cabernet Sauvignon. Old vine Barbera (40+ years) with 20+ year-old vine Cabernet, it packs loads of character-a bit tart with nice, rich fruit. May I repeat the pleasures of blending in the current wine culture, we get new flavors and treats for our palates. White Wine of the Month2005 Valdesil Godello, Montenovo, Valdeorras, Regularly $12.99/Sale $11.99: One of the most invigorating surprises of Coaltrain’s continuing adventures in wine. It comes from Galicia in northwestern Spain, cantilevered over Portugal. This region has recently been applauded for its whites made from the Albarino grape. Now much attention is being given to wines made from the Godello grape like this one. It is thought that the grape was brought by the Romans, who discovered gold in a valley (it’s tough work), thus the name Valdeorras [sic]." They needed something to drink while mining, so they planted vineyards on the valley walls. After the Middle Ages, winemaking declined in the Valdeorras. But in the late 1970s there was a rebirth with the focus on two indigenous grapes—Godello and Mencia (a red, thought to be Cabernet Franc). Along came Valdesil with vineyards over the Sil River. These vineyards are composed almost entirely of slate. This slate gives the wines delicious minerality that is light, yet remarkably complex. We were particularly taken by this Godello’s bold and delicious finish. Overall, it’s more yin than yang, perhaps a bit chimerical. We believe that wine drinkers of all stripes will be as taken as we were. Certainly, if you’re looking for new wine adventure, you should try a bottle.
New Arrivals2002 Clos du Bois Briarcrest, Alexander Valley, Regularly $42.99/Sale $39.99: One of the august classics of Sonoma County. We can’t count the pleasures we’ve received from these Briacrest bottlings over the last two decades without revealing our ages. The wine is a blend, but it is predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon. Being from Alexander Valley it is softer than a Napa Valley Cab and, thus, can be drunk earlier. Like, right now. It gives you pretty cherry fruit and silky tannins. Yes, wine can be a lot of fun. 2002 Mt. Eden Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz, $39.99: Boy, talk about a "Bordeaux-like" California Cabernet. This could fool us (well, it did really). It has more herb and soil than you would expect from a California product. But, actually, this is typical of the Santa Cruz wines. The wine is just plain intriguing. You could drink it tonight, but it would be even more intriguing in five or six years. 2005 Branham Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, $21.99: This is what we hope the world of chardonnay is opening its mind to-clean pure chardonnay character, crisp acidity that lightens and refreshes meals. How is this done you ask? The grapes are pressed in whole clusters, no oak is used, and no malolactic fermentation ( a secondary fermentation that lends creaminess but can hide those lovely elements of the soil). For those of you that have sworn off Chardonnay this is a must, and those of you who haven’t it is another experience. 2004 Branham Zinfandel, Napa, $25.99: An extraordinary piece of winemaking here. It is crafted from a three acre parcel of 40-year-old vines. After fermentation the wine is aged in French oak which provides a certain "je ne sais quois" lacking in most Zinfandels. Soft mouthfeel with brambly blackberry fruit. A ton of finesse. 2004 Jazz Zinfandel Blend, Napa, $25.99: For all that helped us consume all "The Prisoner" we have come up with a very worthy substitute, and one that will no doubt be much less expensive than the next vintage of it’s heralded predecessor. A stellar Zinfandel blend (Zin, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petite Sirah) that gives us lush, deep, velvety fruit, balance and all those multifaceted aspects of well blended wines. 2004 Lemelson "Thea’s Selection" Pinot Noir, Willamette, $33.99/Sale $29.99: Catch the rising stars on their way up and Eric Lemelson’s wines are on the move. "Thea’s is Eric’s early approachable Pinot Noir with a bit lusher fruit and yet firm backbone. It has style and grace without having to age it in the cellar. Yes it is an occasion wine, you name the O. Perfect for Thanksgiving! 2003 Toad Hall Bodacious, Napa, $35.99: We have been kindly advised to contact PLAYBOY magazine for a definition of "bodacious." However, we do know that the wine is a 50/50 blend of Cabernet and Merlot. It has personality with earth and cigar box aspects. You might take it for an "Old World" product, like Isabella Rosselini. Thus, it’s not your monthly "model and aspiring actress." Oh baby, it was so good for me! 2004 Lyeth L Merlot, Regularly $10.99/Sale $9.99: There is noteworthy sophistication here, particularly considering the modest price. In other words, it’s not just about jam. There is some earth and dark fruit, framed by soft tannins. Unbelievably, it has depth and a respectable finish. What is going on here? 2004 L’Ecole No 41 "Walla Voila" Chenin Blanc, Washington State, $12.99: They’ve taken liberties with French and rightfully so. This grape takes us back to the Loire Valley of it’s roots and delivers memories of the charms of Vouvray-a touch of sweetness, hints of honey and surprise of surprises a gout de terroir or how would you say ,"taste of the soil". This wine can handle Asian cuisine or the delicacies of chicken and seafood. Another jemly link between old and new world winemaking. 2005 William Fevre Chablis, Champs Royaux, Regularly $19.99/Sale $16.99: William Fevre makes a lot of Chablis, some under different labels. The company has always been a staunch defender of the Chablis appellation, arguing that it has been expanded too much to make wines of the traditional character. We sure agree. Chablis can be the purest expression of the Chardonnay grape. That’s what we like about it. And that’s what you have with this wine. The wine offers minerals and citrus. The mouthfeel is round and pleasing, not lean and biting like lesser Chablis. The flavors are harmonious. It’s everything you could hope for from a $16.99 bottle of Chardonnay. 2000 Domaine de Nizas Coteaux du Languedoc, Regularly $14.99/Sale $12.99: Drinking this wine off the shelf is like pulling a treasure from your wine cellar. We say this because the wine is aged to perfection. The blood red color and dulcet nose with leather and spice tell you that right off the bat. The flavors are soft and refined. Upon tasting, one of our senior courtesy clerks queried, "How can you get a wine this good for under $20?" We wonder the same. 2004 Marc Morey Rully, Regularly $25.99/Sale $21.99: Marc Morey rocks! This Chalonnaise Chardonnay is a lean, mean pleasure machine. It’s absolutely dry, but has a wondrous Key lime pie mid-palate that is most satisfying. If you want big time white Burgundy flavors at an attractive price, get this. It’s a Chardonnay that we could drink all day. 2004 Manciat-Poncet Pouilly Fuisse, Regularly $29.99/Sale $25.99: In its way, this is just as remarkable as the Morey Rully above. But it is a different bird, though made from Chardonnay. It’s more luscious with sweeter fruit aromas, like an apple pie. The balance is remarkable like the Rully. We can’t decide which we prefer. We ask you to decide. 2004 Lugana, Zenato, $12.99: A sip of this wine will transport you to Lake Garda in northern Italy, outside of Verona, where it is conceived. There you can practice your German with the Teutonic tourists who storm down over the Brenner Pass, while marveling over the breathtaking Dolomites to the north. This is light white wine that goes down in flagons or "stein" proportions. "Ja, ist sehr gut." 1998 Giovane Manzone Barolo, Le Gramolere, $41.99: If there ever was a quaffing Barolo, this might be it. It has the dried rose, cherries and ineffable Nebbiolo essences that send us to the nether ends of the universe. Iit’s drinking heavenly right now. Much of the reason for this is the vintage. 1998 was a balanced vintage with soft tannins, not in need of lengthy aging. Everything has seemed to come together now. Besides, forty dollars for a Barolo like this is too good to miss. 2004 Nieto Cabernet/Shiraz, Mendoza, Argentina, $9.99: Just when you thought all Argentinean reds were made from Malbec, we give you one without an atom of Malbec in it. Actually, lots of different grape varietals are grown in this vast country (the world’s eighth largest). So this wine does not have the "purple people eater" aspects of Malbec. Instead it has earth, spice and black fruits. But, like Malbec, it would shine with beef dishes. Of course, this is Argentina after all. 2000 III Associates Shiraz, McLaren Vale, $14.99: This wine has that velvety texture which is achieved by meticulous balance of fruit and acid. The fruit is rich but not overly and there is just the enough acid to pull the whole thing together. To top it off there is a subtle hint of cinnamon that lingers in the background. A versatile wine that can stand alone quite well as a sipper, and would do well with Thanksgiving Dinner and all the trimmings. Early Winter Beer Sampler6 pack/ $7.69 – (One bottle of each) Hibernation Ale—Great Divide Brewing Co., Denver, CO—This robust, dry-hopped American strong ale will go great with nutty cheeses or stand alone as an after dinner drink. Old Jubilation Ale—Avery Brewing Co., Boulder, CO—This winter strong ale has a gorgeous mahogany hue, a hint of hazelnut, and a finish reminiscent of mocha and toffee. It will pair nicely with desserts and game meats. 2o Below Ale—New Belgium Brewing, Ft. Collins, CO—This Extra Special/ Strong Bitter has a crisp finish, and will accompany buttery cheeses, pork, game meats, and barbeque quite nicely. Isolation Ale—Odell Brewing Co., Ft. Collins, CO—This traditional winter warmer, made from premium English malts, can stand alone or be served with game meats or dessert. Celebration Ale—Sierra Nevada Brewing Co., Chico, CA—This American-style IPA is a unique winter selection. Delicious with poultry, fish, peppery cheeses, and Thai cuisine. Jubelale—Dechutes Brewery, Bend, OR—Made from dark crystal malt, the roasty flavor and bountiful hops in this beer will excite your taste buds. Enjoy it alone, with dessert or with your favorite game meat. The Perfect Pumpkin Pie Wine2001 Ochs Gewurztraminer Beerenauslese, Austria. Regularly $19.99/Sale $16.99: Tawny color, rich flavors. We didn’t know the Austrians were into pumpkin pie. The glorious nose alone makes this wine impressive. Forget about the pie, we could just sniff this. Well, then again, with vanilla ice cream it would be most agreeable. Even alone, it is guaranteed to put a smile on Grandma’s face. Dastardly Delicious Macon2002 Domaine de Roally Macon-Montbellet, $18.99: From the historically pedigreed vineyards of Henri Goyard, now tended by his chosen successor, Gauthier Thevenet. The 14 acres are farmed traditionally using minimal fertilizers or chemical treatments. The harvest is by hand rather than shaking machines, late in the season. This gives a wine with firm acidity and a fresh, mellow mouthfeel. There is no oak because the wine needs no oak. This shows the greatness Chardonnay can attain when treated with respect and love. The 2003 Bordeaux Have ArrivedDuring the Telluride Wine Festival this last summer we attended a Bordeaux tasting conducted by Jay Fletcher. Jay is a Master Sommelier who selects all the Bordeaux purchased by one of our major suppliers. Many 2003’s were poured at that tasting and we were very impressed with the vintage. The wines showed fabulous ripe fruit, rich textures, and they tasted great, which solidified the fact that 2003 is the best tasting, high quality, young Bordeaux vintage since 1982. We attended another tasting of 2003 Bordeaux in the fall and our experience was equally as favorable. The Wine Spectator rated the vintage "95" for the Left Bank and "94" for the Right Bank. 2003 was one of the hottest vintages ever in Bordeaux and the weather undoubtedly had a marked effect on the broad quality of the wines. The vintage provided potential for excellent wines with lush fruit, expressive aromas, ripe tannins and velvety texture… even from lesser appellations. The acidity levels are lower than usual in some wines and the alcohol levels can be higher. However, many of the classified growths did not suffer from low acidity levels. In general, the cabernet-based wines of the cooler more northern Medoc appellations were the most exceptional of the 2003 Bordeaux. Overall, we are very pleased with the balance and the remarkable drinkability of the ’03’s we have selected. They will continue to improve for five to eight years. Some of the highlights of our current 2003 Bordeaux inventory are as follows: Robert Parker - Wine Spectator
2003 Bordeaux ExtravaganzaWe have scheduled a November 15th Tasting at The Briarhurst Manor. Master Sommelier, Jay Fletcher will lead us in a fascinating exploration of these wines. It is a real treat to taste with Jay and learn from his insights and approach delving into the nuances of the regions and wines. For more details see the Tasting Calendar in this Newsletter. The Italian Pistol from Down Under, Biodynamic as WellSergio Carlei comes out shooting, and rightfully so. He has shortly moved his winemaking operation from the family garage to a fully professional winery in Upper Beaconfield of Victoria, Australia. And during that period the most reliable Australian wine critic, James Halliday, has dubbed Sergio’s efforts "wines of uncommon distinction." He arrives in Coaltrain saying, "Hi, I’m Sergio." We must admit we didn’t know who Sergio was. We taste the wines and groan, "Oh, my God." A bit of background. As Sergio explains, "Coming from an Italian heritage, winemaking was always part of the household tradition." His Calabrian grandfather was his original mentor and helped shape some of his ideas. Sergio, like Mike Etzel, has a biodynamic philosophy of wine making (gee what a surprise). He says, "Soil to a vine is like blood to a human being. Toxic soil means improper vine health. Toxins in the blood lead to all sorts of health problems in people. Cleaner vineyards allow the true flavors in the fruit to be expressed, which results in better tasting wines." Like Etzel, he noted that in biodynamic fruit the tannins are richer and riper. These natural preserving agents soften with the ageing process and add complexity to the wine. "The wines have real length and wonderful depth. Now certainly as the vines get older, they will just get better and better." In the winery Sergio strives to optimize the fruit flavors that his biodynamic farming has given him. He does it the natural way. So the wines are made with minimal interference, employing traditional winemaking practices. This includes careful handling of the fruit using a multi-dimensional approach with the fermentation, natural yeast and whole bunch basket pressing. In most cases the wines are unfiltered or fined. The result of these natural processes is wines of stunning purity and complexity. They are wines of character and hypnotic interest We have purchased two different Pinot Noirs from Sergio that we believe to be the finest we have tasted from Australia. They follow: 2003 Carlei Pinot Noir, Green Vineyards, Yarra Valley, $22.99: The grapes were sourced from several vineyard sites in the Yarra Valley. What a result. It gives you dark, red fruit essences and earth. It is silken with soft tannins. There is refreshing acidity. It is hard for us to think of a finer Pinot Noir for the price from anywhere. 2002 Carlei Estate Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, $32.99: The pinnacle of Carlei’s portfolio. It is only made in exceptional years in minute quantities. The wine making takes a gentle approach that respects the fruit, employs indigenous yeast with minimal handling in all aspects. What we have is a supple wine with soft, ripe tannins. The balance, intensity and persistence are unworldly. A remarkable wine in all areas. German Whites Can Be Grey and Blue (Even Red)We mean the soil in the vineyards. And in the case of the two Mosel wines following the soils are grey slate and blue slate. Along with other factors like days of sunshine, danger of frost and wind, these soils determine how the vineyards normally perform. And, of course, the Germans have classified their vineyards accordingly. Here are the wines. By the way, either one of them would be a great choice for Thanksgiving. 2005 Schmitges Grey Slate Riesling, $19.99: Though dry, this wine has remarkable lusciousness. This might be attributed to the 2005 vintage that gave many luscious wines. It also has a clean, refreshing finish coming from the gray slate composition of its vineyard. People inexperienced with Riesling will be surprised by this wines dryness. 2005 Loosen Blue Slate Riesling, $12.99: This wine is off-dry. It has fine and delicate aromas that are typical of blue slate vineyards. The palate is round and voluptuous, probably a result of the 2005 vintage. Hard to stop drinking. Contrasting Cotes-du-RhoneIt’s stunning…the differences between these two wines. And in their different ways they are both stellar. They are the 2004 J.L. Chave Cotes-du-Rhone ($16.99) and 2005 Pierre Usseglio Cotes-du-Rhone ($19.99). One would guess that some of the differences are due to the vintages and a lot of the differences come from the grape blends. You see, different grapes are allowed in Cotes-du-Rhone. Normally, Grenache and Syrah are in the majority. We’re not certain what the precise blends are in these two. We would suspect that the Usseglio is Grenache heavy and the Chave, perhaps, has some Syrah in its grape profile. This because the Chave is dark and brooding, giving its pleasures reluctantly. The Usseglio is bright, garnet in color and silken on the tongue. It greets you with gusto. Though different they are equally irresistible. What they do share is balance. We mean the balance between the fruit, tannin, acid and alcohol. Yes, it is balance that makes a wine great, like these. The Perfect Thanksgiving SparklerPatrick Bottex Bugey-Cerdon, $20.99: One of our most exotic and beloved sparkling wines comes from the Savoie of France, not too far from Geneva. Romans first planted the vines, but Catholic monks really got things going in the Middle Ages. Today, in the area, all the excitement revolves around the sparkling wines. The wines are normally made from Gamay, Pinot Noir and Poulsard. The fermentation is blocked by refrigeration and the wine filtered and bottled with some sweetness. The wines are only about 8 percent alcohol so drunk in volume they will let you sing sweetly without getting vulgar. Bottex is one of the most excellent producers of this wine and you will see upon tasting why it is so in demand and so rare. It’s perfect with brunch, by the way. |
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COALTRAIN
Wine & Spirits
330 W. Uintah
Colorado Springs, CO 80905
719-475-9700