NewsletterAugust, 2006
Tasting CalendarA three business day cancellation policy is in effect for all tastings. Wines of Sicily at Fratelli RistoranteSeptember 18th, 6:30 p.m. Sicily is where it seems to be happening in Italy these days, particularly with wine. There have always been lots of wines, coming from the island’s virtually innumerable grape varieties. Heard of Nero d'Avola? What about Catarratto, Nerello Mascalese or Grillo? Some of these wines have been excellent, others not so sublime. Now, because of financial investment and new technology, the quality is rising in every corner. So, it’s an exciting, almost revolutionary, time. To check this out, our manager of "revolutionary acquisitions," Scott Larrick, voyaged to Sicily. He was mightily inspired (he didn’t want to come back). So we have asked him to conduct a tasting to showcase the beautiful works he assiduously unearthed (excessive bibbing). Again, two "small plates" of Italian fare will be served with the wines. This tasting will take place on Monday, September 18th at Fratelli Ristorante (124 N. Nevada), commencing at 6:30 p.m. The talented restaurant kitchen will prepare a selection of authentic Italian appetizers to complement the wines. The cost is $35 plus tax and tip. Call us for reservations. This is an event that every inquisitive wine drinker should not miss. Maybe, Don Corleone will stop by.
AMERICAN ARTISAN CHEESES AND WINESOctober 4th, 6:00 p.m. Delicious artisan cheese is being produced in many places in America today. It’s kind of like the micro-brew blossoming we have seen in recent years. We are rabid "cheeseheads," despite being Bronco, not Packer fans. We’d like to taste a selection of the finest of these new cheeses along with the complementary American wines. As you know, there is hardly anything more satisfying than the right wines and cheeses. So we will gather cheese galore—soft ripened, hard, blue, goat and more. The wines will run a similar array—whites, reds and dessert for the blue cheeses, of course. The tasting will take place at La Petite Maison on Tuesday, October 4th at 6:00 pm. The cost per taster is $40 plus tax and tip. Call Coaltrain to make reservations.
Wines of the Month2004 Bourgogne en Bully, Domaine Rapet, $18.99: Perhaps the perfect introduction to the vagaries and temptations of red Burgundy. What is so enchanting about the skinny stuff, anyway? Is it the ethereal nose of cherries and red berries? Is it the silky stockings or the fantasy enhancing finish? Who knows? Whatever it is, "burghounds" (as Burgundy fans are sometimes called) can’t get enough of it. This wine has the stuff that keeps "burghounds" salivating. It’s just in a more compact shape than the expensive Burgundies. For your information, Domaine Rapet is an old estate in the village of Pernand-Vergelesses, beneath the distinctive hill of Corton which resembles Howie Long’s hairdo. The area is highly regarded for its white Corton-Charlemagne and red Corton. The wine estate is known for stylish, suave wines, not blockbusters. And so it is with this wine. Try some to see what the Burgundy excitement is about. Hopefully, you won’t metamorphose into a "burghound" overnight. Those dogs are rather high maintenance. Wine of the Month 2005 Allan Scott Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, $12.99: The New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs continue to make a statement. Perhaps these wines are most noted for their citric, largely grapefruit, noses and zingy, crisp palates. This wine has all that and some extras. First of all, it is more complex and refined than the norm. There is lemon drop in the nose and lime on the tongue initially. With each smell and sip you find something new and tantalizing. Like, say, sweet pea, nectarine and mandarin. Oh, we get carried away. At the very least this is an ideal warm weather wine. But, as one of our young staff pointed out, it would be perfect with grilled fish, dappled with a fruit salsa. Where do we find such sage youngsters?
New Arrivals2004 Aries Pinot Noir, Los Carneros, Robert Sinskey, $18.99: Rob Sinskey has the soul of an artist. With a muse like this wine, we could all be artists (or think we are). There are cherries here, refined and round. Add a drop of cola nut and a fresh "bay breeze," and you are transported to another world. In direct terms, this is a darn good Pinot Noir for the price. 2005 Tangent Pinot Gris, Edna Valley, Paragon Vineyard, $14.99/Sale $13.99: In the often proletarian world of Pinot Gris (or Pinot Grigio as the Italians insist on calling it), this has a noble bearing. It’s neither dull nor garishly showy. There are fetching stone fruit and nectarine essences without any oak to weigh it down. Anyway, as a whole, the wine comes off as a slick and grand rendition of Pinot Gris. 2005 Cline Viognier, California, $9.99: Viognier is the great grape of Condrieu and lesser renditions around the globe. This is a most agreeable Viognier. It gives floral aromas and delicious white peach flavors. Best of all, it avoids the bubble gum qualities that plague all too many non-Condrieu Viogniers. It’s delightful sipping solo or maybe better with a trout in a cream sauce or an organic chicken. 2003 Carneros Creek Reserve Pinot Noir, Carneros, $17.99: It’s remarkable that people can make Pinot Noirs this tasty for such a decent price. This is in the richer, darker black-cherry style, not the raspberry pattern. It seems to beg for a juicy prime rib. 2003 Deloach Estate Chardonnay, Russian River, $12.99: What a surprise…a value Chardonnay that we can honestly say we like. No baby fat or cloying sugar here. It has lively citrus fruit and refreshing acidity. And eight months in French oak gives it a round mouthfeel. An estimable summer quaff or for parties at any time of the year. Lucca, Vino Rosso di Santa Barbara, $9.99: Lucca is an interesting town in Tuscany. Santa Barbara is an interesting town in California. This comes from Santa Barbara but has Tuscan character. It’s an interesting wine. It reminds us of a sassy quaffer that you would drink on the piazza in Lucca. Oh, we’re hopeless romantics. 2003 Phelps Le Mistral, Monterey County, $31.99: A Rhone-ish blend (Syrah, Grenache, Petite Syrah and Alicante) inspired by that insanity provoking Rhone wind, "le mistral." The noteworthy thing about this wine is its elegance and finesse. It’s not at all "in your face." The seductive blackberry essences sweep us away. With little doubt, it’s the finest Syrah blend we have had from California in some years. 2003 Baileyana Syrah, Five Peak Vineyard, Edna Valley, $21.99: Syrah does seem to be on a roll in America’s western vine lands, in particular California and Washington (and we’ve had some good ones from Colorado too). The variations can be significant…from a smash-mouth Aussie style to more refined French styles. This is in the refined French style with smoke, spice, blueberry components. Not overly viscous or alcoholic. Very fine and not too dear at $21.99. 2003 Bussola Valpolicella TB, $38.99: If you love Amarone, drop everything and come to get this wine. It’s made by Tommaso Bussola, one of the titans of Amarone production. Though technically not Amarone, it is made like that divine liquid (the grapes are dried) and tastes like it (dried fruit, coffee and chocolates notes). Part of this wine’s richness might be attributed to the heat of the 2003 vintage that intensified flavors. Now that the best Amarones are selling at well over $100/bottle, this is a holy bargain. 2001 Melini Chianti Classico Riserva, La Selvanella, $24.99: Such finesse. The days of rough and ready Chiantis seem to be over with…thank God. This is so soft and pretty with cherry notes that you could be fooled to think it is Pinot Noir. It would be the perfect mate for very fine cuisine. 2004 Inama Soave Classico, Regularly $13.99, Sale $12.99: The word is that Giuseppe Inama used to manage Roberto Anselmi’s vineyards in the Monteforte zone of Soave (Anselmi is one of the innovators in the region and actually, in the wine world). This zone is mountainous with volcanic soil which shows in the wine. That translates into pretty intense flavors for a Soave (arguably Italy’s best white). The big deal is that it gives you refreshment along with rousing flavors. 2004 La Cappuccina Sauvignon Blanc, Veneto IGT, Regularly $16.99, Sale $14.99: Here you have a Sauvignon Blanc made by a Soave maker near the village of Montefore d’Alpone, like above. It’s most impressive. We’d venture to say that it might be the best Sauvignon Blanc from the Veneto, maybe Italy, we’ve tasted (the grape is not a gigantic specialty there). It’s a clean, complex wine with a creamy body texture that likely comes from five months of aging on the grape lees. It’s smooth and affable, yet not boring. 2001 Icardi Surisjvan Nebbiolo, Langhe, $19.99: Golly, this is about as close as you can get to Barolo without paying $50/bottle. There is tar ("goudron" as French speakers might note), cherries, roses and the ineffable essences that make Nebbiolo such an addictive grape. To clip the verbiage, this wine will not be around long. Sadly, people know about Nebbiolo. Thus, the rush to snag it. 2004 Fattoria di Lucignano Chianti Colli Fiorentini, $10.99: From the hills over that rustic village of Florence, thus the appellation "Colli Fiorentini." Lots of these wines are light and inconsequential, aimed at the "blissed-out" foreigners who make the obligatory visit to this shrine of tourism. Not this wine. It enthralls you with plum and black cherry flavors. It’s got some stuffing, but is not over stuffed. For grilled meats, pastas, pizzas it would be difficult to top. 1999 Domaine Monpertuis Chateauneauf-du-Pape, $59.99: Among real wine connoisseurs, Paul Jeune is regarded as one of France’s most respected winemakers. He’s a traditionalist. Thus, this gives you a lovely duet of fruit and earth, no oak derived trills. It’s drinking magnificently now. For a special occasion or gift, get this wine! It’s utter witchcraft. 2001 Chateau Le Touron, Bergerac, Regularly $15.99/Sale $13.99: This wine showed very well when it was included in the blind tasting with classified Bordeaux. The lowly Chateau Le Touron, a Cabernet/Merlot blend had a most agreeable dark fruit nose, satin mouthfeel and enrapturing finish...a great value. So, it looks like Bergerac has more to offer than Cyrano. 2004 Chateau de Campuget Viognier, Cuvee Prestige, $13.99: This as close as you are going to get to Condrieu, the king of Viognier, for one third the price. It comes from an area south of the old Roman city of Nimes which is a crossroads between the Rhone and Languedoc wine zones. Like a good Condrieu, this gives you white peach, apricot and coconut essences. The acid is good, the finish has a peppy, mineral zing, nothing saturnine or lurid like the pretenders. 2004 Domaine des Cantarelles Rouge, Vin de Pays du Gard, $14.99: Who could have guessed that Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon could have married so smashingly. The percentages are 60% Syrah and 40% Cabernet. They give a tasty result. The Syrah provides some smoke and spice, while the Cabernet adds some black fruit elements. There is some toast too that we suppose comes from a bit of barrel aging. California Cab drinkers should take a gander at this one. 2005 Le Galantin Bandol Rose, $18.99: Some would argue that Bandol is the best of all rose. We would not argue against that. This model is lean, yet complex, with a clean, invigorating finish. Some might posit that it’s the ideal wine for observing prancing French girls, in their ever modest bathing attire, play "le volley" (volleyball) on the Bandol beach in August. We would not argue against that. 2004 Juan Gil Monastrell, Jumilla, $15.99: If you ever wondered what the term "extract" means when applied to a wine, get this. It is as dark as a banker’s heart. But its elevated alcohol level will make you giddier than a banker. The flavors are mainly dark berries. Full on the palate with a bit of earth and tannin on the finish. 2002 Dom Martino, Vinho Regional Alentejo, Regularly $12.99/Sale $9.99: Here’s an unusual red devil from the Alentejo of southeastern Portugal. It’s earthy, the antithesis of "jammy." A good selection it you’re grilling red meat. It’s made by Chateau Lafite and you can see some Bordeaux influence here. 2004 Urban Uco, Malbec/Tempranillo, $9.99: Created by the man who imports the Juan Gil wine above, Jorge Ordonez. This, however, comes to us from Argentina. In the land of gauchos, Malbec is the polo pony of the red wines. But Ordonez prudently adds some Tempranillo to the blend to tame the typically feral Malbec. The result is a friendly wine with noticeable complexity. Check out the gargoyle and the girl on the label. It makes you want to tango all night long. 2003 Mawson’s Cabernet Sauvignon, Wrattonbully, Hill Block 3, $11.99: If your looking for something fruity or jammy in a Cabernet, don’t get this. No, this Aussie cab is dry and earthy. You can taste some dirt here and thus, the wine has character. It stands well above its similarly price peers. It almost reminds you of Bordeaux. 2005 Houghton Chardonnay/Verdelho, Margaret River, $13.99: The perfect way to kill a hot summer afternoon. The Verdelho provides pleasant melon notes on the nose and on the attack. On the back palate, the Chardonnay seems to kick in with some lemon and lime essences. We particularly enjoy the crisp finish which is not always present in Australian whites. 2005 Clean Slate Riesling, Mosel, Regularly $10.99/Sale $9.99: From the region of deep slate hills and the tortuous Mosel River, comes a voluptuous Riesling from the grand 2005 vintage. It’s almost dry, but not quite, with white peach and Granny Smith apple essences. Besides all this, it was selected the "best Riesling" at The San Francisco International Wine competition which is remarkable given its price!
RESTAURANT ALERTCARME GETS HER THIRD STARTHE CATALANS TAKE THE LEAD ON THE BASQUES, 3-2.Sant Pau del Mar, Catalunya, Spain—It was probably inevitable that Restaurant Sant Pau would ascend to the culinary summit, three Michelin Stars. The talent and obsessive work of the owners, Carme Ruscalleda and Antoni Balam, could not be tied down at the two star dock forever. So the third star came this spring, making the restaurant one of only five such honored restaurants in Spain. Restaurant Sant Pau opened in this seaside village of the same name, 30 miles north of Barcelona, in 1988. Swiftly, it earned its first Michelin star in 1991. In 1996 the second star arrived. The third star took ten more years of intense work, both physical and intellectual. Antoni Balam manages the small dining room. Though of shy demeanor, he distributes photons of humor and tranquility at every table. Carme Ruscalleda, the chef, has a different personality. She is always bright, smiling and animated like a small bird. Talk of food makes her shining visage ever more luminous. Carme wrote a cookbook called “Cooking to be Happy” (Cocinar Para Ser Feliz). Diners experience that at Restaurant Sant Pau commencing with micro-aperitifs like seafood gelatins served out of Manhattan glasses to mousses of Catalan cheeses scooped from ceramic ice cream cones. Seasonal seafood takes much of the slots on her tasting menus. But there is always a meat course such as four different cuts of lambs or pigeon stuffed with rice and wild mushrooms. Dishes like this will enhance the hearty red Priorat or Emporda wines she carries on the tidy wine list. In truth, Carme’s success is somewhat surprising in Catalunya where the culinary focus is almost totally on creation and experimentation. One needs only to look up the coast at the globally revered cook Ferran Adria, at El Bulli, to understand this. Though Carme’s dishes are creative, they are not as phantasmagorical as her Catalan colleague. Above all she understands synergy and complementary flavors. She once called her work a labor of madness and prudence. Today, due to Restaurant Sant Pau, the Catalans have one more Michelin three star than the Basques (Sant Pau, Can Fabes and El Bulli for the Catalans; Arzak and Berasategui for the Basques). This is significant because the Basques were the progenitors of the new Spanish cuisine, following Franco’s death in 1975. So, now it appears that the whisk (or blowtorch) has been passed from the Basques to the Catalans. It was probably inevitable. Reservations: Phone 011 34 93 760 06 62, Email santpau@ruscalleda.com. Good luck.
COALTRAIN CELLAR STRATEGIESHaving a wine cellar is both civilized and practical. It can provide civilized pleasures for families and friends. In a practical manner, a wine cellar can improve a wine’s taste and add to its value. So it is that we are ever vigilant for cellar worthy wines for our many customers with wine cellars. Here are some of our recent finds. They merit a fine wine cellar and will provide the ultimate wine pleasures in coming year. By the way, if you have not constructed a wine cellar and are interested, we can assist you there too. It’s not hard at all. Here are some cellar selections. They are extremely limited. 2001 Bruno Giacosa, Barbaresco Riserva Rabaja, $209.99: Well, this certainly isn’t cheap. But, considering it is probably the best wine of one of the best vintages in Barbaresco, it merits serious attention. Virtually impossible to find. 2003 David Arthur Meritaggio, Napa Valley, $54.99: Rarely do you find this off the winery mailing list. It’s a Bordeaux blend with a drop of Sangiovese. Power and balance looking for a cool home. 2003 Vall Llach, Priorat, $65.99: It’s surprising, if not startling, we could obtain this wine. Near the point of production, it’s scarce. Four or five years in a cellar should make it blossom. By the way, last month in Barcelona, we saw this selling for twice the price. 2001 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo, Brunate-Le Coste, $99.99: Forget about Gaja. Only Bruno Giacosa or Roberto Conterno (Giacomo Conterno) could make a Barolo this good. This is from the legendary “Citrico” Rinaldi, one of the grand characters in the world of wine. A Barolo for long term cellaring, i.e., 10 to 15 years. 2004 Saint-Joseph, Pierre Coursodon, $32.99: Coursodon is attracting a lot of acclaim of late. This will show you why. It’s textbook Syrah from the north Rhone. There is spice, smoke, blueberries and more. In five years, it should be absolutely killer. |
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COALTRAIN
Wine & Spirits
330 W. Uintah
Colorado Springs, CO 80905
719-475-9700