NewsletterFebruary, 2006
Tasting CalendarA three business day cancellation policy is in effect for all tastings. 15th Annual Wine FestivalMarch 10 & 11 2006Since its inception 15 years ago, Coaltrain has been the driving
force behind bringing world class winemakers into Colorado Springs
for the annual wine festival. Starting with its humble roots as
a small tasting held at the Colorado Springs School to benefit
the Colorado Springs Dance Theatre, the festival has now evolved
into a three day event with the Fine Arts Center being its sole
beneficiary. We strongly recommend support and participation in
these events. All wine aspects of the festival are carefully coordinated
by us, and we can assure our customers that they will have a fun,
educational and rewarding experience at these events. More information
is included in this newsletter. GOLD MEDAL WINES FROM THE TORINO OLYMPICSMarch 23, 2006Yes, those recent Olympic wine champs from Torino’s neighborhood.
Arneis to Barolo. Those lucky Olympians. Forget about steroids.
With these wines, record performances are assured. We plan to wrap
up the competition by tasting some of the varied wines of this
Olympic site. Of course, there will be the gold medalists…Barolo
and Barbaresco. Also appearing will be Arneis, Favorita, Dolcetto,
Barbera, Moscato d’Asti and all other types we can gather.
The medal presentation will be held at 6 p.m. on Thursday, March
23rd at Paravicini’s Italian Bistro, 2802 W. Coloado Ave.
Franco, Paravicini’s illustrious chef, will prepare Italian
morsels to accompany the wines. The charge is $39/taster (plus
tip and tax). Call us for your slot (475-9700). MEET THE MALBECS AT PARAVICINIApril 4, 2006Over the last few years, Malbec has come on the wine scene in a huge way. Much of this "hugeness" has come from Argentina. These wines have been bold and expansive like Argentina itself. We find that a majority of our customers prefer Argentine Malbecs over the more standardized red wines of Chile. But the homeland of Malbec is France. Cahors is its bastion and it is also one of the allowed red grapes in Bordeaux. So Malbec is really a many splendored thing with a varied and complex sensory profile. For you and us to get a handle on this, we are going to hold a tasting of some of the world’s top Malbecs. This will be at Paravicini’s on Tuesday, April 4, commencing at 6:00 p.m. Paravicini’s owner/chef, Franco, will craft some fine appetizers to complement the wines. The tariff is $29/taster (plus tip and tax). Please let us know if you would like to be with us exploring Malbec’s splendor (475-9700). Wines of the Month2004 Taft Street Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, $12.99: In the ever expanding world of Pinot Noir, to find one this good, at such a reasonable price is, well, heartening. This is a mid-weight wine with generous cherry aromas and touches of sweet smoke, spice and oak in the bouquet. On the palate it’s balanced with dark cherry fruit, a little earth and peppery spice and a touch of vanilla on the finish. Oh, it could be a bit showier, but it tastes like Pinot Noir with some complexity and that makes it a huge success at this remarkable price. 2004 Bourgogne Blanc, Pierre Olivier, Regularly $12.99/Sale
$9.99: Ah, Chardonnay in its most virtuous, pristine state. Yeah, the
stuff from Burgundy. The place of aloof, proud, millionaire farmers.
But, seriously, "mes amis" this is awesome, cool, swank
stuff (in American parlance). The producer, Pierre Olivier, gathers
this wine from the most skillful growers in Burgundy, blends it
and then ages it according to his tradition based aesthetic. The
result is a Chardonnay with mineral, earth, tropical fruit and
some body weight. No, it is not a replacement for Montrachet or
fine Chablis. But it does fill a niche, particularly at $9.99! Wine SaleWe need more room! It seems we never have enough for all the wines we want to carry…so you are in luck. We’re putting many excellent wines on sale because we need their spots for the new wines we’ve ordered. We’re down to a few bottles of most of these sale wines, so come in soon for the best selection. Take a look at the list. There are some gems here at rock bottom prices. Due to the deep discounts no further discounts can be given for case puchases. Domestic1998 Cafaro Merlot, Regularly $37.99/Sale $29.99: This is an aged, smooth, complex Napa Valley merlot. 2000 Stoneheath Barbera, Regularly $10.99/Sale $7.99: About as close to an Italian Barbera as you will find in California. 2001 Chappelet Old Vine Cuvee, Regularly $12.99/Sale $9.99: Off-dry, white, a pretty sipper on it’s own, or with ham or chicken dishes. 1999 Benessere Sangiovese, Regularly $28.49/Sale $22.99: Round red that won’t smack you with tannin. Sangiovese is the main grape of Chianti and Brunello. 2002 Martinelli Gewurztraminer, Regularly $25.99/Sale $21.99: One of the most opulent American Gewurztraminers we’ve ever tasted. Yes, "ever." 2003 Chehalem Dry Riesling, Willamette Valley, Regularly $19.99/Sale $16.99: Opulent, mouth enriching Oregon Riesling made in a drier style. 2001 Adea Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Regularly $31.99/Sale $24.99: Subtle Pinot Noir, with a touch of earth and smoke. Italy2003 Dante Rivetti Barbera d’Alba, Regularly $14.99/Sale $12.99: Juicy Barbera from the Winter Olympic part of Italy. 2003 Ceretto Blange, Arneis, Regularly $20.99/Sale $15.99: Round, mouthfilling Arneis, another Olympic party wine. 2002 Vigna Amito Verdicchio, Regularly $12.99/Sale $9.99: A classic Italian white. Dry, fine. 2003 Pieropan Soave, Regularly $16.99/Sale $13.99: From one of the world’s finest winemakers, Nino Pieropan. Soft, round and satisfying. 2003 Botromagno Gravina, Regularly $9.99/Sale $7.99: Now here’s a character. Fish on the grill with fennel would be sublime. Or, if you’re a character, drink it alone. 2003 Hausmannhof Sauvignon, Regularly $23.99/Sale $17.99: Exotic, ironic Sauvignon Blanc from way north in Italy, where German is the preferred language. Australia1997 Frankland Estate, Olmo’s Reward, Regularly $28.99/Sale $23.99: Bordeaux style Aussie, with charm that will reward you. France1999 Cornas, Dumien-Sezzette, Regularly $25.99/Sale $19.99: Cornas, the most virile of Syrahs, needs time. This is in prime time. 2001 Volnay, Michel Lafarge, Regularly $41.99/Sale $34.99: One of the best, from the most skillful of Volnay’s makers. 1999 Corton-Charlemagne, Olivier Laflaive, Regularly $93.99/Sale $69.99: One of the most profound expressions of the Chardonnay grape. 2004 Domaine de Pouy, Gascogne Blanc, Regularly $8.99/Sale $7.49: There is a lot more body weight here than you would expect from this white. 2003 La Joncasse, Minervois, Regularly $8.99/Sale $6.99: Earthy, dirty red from southern France. 2003 Le Galantin Bandol Rose, Regularly $8.99/Sale $6.99/375 ml.: The perfect afternoon dalliance wine…maximize fun with no impact on performance. 1999 Marcel Deiss Pinot Noir, Burlenberg, Regularly $39.99/Sale $29.99: Ever wondered what the best Pinot made in Alsace tastes like? Here it is. Portugal1999 Quinta de Cortezia, Tinta Roriz, Regularly $32.99/Sale $28.99: This is Tempranillo (Tinta Roriz in Portuguese). It tastes like a very fine Spanish Rioja. Spain2001 Altos de Lanzaga Rioja, Telmo Rodriguez, Regularly $67.99/Sale $49.99: One of the best wines from the "grande" 2001 Rioja vintage. 2003 Egiarte, Navarra Red, Regularly $8.99/Sale $6.99: Friendly drinking red, like a Merlot, but not as prosaic. 2001 Liberalia, Regularly 19.99/Sale $16.99: Potent, but poised, Spanish red from the Toro zone of north central Spain. The wise will buy this. 2003 Can Feixes, Penedes White, Regularly $12.99/Sale $10.99: Crisp, not sassy, Catalan white. As they say, "Las Catalanas son locas." GreeceAutares, Regularly 18.99/Sale $14.99: Dry, complex red made from Mourvedre and the famed Greek grape Augustiatis. South Africa2000 Villiera Cru Monro, Regularly $16.99/Sale $13.99: Bordeaux like wine composed of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
New Arrivals2003 Ridge Geyserville, $30.99: Ridge’s Geyserville is a perennial favorite for us and many of our customers. This is a bit different than its predecessors. For one thing, it has more Zinfandel in the blend than most others (76 percent), along with the Carignane and Petite Sirah. Also, it’s a bit more forward, showing more silken elegance at an earlier age. So this one can be drunk merrily now, rather than requiring the three to five years aging normal for most Geyservilles. 2003 Tabali Sauvignon Blanc, Limari Valley (Chile), $9.99: The Limari appellation is the farthest north in Chile, yes, on the fringes of the Atacama Desert, the driest place on Earth. This is a whole new thing for "Chileno" Sauvignon Blanc, where melon and fig are often key flavor components. In contrast, this SB gives you lime, grapefruit and minerals. It’s clean, delightful and a treat to drink. 2001 Damilano Barolo, $39.99: From the spectacular 2001 Barolo vintage (the best since 1996). This is classic Barolo—garnet hued, scented with dried rose and violets, and giving flavors of cherry and dried fruits. At a time when Barolos from this vintage regularly top $100, this is a RIPPING VALUE! 2004 Cabutto, Dolcetto d’Alba, $10.99: From what we’ve been tasting, 2004 appears to be a significant year for Dolcetto. The wines have more finesse than the superb, yet often clunky, 2003s. This one gives you a lot of black plum. Firm in the mouth, but not grating. Most impressive, particularly at the modest price. 2004 Monjardin Chardonnay, Navarra, Regularly $12.99/Sale $11.99: Amazing stuff from up in the Basque region of Navarra, Spain. It’s an old fashioned, unoaked Chardonnay which is somewhat surprising from a people who adore all things modern and international, like the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. The flavors are mainly Golden Delicious apple and some lime on the finish. It’s ironic and contradictory. "Los Vascos son locos." 2001 Sierra Cantabria Rioja, $15.99: The 2001 vintage in Rioja just won’t stop dazzling us. Even the cheapies ($10 dollars) are fun. This is more than fun. Think balance. The balance of Tempranillo fruit, tannin, oak and acid is so exact. Our compliments to the maker. 2003 Venta Mazzaron, Vina de la Tierra, Zamora $13.99: An interesting wine for Spanish aficionados because it comes from a special classification of wines from more obscure areas of Spain, but of notable quality. The classification is "Vina de la Tierra." This one is grown in the area of Zamora. It’s made from Tempranillo, as you might guess. It’s a big boy with cinnamon, clove and leather in the sensory matrix. Grill some "chuletas" and paradise will follow. 2004 Theo Minges Riesling Halbtrocken, $15.99: You might conclude we are incurably addicted to this stuff, since we’ve heavily pushed the last four vintages of it. This is virtually bone dry with Granny Smith and limes abundant in the nose and on the tongue. We love it on those Sunday mornings when there are no Bronco games. 2004 Sancerre, Roger Naudet, $19.99: Apparently 2004 was a killer year for the Sancerres of the Loire River Valley. You might recall the sublime 2004 Brochard Sancerre we advocated at Christmas. This is, of course, similar. But it has a bit more body weight and power. It resembles a village Chablis or Montrachet in ways. Strange, since it is made from Sauvignon Blanc, not Chardonnay. 2004 Lalande Chardonnay, Gasgogne, $9.99: Those of you who have quaffed loads of the Domaine de Pouy white should check this out. It is from the same maker. It gives you crisp Chardonnay flavors without a lot of winemaker added frou-frou. Great before dinner or with trout, chicken or any subtle food. 2003 Domaine de Gournier Merlot, Pays des Cevennes, $7.99: No tutti-frutti, pitiful Merlot here. This guy packs a punch. It’s dark, deep, rich and even has some tannin. By the way, we are trying to learn exactly in what part of France "Pays des Cevennes" is situated. Any ideas? 2004 Chablis, Gerard Tremblay, $19.99: Chardonnay in an unadorned state, i.e., no new oak barrels. The purity of fruit here warms one’s heart. There are green apple, lime and mineral notes. It drinks so easily that multiple bottle purchases are a virtual necessity. 15th Annual Wine Festival of Colorado SpringsPresented by the Colorado Springs Fine Arts Center
March 10 & 11, 2006
Celebrating the Wines of Washington State Seminar: Blind Tasting with the “Big Boys” So you think you can taste wine? We’ll see. We’ll begin with 6 wines. No info, no hints, no chance? You’re on your own. But all is not lost. Master Sommelier Greg Harrington will lead the group though the wines (after you have guessed, of course). Learn tips and tricks to help identify certain varietals and regions and make you an all around better taster. Grand Tasting & Wine Market Auction Enjoy an evening of incredible cuisine from local restaurants and caterers and over 300 wine selections from all over the world. Partake of the silent Wine Market auction while you jump and jive to the sounds of Dick Cunico’s Little Big Band. Seminar: The Challenges of Winemaking in Walla Walla Meet vintners John Abbott, David Merfeld and Jamie Brown and taste their wines as they discuss the ins and outs of winemaking in Washington’s Walla Walla Valley. * Enjoy $5 off the cost of each $30 seminar when attending both. Seminar: Classic Food & Wine Pairings Join chef Victor Matthews at his Paragon Culinary School, as he and winemakers Virginie Bourgue, Gilles Nicault and Jean-François Pellet demonstrate the etiquette in pairing exquisite food with the perfect Walla Walla wine. Gourmet Winemaker Dinner & Live Auction Dress: Cocktail Attire The ultimate experience! Indulge in a world-class gourmet dinner with our distinguished Washington State winemakers. Savor the finest wines and superb cuisine prepared by the renowned chefs of the Garden of the Gods Club. Following dinner, participate in a live auction of rare and one-of-a-kind collectable wine and wine-related lifestyle packages. Truly a night to be remembered. FEATURED WINEMAKERSJohn Abbott, Abeja Please make your reservations early as events have limited seating. Gala Festival Package$250 per FAC member; $280 per non-member ($115 tax deductible) Includes the Grand Tasting & Wine Market Auction; Blind Tasting with the “Big Boys” and The Challenges of Winemaking in Walla Walla Seminars; and the Gourmet Dinner & Live Auction. A special Wine Festival accommodations rate of $130 is on a space
available basis at the Garden of the Gods Club. 3320 Mesa Road,
Colorado Springs. A special Wine Festival accommodations rate of $130 is on a space
available basis at The Broadmoor Hotel. 1 Lake Avenue, Colorado
Springs. All proceeds of the 15th Annual Wine Festival of Colorado Springs benefit the Colorado Springs Fine Arts Center, a 501(c) (3) non-profit organization. For information please visit www.csfineartscenter.org or call 719.477.4371. WINE AND FOOD ALERTThe Perfect Couple, Sherry and Spanish Ham…the Ham Side of the Twosome Seville, Spain: While being led on a “tapeo” (a tapa crawl) through the bars of Seville, I learned to watch my head for tawny, mold-mottled hams hanging from these establishments’, not rigorously hygienic, ceilings. I enviously observed the trim and comely locals erotically munching thin slices of these hanging haunches, while sipping “copitas” (small wine glasses) of dry sherry. The people appeared happy and alive, as they well should have been, since they were enjoying one of the most satisfying food and wine couplings on earth. Most Coaltrain customers know a few things about sherry. They know the differences between finos, manzanillas, olorosos, amontillados and creams. And they know the names of some makers, which for the dry sherries are, among many, La Gitana, La Ina, Tio Pepe, Alvear Fino (Montilla), Lustau Jarana, etc. But, the ham is the mysterious part of the combo. Where does it come from? How is it made? Why is it so ineffably “sabroso”? Those are significant questions. And there are fairly straightforward answers. The life of an “Iberico” (Iberian pig), the distinctive pig whence the best ham comes, is certainly bucolic, almost sweet for a year before the slaughter house beckons. These porcines just wander about the “dehesas,” pastures wooded with cork and Holm oak trees. They munch on grass and, in the fall, glut themselves on acorns during a period called the “montanera”. There might be the occasional run-in with a bull or an errant hunting dog. But that is pretty much the maximum stress. In this way, they contentedly put on nearly 1000 pounds. And later they have the honor of providing one of mankind’s epic gustatory pleasures. It is said that these pigs arrived on the Iberian Peninsula with the Phoenicians and interbred with the wild boars that abounded at that time. Today there are 90 recognized breeds and 200 varieties of the swine. These are unique beasts which represent 1000s of years of adaptation and centuries of careful selection and breeding aimed at producing the perfect pig. So what is the perfect Iberian pig? In appearance it should have long, slim, strong legs. The snout is sharp. The hair is not wildly thick, but silken. The skin and hooves are black which is where the nickname “pata negra” (black paw or hoof) derives. Physiologically the pig has a peculiarity that allows it to store large amount of lipids in its muscles which creates the characteristic white streaks in the ham. This helps give the meat its incomparable smooth texture, oiliness and sweet aromas. It should be pointed that another type of pig flourishes in Spain. It is called the “Celtic pig.” Fresh pork often comes from these and, also, the air cured “Serrano” hams. Normally, these hams are not as esteemed as the hams from the Iberian pigs. But, some of these Serrano hams can be pretty delicious. Getting back to the true Iberian pig and its hams (two per animal). The hams are classified according to the amount of acorns they eat. This gets a little tricky, but is of importance when buying or eating these hams. There are three categories. The top one is “jamon Iberico de bellota.” This comes from the semi-free pigs that spend the last four months of their lives consuming acorns on the “dehesa.” At least half their weight must come from acorns. The second category is “jamon Iberico de recebo,” meaning half acorn Iberian ham. These finish their growing period on acorns which half their weight should derive, the rest on fodder. The third category is the “fodder pigs,” for only 30 percent of their weight is supplied by acorns, the rest is by fodder. These will be sold in shops normally as “jamon Iberico. To further confuse the neophyte “ham-phile,” the “jamones” are also classified according to the region of Spain where they were raised. It’s much the same as with Spanish wine. In fact, it’s called “Denominacion de Origen” (DO) just like wine. Unlike wine, where there are scores of DOs, there are only five for ham. They are: Jamon de Teruel, Guijuelo, Dehesa de Extremadura, Jamon de Huelva and Los Pedroches. There is also a classification for quality “Denominacion de Calidad,” (DC) that applies to hams of high quality from other areas, such as Rioja. These classified hams will have differences in texture and flavor. Interestingly, Spain’s most famous ham from the town of Jabugo, in the Huelva DO, is marketed more on its name, not the “Demoninacion de Origen.” Fame changes things. Jabugo was Pavarotti’s favorite ham and the tenor was said to fortify himself with several platters before any performance in Spain. How the hams are cured is another curiosity in this whole swinish tale. One of the first known records of the curing process came from the Roman, Cato the Censor, who died in 149 B.C. After the pigs are slaughtered they rest for at least 24 hours before being butchered. The hams then are stacked in bins and packed in sea salt which separates each ham. They are kept this way for a period calculated as one day for each kilo of weight of the ham. The salt produces a progressive dehydration. It also propagates complex bio-chemical reactions that contribute to the suave, sweet flavors of the ham. Days later, when the salt is washed off the hams, they are taken to a drying room to hang from the ceiling for six to nine months. This is normally in an attic during the warm months. Spanish call this the “sudado” (sweating). During this time the hams lose much of their liquid and the lipids are distributed into the meat fibers. Also, much of the ham’s aroma is developed in this period. The last move is down to a cool “bodega” (cellar). There the violin shaped hams will hang for 10 to 12 months. Micro-flora will develop on the skins and this is vital. This micro-flora stabilizes the fat, allowing the hams to reach the perfect point of texture and juiciness. The development of the hams is carefully monitored and, at the point when the maker deems ideal, the hams are released on the market. Interestingly, like wine, some makers prefer to release their hams earlier or later. Americans might find it difficult to grasp, but the slicing of the finished ham is key to its enjoyment. A Spanish friend once said, “Oh, you must be an expert to cut ham.” The ham is normally secured in a holder called a “jamonero,” though expert cutters will hold it by one hand and slice with a razor sharp knife in the other. “Buena suerte” for laymen like us. You must know the anatomy of a ham to slice it properly. There are three principal parts with different flavors. One is the “maza” (flank) which has the greatest amount of meat. Many ham aficionados consider this the most delicious part of the ham. On the opposite side is the “contramaza.” It has less meat and far less fat, giving less robust flavors. The third main part is the “punta” which is at the opposite end from the hoof. Pieces from here can be full flavored, but at times too salty and a bit chewy. In Spanish markets, you can usually specify what part you want. Watching an expert slice ham is both a rite and spectacle. The ham is cut lengthwise from hoof to the tip with a knife having a long, narrow flexible blade. The slices will be thin, almost transparent, with a bit of fat on each which contributes to the flavor. The slicing is done swiftly, forcefully, but with a gentle touch. The slices are then arrayed on a plate for your delectation. If you are standing at a tapa bar, you just dig in with a toothpick and await the flavor sensations. So those are some basics on Spanish ham. At least, as much as
I can understand. If doubt remains, wash some down with a “copita” of
cold, dry La Gitana sherry and absolute clarity should follow. |
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COALTRAIN
Wine & Spirits
330 W. Uintah
Colorado Springs, CO 80905
719-475-9700