NewsletterNovember, 2005
Tasting CalendarA three business day cancellation policy is in effect for all tastings. December 6th at 6:30 p.m. MASSIVE CHRISTMAS WINE SALE DEBAUCH AT THE BRIARHURSTEvery year we have a tasting of our Christmas sale wines. This means scores of wines. There will Cabernets, Chardonnays, Bordeaux, Barolo, Rieslings, Sauvignon Blancs, Merlots, Burgundies, South Africans, Chileans, Argentines and Aussies. Stuff from pretty much all over. It provides the opportunity to taste before buying. It’s a fun event, not overly serious for certain. It will be held at the Briarhurst on December 6th at 6:30 p.m. The price is $35 per taster including tip and tax. Call us (475-9700) to reserve your spots. It should be a lot of fun. The Briarhurst will provide yummies to complement the wines.
December 10, at 7:00 p.m. ANNUAL BEST OF THE BEST WINE DINNER AT LA PETITE MAISONWe were sitting around the office the other day lamenting the decline of truly great wines in the world today. And this despite the continual inflation in scores given by supposed "wine critics." Sure, the overall quality of wine is better. But a lot of superstars seemed to have burned out. But not to worry, there are still enough great wines out there to satisfy all of our demanding needs. And we will taste a selection of these at our annual "Best of the Best Wine Dinner" at La Petite Maison. These will be the finest wines we have tasted this year (out of approximately 3500)! Gifted and witty La Petite chef, Henri Chaperont, will pair the wines with a five course menu of traditional French dishes. This holiday treat will take place on Saturday, December 10, beginning at 7 p.m. If you would like to reserve a few places at the table, please call us soon at 475-9700. The tariff is $110/diner (plus sales tax and service). Spots are limited (20 diners). We’ve done this for almost 20 years (we’re too old to remember the exact number) and it has never been less than a grand gustatory experience for all.
December 13, 6:30 p.m. CALLING ALL BRAVEHEARTS FOR A SINGLE MALT SCOTCH CELEBRATIONThe galaxy of fine Scotch is mind boggling, like outer space. Particularly when you have the variation of ages and provenances. For instance, there are lowland Scotches like Glenkinchie that are gentle and slightly sweet. There are highland malts like Oban that are smooth as satin, and Clynelich that is a 14 year old highland with fetching spiced, fruit aromas. From the Isle of Islay comes Lagavulin that is dense and complex , along with Coal Ila that soars with sweet smoke aromas. We will taste all of these and others of equal stature and personality. So it should be an edifying event. Plus, some interesting delicacies will maximize the scotches. We will do this on December 13, commencing at 6:30 p.m., in the warm and friendly confines of The Briarhurst Manor. The price per taster is $30.00 (plus tip and tax). Reserve your spots with us (475-9700). Wines of the Month2001 Montecillo Rioja Crianza, $10.99: One might say that Spain’s Rioja region has had an inconsistent winemaking history. It’s certainly more due to its massive production than to its overall quality that it is the most well known red wine zone of Spain. In the past, a lot of makers were producing wines to be sold in the supermarkets of Europe at budget prices. Most of these were proletarian products, bland at best. But a handful of winemakers were making good stuff. In recent years, with improvements in the vineyards and better technology in the winery, things have immensely. And the coming of the more restrictive Denominacion de Origen Calificado appellation in 1991 seemed to help improve quality too. Anyway, this wine is a happy little Rioja with a bright garnet robe and aromas of cherries and plums. Its medium weight palate gives luscious red fruit flavors. It’s a joy to drink. Here turkey, turkey, turkey. 2004 Winkeler Hasensprung Riesling Kabinett, Fritz Allendorf, $9.99: Don’t laugh at the name. Germans, you know, have their certain linguistic penchants. But, in spite of this, we love Germans and we love their wines, though we could never hope to pronounce their wines’ names properly. And ol’ Fritz Allendorf has put together a gem of a wine here. This is a dry Riesling with a just a blown kiss of sweetness. There are Granny Smith apple and white peach aspects on the nose and palate. These alone will drive you crazy (but we’re crazy already). Actually, the wine is representative of the 2004 vintage which is heady and racy, unlike 2003 that was a bit saccharine with repressed sadness. This bottle would be the bomb with turkey or ham. Or it would enhance the experience while pondering where we went wrong in life. Ah! New Arrivals2003 Belle Glos Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara-Sata Maria Valley, Clark & Telephone Vineyard, $36.99: From old reliable Caymus Winery, we get this dandy Pinot. It comes from 30 year old vines which give tiny production, but lots of flavor. The most fetching of these flavors are blackberries with hints of allspice and cardaman. It’s pretty and balanced with a lot more going on than the typically fruit driven Santa Barbara Pinot. 2004 A to Z Pinot Blanc, Oregon, Regularly $15.99/Sale $13.99: Pinot Blancs often have an introverted personality (some might say boring). Not here, this is pretty outgoing with round, fairly full flavors. There is an attractive creaminess that is achieved by aging on the lees for a few months. There is no oak and we like that. A good turkey prospect. 2004 Bucklin Gewurztraminer, $17.99: Here’s a new winemaker for you. Bucklin makes but three different wines for a total of 1100 cases (how can they make money?) The ones we have tasted have been impressive. This one impresses with its elegance. It’s not so "Gewurzy,"i.e., spicy and viscous. It’s also drier than many American Gewurztraminers. Thus, it should have a wide drinker appeal. We know it will knock the drumsticks off a turkey. 2003 Bucklin Zinfandel, Sonoma, Old Hill Vinyard, $29.99: Ah, from the august Old Hill Vineyard, the same place where Ravenswood has made some pretty good Zins, over the last few decades. This is stylish stuff, not over the top with fruit and alcohol like more than a few Zinfandels. One is struck by its complexity which partially comes from the fact that Grenache is in the final blend. It’s also worth noting that it costs about $25 per bottle less than Ravenswood’s Old Hill. Huh! 2004 Delheim Sauvignon Blanc, $14.99: South Africa deserves to be more revered for its Sauvignon Blanc production. In particular those that come from the particular "terroir" of the Simonsberg Mountain as this. This is a "zingy" wine with lemon notes. The wine’s texture is smooth enough to handle the zing. A most impressive production. 1999 Cloof Pinotage, Regularly $16.99/Sale $13.99: Pinotage can be an African adventure. It’s a cross of Pinot Noir and Cinsault. So at times it’s like one or the other. And, at times, it’s like neither. It’s like human’s offspring compared to their parents. Anyway this is the ideal combo. It gives you Pinot elegance with some Cinsault earthiness. It’s a good food wine, particularly for safari minded folks. 2003 Durigutti Malbec, Argentina, Regularly $11.99/Sale $10.99: Maybe they should call it "Malbec Madness," referring to the rocketing popularity of this grape as produced in Argentina (traditional Malbecs are from France). Some Malbecs can be pretty "smash-mouth," but this one has a tender side to it. It gives you rich, dark Malbec flavors with touch. 2002 Chablis Premier Cru, Montee de Tonnerre, Droin, Regularly $29.99/Sale $$26.99: Classsic Chablis with the green/gold color and refined Chardonnay nose of apple and minerals. The oak curing of the wine is done impeccably which results in round and harmonious flavors. If all the world’s Chardonnays were made so well, it would be a glorious place. 2001 Corbieres, Domaine du Grand Arc, Regularly $10.99/Sale $9.99: Here’s a "big boy" with some polish. We are guessing that there is a decent dollop of Syrah in the blend because we can sense some chocolate and spice. Wines from this region of southern France are almost always blends with Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvedre in the recipe. This is a full, but smooth red that won’t tear your tongue out. 2004 Tavel Rose, Domaine La Fond, $14.99: Rose season was good to us this year. We had a bundle of dry 2004 roses from France, Italy, Spain, Germany and even the United States (yes, dry!). We just tasted this one a couple weeks ago and put it in, though "rose season" is waning. It gives kirsch aromas and flavors. It is full-bodied and satiny smooth. We think you could drink it with turkey, ham, veal, salmon, things like that. And, naturally, you could drink it merrily all alone. 1999 Chateauneuf du Pape, Cuvee des Sommeliers, Christophe Mestre, $24.99: If you ever wondered what a Chateauneuf with a little age might be like, pick up one of these. It’s round, complex and devoid of the rough edges of the youngsters. There are even some kirsch notes like you see in certain Gevrey Chambertins. 2003 Nuits-Saint Georges, Les Fleurieres, Dominique Mugneret, $45.99: We’ve had our ups and downs with Burgundy’s 2003 vintage. This is a big up. It put a smile of contentment on our normally sullen faces. It has all this delicious toast and black cherry fruit. It has depth, charm, seduction. This is precisely what a Pinot Noir wine is supposed to be, gentle reader. Gramona Imperial Cava, Regularly $25.99/Sale $19.99: Dios mios what a Cava (Spanish sparkling wine). When tasted blind, it had us totally fooled. We thought it to be real Champagne, i.e., coming from around the city of Reims in France. There is some yeast in the nose, along with dried fruits. There are the same dried fruits and some earth on the tongue. What really fooled us was the firm acidity. We have never tasted a "real Champagne" for 20 bucks this fine. 2004 Casillero de Diablo Carmenere, Rapel Valley, Chile, $9.99: Just another Carmenere. Hah-hah. It’s actually a Bordeaux varietal that made its way to Chile before phylloxera hit France. This is one of the tastiest "Chileno" Carmeneres we’ve tasted because the makers had the sense to let the grapes hang longer on the vine. This gives you more complex flavors, rather than the weedy/herbal norm. There are dark plum and coffee notes here, along with an attractive lushness. So check it out. See how pleasant this grape can be. The Champagne of the HolidaysVollereaux Brut Champagne, Regularly $39.99/Sale $25.99: Anyone who believes you can’t buy super Champagne for under $30 must try a bottle of this. This artisan Champagne is a revelation. Pierre Vollereaux uses the traditional blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier to make the wine delicate, supple and completely bewitching. Vollereaux owns 100 acres of diverse vineyard sites. He carefully selects which varietal to plant in these vineyards according to their soil and the exposition. The idea is to accentuate each grape’s inherent qualities. Judging by the wine, this seems to be a brilliant idea. Vollereaux also makes a lovely rose Champagne that we carry ($35.99). It is made in the best method, by bleeding juice off the Pinot Noir grapes shortly after crushing, not by adding red wine to clear Champagne, as many do. Anyway, if you like bubbly, Vollereaux is something you should try. They will definitely enhance the holidays. Adult Rated CiderCider, with or without alcohol, can be a religious experience (ask the Celts). As a kid, my parents used to get it from apple orchards northwest of Chicago in immense glass bottles. When it started fermenting, I particularly liked to sip it during my evening homework assignments. It provided some clarity to it all. Today we still love cider, particularly from England, Normandy, Brittany, Basque Country and Asturias, of course. Perhaps perversely, I like it with sea urchins. For most Americans, these ciders tend to be too dry and austere. So we have one cider now in the store that is sassy and fine. It is Bellot from France. There is just a hint of sweetness and it tastes like apples (some don’t). It would be an ideal holiday meal wine that is refreshing without significant alcohol and it is only $8.99! Thanksgiving- How We Might Deal With It This Time!We’ve been formulating and battle testing a strategy to survive Thanksgiving from a wine perspective. This is predicated on the ability to find whatever is necessary. Yeah, surprise, we have it at Coaltrain. Here is our plan of attack. Surviving the Day’s First Scuffle . . . Getting out of bed, of course. You don’t want to be jolted into action. So we like a Vin du Bugey-Cerdon, Patrick Bottex ($18.99), while putting on the slippers. It’s an off-dry sparkling wine from France, near Geneva, Switzerland. It gets you going without a lot of alcohol or fuss to compound the coming confusion. Trying to Plan a Plan . . . Universally a problem. So you need another sparkling wine, but more serious. Gosset Grand Rose Brut ($69.99) is an option. This is mind-boggling stuff and will give you hope. Try it with some lox and cream cheese. Provisioning . . . You have it all going, now what? The troops are watching football or marveling over the brilliance of your dog. Relax, have a glass of crisp Sauvignon Blanc, such as 2004 Quincy, Jean Tatin ($17.99). Let them feed the dog some milk bones. You can down some oysters from the turkey stuffing with the wine. Rounding-up the Troops . . . Oh boy, the problems begin. Bring out all the "cutesy" seafood and mushroom puff pastry stuff that cost so dear at the gourmet food outlet. No one will pay much attention. But maybe a bottle of 2002 Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru Les Vergers, Pillot ($52.99) will charge the batteries. Full Charge . . . Appetites are whetted. You simply must match your main course. This is our read, if price is small consideration. Turkey—try 2002 Volnay, 1er Cru Cailleret, Nicolas Rossignol ($62.99). Pork—2003 Enkircher Batterieberg Mosel Spatlese ($37.99). Red meat (you will love this)—1998 Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva, Bruno Giacosa ($199.99). Dessert, who Cares . . . Your grandparents might care (and the kids). Pumpkin pie, try this, Pedro Ximenez, Fernando de Castilla ($43.99), rich beyond comprehension. Fruit tarts and lighter tasties, try this honeybear, 2003 Casta Diva, Cosecha de Miel ($27.99). They are two of the most exotic and fine dessert wines we have seen in years. They are both Spanish. Retreat . . . Find a vacant couch or dig a foxhole in the backyard. Restaurant AlertThree Michelin Stars Without Foam, Dal Pescatore, the Finest Restaurant in Italy Canneto Sull'Ogilio, Italy—Has anyone noticed that at more and more Michelin three star restaurants foam is playing a bigger part of the meal these days? Foams of fruits, vegetables, seafood, sweets, you name it. At some of these places you haven’t a clue what the foam might be (yes, we I am alluding to El Bulli, that hallowed restaurant on Spain’s Costa Brava). But there is a restaurant, with three stars, where there is no foam and everything is recognizable. It is Dal Pescatore in the Po River Valley of northern Italy. "I believe that food should be honest and pure. Above all it should have a sense of place," said Nadia Santini, Dal Pescatore’s captivating chef. In the gastronomic world of today, where the Chef’s creative imagination is the be all, that statement is absolutely old fashioned. Nadia and her husband, Antonio, received their three Michelin stars the "old fashioned" way too. Two decades ago Dal Pescatore (meaning "from the fisherman") was a rustic country restaurant run by her husband’s parents and was called Vino et Pesce. "Mama” cooked the meals and "Papa" made the bread when he wasn't fishing. The cuisine consisted of fish from the Ogilio river, down the hill, and homemade Lambrusco wine. Very basic. But then Antonio met Nadia in college in Milan. They married in 1974 and moved back to the farm, so to speak. The economy in northern Italy was booming and so was Vino et Pesce. The two bright and curious newlyweds looked at the situation and knew that much more could be done. They decided to take the restaurant to a higher level and this was when the momentum began that eventually achieved the top three star rating (one of only four in Italy today). A few words about the gastronomic patrimony of Antonio's and Nadia's region might be a jolly idea. This region is the "Padania," an expansive plain formed by the Po River and its tributaries like the Oglio river here. It's a fertile lowland where many of Italy's finest and costliest food-stuffs are nutured and born. To mention a few, there is Parmigiano cheese, Parma hams, the scarce culatello ham, the salmis of Feline the spicy sugo sausages. There is a vast selection the tastiest vegetables, bovines, swine, fish and fowl. The Padania is said to be the richest and most remunerative food valley in the world! In addition to these natural assests, there is a major historical factor that shaped the quality of the food. This is the rule of the Gonzaga family from 1328 to 1624. During this period, Mantua thrived as an important artistic and cultural center. The family was a patron of Rubens and they imported Andrea Mantegna to paint the mesmerizing frescoes in Mantua's Palazzo Ducale that you can still view. In addition to enjoying art, the lusty Gonzagas loved to eat. They developed a tradition of fine eating that continues today. But when Nadia and Antonio moved into the restaurant it was the era of "nouvelle cuisine." It was the time of chefs like Bocuse, Troigros, Senderens in France. It was a time of different, lighter, outreaching cuisine. Traditional cuisine was more or less blacklisted. There was temptation and pressure (for financial gain) to follow this French movement in Italy. Some, like Gualtero Marchesi in Milan got on the "nouvelle bus." But for a man like Antonio with his rubber boots deep in the banks of the Oglio River, this nouvelle movement was uncomfortable. Nevertheless, Antonio realized that his restaurant had to change. He knew that everything had to be refined. The dining room, plates, silverware, wine glasses, service, everything. But he wasn't to abandon the traditional cuisine, just refine it. An epiphany of sorts came to him at the restaurant Sole in nearby Maleo in 1978. At that time, Sole was considered by many Italian food journalists to be the finest restaurant in the country. At that time Il Sole's owner, Franco Colombani, was a leader in a movement to renew Italian cuisine that was in a dormant state. This movement's goal was to remain faithful to tradition, but at the same time to re-create, to go to the heart of a recipe and present it in a modern fashion. This movement inspired Antonio and Il Sole became his model. And the Colombani family took him and his young wife under their wings. What slowly evolved at Dal Pescatore was what Antonio calls, "cuisine de terroir," as it is called in France. It is composed of the finest local ingredients. It is dependent on the climate, environment and the tradition of the area. This is all shaped by the personalities of the people running the restaurant. So at Dal Pescatore you have herbs and vegetables coming from their own gardens. You have home raised ducks. You have eels from the Oglio river and pike from nearby lakes. Most everything, other than seafood, of course, comes from the restaurant production or the "Padania." The latest endeavor in this "cuisine de terroir" theme is an "acetorium" in one of their farmhouse attics to produce their own balsamic vinegar. Knowing this, a diner is strongly advised to order the seasonal menu when coming here. Then you are certain to have the finest and freshest ingredients of the time. And, of course, this menu changes radically over the four seasons. But this gives you reason to come more often. So what of the many dishes would be the heart, pith, nectar of Nadia's cuisine? Some might argue that her "tortelli di zucca," five bow-tie shaped pastas, filled with pumpkin are it. The dish is indeed a treasure. But for me, the "tortelli di pecorino, ricotta e parmigiano" is the exemplar of Nadia's cooking skills. Three fat raviolis are huddled in the middle of an artisan plate. The golden color, the twisted shapes and uneven contours of the raviolis are stunning in their honest, simplicity. And the flavors aren't bad either. This and many other dishes have given Nadia the unofficial title of "La Cuoca piu brava del mondo" (the most clever female chef in the world). A century ago, the oftt caustic French food writer, Curnonsky, defined "haute Cuisine" as, "the concentration of the finest talent and the finest produce." This is indeed the essence of Dal Pescatore. top |
Printer Friendly Version
COALTRAIN
Wine & Spirits
330 W. Uintah
Colorado Springs, CO 80905
719-475-9700