Newsletter
September, 2005
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Tasting Calendar
A three business day cancellation policy is in effect for all tastings.
September 13th, 6:30 p.m. OLD WORLD vs. NEW WORLD: A Pinot Dinner at Walter’s Bistro
Pinot Lovers Unite! Join your fellow followers of delicious pinot
blanc, pinot gris and pinot noir for a delectable, six-course
food-and-wine extravaganza featuring pinots from the Wilson-Daniels
portfolio at Walter’s Bistro on Tuesday, September 13th,
at 6:30 p.m. Admission is $75 per person (plus tax and gratuity),
and reservations may be made by calling Coaltrain at 475-9700.
See you there!
September 20th, at 6:00 p.m.
THE ULTIMATE MARRIAGE: A WINE-AND-CHEESE PAIRING
AT HILLSIDE GARDENS
From great pinwheels to semi-hard slabs, from crumbly blocks
to creamy wedges, wine’s ultimate partner-cheese-comes in
many shapes, sizes, consistencies and levels of quality. But
only the best for us will do. So we’ll be composing a symphony
of exquisite cheeses from Par Avion—Colorado Springs’ premier
cheese purveyor—wedded to a range of aromatic wines from
the four corners of the globe, and arrayed under the striking
pavilion at Hillside Gardens at 6 p.m. on Tuesday, September
20th. If you’ve not been to Hillside, the view is among
the more stunning in the area-and is certain to be our new favorite
tasting venue. The cost of $35 per person is SO low, that space
is sure to fill up fast. Ring us now at 475-9700 to reserve your
seats!
October 2nd, 6:00 p.m.
STAGS LEAP STAR: Shafer Vineyards Dinner at Blue Star
Red Shoulder
Ranch, Relentless, Firebreak and Hillside Select are names which
evoke world-class quality in wine; names that are
forever linked with the star of Napa Valley’s Stags Leap
District: Shafer Vineyards. Blue Star will feature Shafer’s
award-winning wines—presented by Melissa Prange, from Shafer—at
an exclusive six-course dinner in its wine cellar on Sunday evening,
October 2nd at 6:00 p.m.. The price is $125/person plus tax
and tip. Seating is limited. Please call us at 475-9700 to reserve
your
spot.
October 12th, 6:00 p.m.
CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE AND BEAUJOLAIS AT LA PETITE MAISON
Wine can make for strange bedfellows like Chateauneuf-du-Pape
and Beaujolais. One is jolly and plump, the other nervous and sexy.
We propose a tasting of this unlikely couple at La Petite Maison
on Wednesday, October 12th, commencing at 6 p.m. There have been
some superb recent vintages for each of the two wines and we will
taste an elite selection blind in a formal sit-down tasting. La
Petite’s gifted French chef, Henri Chaperont, will prepare
delicacies just like you would feast upon with these wines at a "bouchon" in
Lyon, a city noted for its "French comfort food." The
price per taster is $45 (plus tax and service). The event must
be limited to 20 people. So, please call us soon to reserve your
seat (475-9700).
October 26th, at 6:00 p.m. IBERIAN ECSTACY: SPAIN-PORTUGAL SHOOT-OUT AT BRIARHURST MANOR
"Iberia? Where’s that?" you might be asking yourself.
Well, it’s the European peninsula bounded on the west by
the Atlantic and on the east by the Mediterranean that is comprised
of Spain and Portugal. We’ll be tasting a range of delicious
libations-think vinho verde, fino, albariño, garnacha, rioja,
priorato and port-from these two wine-steeped countries on Wednesday,
October 26th, at 6 p.m. at Briarhurst Manor in the company of chef
Chip Johnson’s superb cuisine-this time with an Iberian influence
(naturally!). The tariff is a ridiculously low $35 per person (plus
tax and tip), so get on the "horn" (475-9700) and make
your reservation while there’s still room!
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Wines of the Month
Burgans 2004 Albariño, Rias Baixas, Galicia, Spain $12.99: By utter coincidence, we have two "wines of the month" with
a serious connection… they are both linked to the pilgrim
trail going across Europe to Santiago de Campostela in Galicia,
Spain. This wine is made from a grape, the albariño, that
many think was brought to this region of northwest Spain by German
pilgrims on their way to Santiago. They believe this largely because
the grape is light and refreshing, like Germany’s beloved
riesling. This particular Albarino is made by a young winery named,
Martin Codax, which is located near the fishing village of Cambados.
The winery uses only estate grown grapes, which is unusual for
the region. The result is a fresh, clean wine with fetching floral
and sweet pea notes in the nose. Not surprisingly, since it comes
from a fishing region, the wine is perfect with seafood, particularly "percebes" (gooseneck
barnacles). But the wine is so tasty, one can drink it contentedly
with absolutely nothing. By the way, this is a good price for albariño.
Mas Neuf 2003 Rouge, Costieres de Nimes, France $12.99: Now this
wine region, Costieres de Nimes, was a site along the trail to
Santiago de Campostela where the pilgrims would stop in France
and take rest. We bet these religious souls did some wine bibbing
as well as resting. If you are not familiar with the Costieres
de Nimes appellation, think Cotes du Rhone. Recent, new plantings
of syrah, grenache and mourvedre have significantly lifted quality
in this appellation. Mas Neuf is one of the most forward looking
wineries in Costieres de Nimes. It was taken over by Luc Baudet
in 2000, who immediately made radical changes in the vineyards
and in the winery. This vintage is a blend of 30% syrah, 25% grenache,
25% mourvedre and 20% carignan. This gives you a dark, purple wine
with a smoky nose, complexed by black currants and cherries. Reflective
of the hot/dry 2003 vintage, the flavors are intense and full-bodied.
We think it could even get better in the cellar for two or three
years. Try it with red meats and cheeses. It would be a delightful
libation for the first cool nights of fall.
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New Arrivals
Gravity Hills 2002 "Killer Climb" Syrah, Paso Robles,
CA $44.99: The people of Gravity Hills began their quest for the
ideal zinfandel-rhone varieties property a decade ago. They drove
for weeks through every California appellation that offered much
in the way of microwave burritos and free car washes (with fill-up).
The quest ended on the west side of Paso Robles, where the timing
chain on the Jeep broke—and because it was perfect. The slope
is steep and treacherous, is a killer to climb, and has eaten more
than one tractor—hence the name of their syrah and zinfandel,
respectively. This is serious stuff: Deep, rich, full-bodied and
complex, boasting expansive aromas and flavors of black raspberry,
vanilla, earth, pepper and smoke, and a jaw-dropping finish that
goes on forever. Splash it into a decanter, as the winery advises,
and "then give it mouth-to-mouth."
Gravity Hills 2002 "Tumbling Tractor" Zinfandel, Paso
Robles, CA , Regularly $14.99/Sale $12.99: Grown on steep hillsides,
like its big brother (syrah), the Gravity Hills Zin has to sing
for its supper. The result: An aromatic, elegant red, redolent
of red raspberries, blackberries, vanilla, brown spices (cinnamon,
nutmeg, clove) and briarwood. Everything in balance makes for a
red of great versatility.
Durigutti 2003 Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina, Regularly $11.99/Sale
$10.99: Hector and Pablo Durigutti certainly get around. In addition
to producing wines under their "own" label, they also
make wines for Fincas Don Martino, Alto Las Hormigas, Saint Polo
and Bodegas Banfi! In this not-so-little gem, intense aromas of
vanilla, chocolate and coffee explode from the glass; blackberries,
dark plums and cassis join nuances of spice and smoke that are
characteristic of the variety aged in new French oak. It’s
a wine of great generosity—rich, ripe and round with a excellent
length.
Chappellet 2003 Dry Chenin Blanc, Napa Valley, CA $13.99: Chappellet’s
classically dry Chenin Blanc features estate-grown fruit blended
with grapes sourced from a single-vineyard in St. Helena. Stainless
stee; fermentation and aging preserve the fresh fruit and crisp
acidity, while fermentation and aging sur lie in French oak for
25% of the wine lends a richness to the mouth-filling flavors of
apple, citrus and nectarine that mingle with melon-mineral notes
of the finish. Not to be overlooked.
Biale 2003 "Old Crane Ranch" Zinfandel, Napa, CA $39.99: This single-vineyard zin is named for Dr. George Crane, who, in
1861, became the first winemaker to plant vinifera grapes in the
Napa Valley. Though the Salvestrin family owns the property today,
Robert Biale purchases the fruit from the block of healthy, old
zinfandel vines planted by Crane in the 1880s. The wine exudes
heady layers of black cherry and plum preserves, brown spices,
violets, herbs, licorice, toasted vanilla and minerals—all
tumbling over one another in their eagerness to reach your nose
and mouth. Don’t disappoint them…acquire your share
now, while it lasts.
Beaux Freres 2003 Estate Pinot Noir, Willamette, Oregon
$73.99: Annually among the most sought-after Oregon pinot noirs, Beaux
Freres comes from Mike and Jackie Etzel’s organically-farmed
estate vineyard, planted between 1988 and 1995. The 2003 carries
classic pinot characteristics of black cherry and plum, along with
nuances of rose petal and forest floor. Rich and concentrated,
it has the structure to take ten to twelve years of bottle age.
Having tasted a number of vintages from the late eighties and early
nineties at the winery in late July, we can attest to the notion
that the 2003 is just a baby now—but a beautiful baby, indeed!
Belles Soeurs 2003 Pinot Noir, Willamette, Oregon $39.99: A single-vineyard
wine in 2002, the new release of Belles Soeurs is a blend of lots
from the Beaux Freres vineyard, the Shea vineyard, the Ana vineyard
and the Upper Terrace (Grenache). As a result of blind tastings,
Mike Etzel calls it his finest blend: ripe, charming and complex,
with sweet black cherry and raspberry fruit, supple tannins and
a captivating personality. It is drinking wonderfully right now,
but should reveal some deliciously surprising secrets over the
next eight years or so.
Vina Leyda 2004 Sauvignon Blanc, Garuma Vineyard, Chile
$14.99: A value-laden sauvignon from a little-known valley in Chile, offering
a pleasing array of grapefruit, lime, sweet pear and rich, figgy
fruit, along with herbal, mineral and hay accents on the bright
finish. This one hails from a single vineyard, and the quality
shows. Drink while the warm weather lasts, in the company of a
savory, tomato-sauced pasta dish.
T-Vine 2002 Zinfandel, Brown Vineyard, Napa, CA $35.99: T-Vine
and Zinfandel are two names that go beautifully together, and the
Brown Vineyard Zin is a wine of great intensity and concentration,
redolent of ripe black raspberries and briarwood interlaced with
cinnamon toast and cloves. Lush and juicy, with great acidity and
a creamy finish, one taste deserves another!
J.L. Chave 2003 "Mon Coeur" Cotes du Rhone, France $16.99: The grand "Rhonist" is back on the Colorado market. Jean-Louis
is certainly one of France’s most esteemed winemakers—esteemed
mostly for his marvelous Hermitages. This Cotes du Rhone is an
ample showcase for his talent, a wine of confident bearing. There
is dark fruit, spice and a little coffee on the nose. The palate
is round, full and long. Most of all, the wine has class. What
a perfect return for Monsieur Chave!
2004 Macon Villages, Collouroy & Terrier, $22.99: Until we
tasted this wine two weeks ago we had never heard of the winery.
It’s everything a Macon could be. The purity of the Chardonnay
fruit is impressive. Up front are the expected Granny Smith apple
essences. At the finish, there’s a refreshing spike of acidity
that makes you feel like you have been goosed.
2000 Castillo Perelada "Gran Claustro," Spain $65.99: Those of you how purchased the last great wine we had from Spain’s
Emporda-Costa Brava appellation, Oliver Conti, are in for another
treat. This is the top red wine made by the amazing Perelada Winery.
It gives you a nose of raisins, cocoa and coffee. It’s round
in the mouth with black fruit flavors and oak vanillins melded
perfectly. "Sin duda," it is one of the best Spanish
red wines.
Castillo Perelada, Brut Cava, Penedes, Spain ,$11.99: Now here’s
a bargain cava with high class flavors. It has the expected cava
earthiness, but there are layers of complexity too. It shows you
why Perelada is the house cava at the nearby restaurant, El Bulli,
the most famous restaurant in Europe (75,000 reservations rejected
each year).
2004 Muga Rioja Blanco, $12.99: We feature the 2003 of this wine
as our "wine of the month," a few issues back. What we
like about both wines is that they are fairly light, but have substance.
We believe it’s the wood barrel fermentation that rounds
things out and gives the normally insipid Viura grape some pizzazz.
2001 Remelluri Rioja Tinto, $29.99: Virtually every year Remelluri
gives us one of the finest Riojas made. With the great vintage
of 2001, this wine is almost too much to believe. It’s so
full and creamy. It’s made in a Bordeaux style which is the
design of the owners, who though Basque, lived near Biarritz and
speak mainly French in the winery. Actually, this could successfully
joust with many a classified Bordeaux. Try a bottle. The supply
is minute.
2003 Icardi, Dolcetto d’Alaba, Regularly $16.99/Sale $14.99: If you think of Dolcetto as being darkish and rough around the
edges (forget about the "dolce" part of the name), try
this. It is civilized stuff. It smells of plums and is silken on
the tongue. Icardi is a formidable Dolcetto (and Barbera) maker.
And 2003 was a perfect year for Dolcetto.
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OOOOH, BABY!
Hayman & Hill 2003 Meritage, Monterey, CA Regularly
$15.99/SALE $12.99: At sixteen dollars, this supple,
easygoing, yet complex blend of the five "Bordeaux" varieties—cabernet
sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot—is
a steal; at our sale price, it just might be the deal of the
decade! Pretty aromas of cherry, blueberry, vanilla, green olive
and clove leap from the glass; the melt-in-your-mouth flavors
echo the aromas, and the finish is long and satisfying. Our philosophy
has always been that one good glass deserves another-in this
case, the operative phrase is "finish the bottle and look
for more!"
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Staff Favorites
Barnard Griffin 2004 Fume Blanc, Columbia Valley, Washington
$10.99: Deborah Barnard and Rob Griffin’s impressive Fumé Blanc
(yes, it’s just another name for sauvignon blanc) carries
aromas of fresh-cut flowers and herbs with a smoky vanilla nuance;
the flavors are dominated by ripe melons and pears with a light,
grassy note in the crisp, wonderfully balanced finish.
Marquis Philips 2003 "Sarah’s Blend" Red, South
Eastern Australia $15.99: Marquis-Philips is a joint venture between
winemakers Sparky and Sarah Marquis and U.S. importer Dan Philips.
We featured this stellar red blend a year ago, and the current
release is so delish, it merits inclusion in our newsletter, as
well. Once again, "Sarah’s" is living proof that
rich, complex, expressive, opulent blends (shiraz, cabernet and
merlot) can be produced at a reasonable price. Plum, cedar, spices,
chocolate, herbs and licorice all compete for your attention in
this silky, limited-supply red. Don’t be caught short (like
many were last year); come in and stock up on this baby now!
Marquis Philips 2004 "Holly’s Blend" White, South
Eastern Australia $9.99: The Marquises have chosen verdelho as
the primary variety in this delicious blend—a grape with
origins in Portugal and the island of Madeira—which has gained
a small foothold in Australia’s McLaren Vale. When harvested
later in the season, as it was in this case, verdelho produces
aromatic, fruit-driven wines. The nose is a complex melange of
apple, pineapple, tangerine, melon, pear, rose petal, orange blossom
and minerals; flavors of white peach, candied apple, lemon drops
and orange-blossom honey dance across the palate and into the impossibly
silky finish. Wow!
Honig 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, CA $27.99: If you’re
a California cabernet lover, this double gold medal-winner (California
State Fair and Orange County Fair) is a fraction of the price of
cabs produced from roughly the same soil as its Rutherford Bench
neighbors—a fact not lost on those who have opened a bottle.
This beautifully-realized wine is just to good to ignore any longer:
expansive aromas of spicy black cherry, ripe plum, toasted vanilla
and black tea lead to lush layers of cherries, blackberries, cola,
licorice and brown spices in the mouth; the finish seems to linger
for days. The perfect wine for the perfectly-aged Porterhouse.
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ADEA WINE COMPANY
Ann and Dean Fisher were introduced to the Oregon
wine industry when they arrived in Yamhill County in 1984. With
the help of
Mike Etzel (of Beaux Freres Vineyard), the Fishers planted a
vineyard on their property in 1990. Their “hobby” became
a “calling” in 1995, when the first vintage of Fisher
Family Cellars was released. Four vintages later, they were notified
of a trademark conflict with the Fisher Family label. Not to
be discouraged, they came up with a new “idea.” The
first label with the new name, ADEA (an acronym for Ann, Dean,
daughter, Erica and son, Adam) appeared with the 1998 vintage.
While the name has changed, the goal has not; the Fishers still
strive to produce exceptionally tasty pinot noir, chardonnay
and pinot gris (available only at the winery) that show what
the North Willamette Valley has to offer. In 2002, ADEA moved
into its custom-crush facility adjacent to the family’s
home, two miles south of Gaston. The Fishers continue to source
from vineyards such as Whistling Ridge, Shea, Anderson Family,
Hawk’s View, Laurel, Durant and Coleman for their 2,500-case
production—all of which have contributed to pinot noirs
and chardonnays that we regularly number among our favorites.
Adea 2001 “Dean-O’s Pinot” Noir, Willamette,
Oregon, Regularly $31.99/SALE $29.99: Lush and supple, the additional
bottle age afforded the 2001 Dean-O’s takes the fleshy blueberry,
blackberry and plum fruit flavors and interlaces them with essences
of forest floor, smoke, mushrooms and spice—nuances that
linger on the round, beautifully balanced finish.
Adea 2003 “Yamhill Heights” Pinot Noir, Willamette,
Oregon $14.99: Bright and lively, with refreshing acidity that
bounces off the cherry-raspberry fruit and sweet, vanilla-laced
oak and forest floor…a lovely, great value pinot noir from
a swell guy. If you want to experience the Oregon pinot excitement
without the price tag, this is your bottle! Great with grilled
salmon.
Adea 2001 Chardonnay, Willamette, Oregon $19.99: A rich, well-balanced
chard with plenty of melon-pear-pineapple fruit, and hints of creamy
vanilla and toasted butterscotch. Light, tangy and refreshing,
this beauty is everything New World chardonnay should be, but rarely
is. Perfect with your favorite pan-fried, freshwater fish filet
in a light tropical-fruit salsa.
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Blockbusting Beaujolais
Combine an extraordinary maker and two extraordinary vintages,
and you get Beaujolais unlike any others. The maker is Jean-Paul
Ruet of Domaine Ruet. He is an advocate of natural, traditional
production. He uses only fermentations started by carbonic maceration
(no crushing of clusters) and natural yeasts. He credits a portion
of his success to the soils of his vineyards which is a red-blue
granite gravel. The Gamay grape of Beaujolais grows best in this
soil because heat is reflected back up to the vine. The result
is the remarkable concentration in all Monsieur Ruet’s wines.
Don’t miss these wines. By the way, they are poured at many
of the top restaurants in France.
2000 Domaine Ruet Beaujolais Villages, $14.99: Ruet’s entry
level wine. The grapes come entirely from the Regnie zone and could
be labeled as that cru. It’s a happy wine with raspberry
and cranberry notes.
2003 Domaine Ruet Morgon, $17.99: If you think Beaujolais are
always light, little sippers, try this. It has body weight and
deep color. The kirsch and plum essences are almost hypnotic.
2003 Domain Ruet Cote-de-Brouilly, $19.99: Cherries is the word
here. It’s bright, but also a bit tight. It’s not quite
as fleshy as the Morgon, but has more style. An amazing achievement.
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Ravishing Rieslings
Weins-Prum 2004 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett,
Mosel, Germany $14.99: Cousin to Manfred Prum of J. J. Prum, Wein-Prum’s
Bert Selbach has produced a riesling kabinett from the Himmelreich
vineyard above Graach that is surprisingly exotic for the vintage.
Vibrant, mineral-scented aromas and flavors are broad and expansive.
Its satin-textured core of white peach and fresh pineapple reveals
impressive richness and finesse for a kabinett, with excellent
harmony and length; a forward yet beautifully balanced wine.
Schafer-Frohlich 2004 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Spatlese,
Nahe, Germany $23.99: This estate was chosen 2005 "Newcomer
of the Year" by Gault-Millau, and its Grosses Gewachs bottling
was named the top dry wine in Germany. Winemaker Tim Frohlich’s
spatlese has tremendous concentration, offering white and yellow
peach and pinpoint minerals on the nose. In the mouth, the minerality
shifts to a more defined spiciness, fusing with peach, grapefruit
and orange flavors. It’s bright fruit and fine structure
are mesmerizing.
Karthauserhof 2002 Eitelsbacher Estate QbA Halbtrocken,
Ruwer, Germany, Regularly $15.99/Sale $13.99: Christoph Tyrell, winemaker
for this monopole estate on the Ruwer—whose family purchased
the property from Napoleon in 1811, the year of Halley’s
Comet, after Carthusian monks had tended the vines for 450 years—was
named "Winemaker of the Year" for 2005 by Gault-Millau.
His estate halbtrocken riesling offers pear, green apple and hints
of cassis in the nose, with keenly focused minerals and a trademark
raciness in the mouth that embrace the crisp, peach-orange-lime
fruit.
August Kesseler 2003 Riesling QbA, Rheingau, Germany $11.99: Winemaker
August Kesseler assumed control of the winery in 1977 at the tender
age of 19 (!) after the untimely death of his parents. His 2003
estate QbA is a "declassified" spatlese from the famed
Rudesheimer Berg just to the east around a bend in the Rhine. Sleek,
almost racy, with intensity and a mineral undercurrent to its green
apple, peach, quince and lime flavors. Supple, with lovely balance
and length.
Bassermann-Jordan 2004 Riesling Trocken, Pfalz, Germany,
Regularly 15.99/Sale $13.99: Vintners since the 18th century, the Bassermann-Jordans,
and their winemaker, Ullrich Mell, are among the most respected
in Germany. The firm’s superb riesling trocken carries assertive
aromas of lime and grapefruit along with white peach and mineral
nuances that lend the wine great balance, length and focus; the
wine maintains a trim, white-fruit profile into the lingering finish,
which offers intriguing hints of Asian pear.
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Restaurant Alert
THE BEST RESTAURANT IN SPAIN, MARTIN BERASATEGUI
Lasarte (San Sebastian), Spain: Sorry Ferran (El Bulli). Sorry
Elena (Arzak). Not sorry Santi (Can Fabes). There is one other
Michelin three star chef in Spain besides you three and he is the
best of all four. He is our dear Martin, cooking in his eponymous
restaurant, Martin Berasategui, outside of San Sebastian.
“I believe that success comes from the work of the team,” says
Martin. These are unusual words from a Michelin three star chef,
where mammoth egos normally rule the land. But with his team, Berasategui
has had great success. Not only did he receive his third Michelin
star, four years ago, but he is thought by many food devotees to
be the top chef in Spain which in effect places him among a handful
of top chefs in the entire world.
Volumes have been written about
the Basque culinary revolution of the mid-1970s that birthed “la
nueva cocina Vasca” (the
new Basque cuisine). This was a cuisine based upon fresh ingredients,
simple treatment and new techniques in the kitchen. Berasategui,
due to his youth, was not manning the barricades of this culinary
revolution, but his career in the kitchen has been influenced
by it.
Berasategui’s journey to culinary stardom seems to
have come in three periods—mastering traditional Basque
cooking, experimentation and refinement.
Berasategui is a self
taught, or more exactly family taught. This differentiates him
from his fellow Basque Michelin three
star chef, Juan Arzak, who learned some tricks from Bocuse, Boyer
and Alain Senderens in France. Berasategui credits his mother,
Gabriela, and aunt, Maria, with introducing him to the ways of
the Basque kitchen.
A dozen years ago the menu’s offerings
were 100 percent traditional Basque. There was “Lomos de
merluza en salsa con almejas” (hake with clams) that has
been referred as the “Basque national dish.” There
was “Rabo
de buey guisado al vino tinto Rioja-Alvesa” (oxtail stew
in a red wine sauce, note that the wine comes from the Basque
part of the Rioja wine zone). Among 11 classic desserts there
was “Helado de queso Idiazabal con infusion de frutas” (ice
cream made from the smoked Basque cheese, Idiazabal, with fruit
sauce). So the menu went. It’s interesting to note that
one of the tasting menus, “Menu de casa Ane,” cost
but $25 for four courses. Those were the days.
Five years after
that everything changed. Berasategui had moved into his experimental
period. The “grand tasting menu” was
a voyage through Berasategui’s mind. It commenced with
six small appetizers. A few of these were familiar like a brandade
of dried cod. Others were pure fantasy like “Sorbete de
apio” (celery sorbet) and “Milhojas caramelizado
de anguila ahumada, foie-gras, cebolleta y manzana verde)” (caramelized
medallions of smoked eel, foie-gras, small onions and green apple).
That was the beginning. Eight courses were next. These came mainly
from the sea. One particularly startling was “Bonito Marinado
y antxoa con helado de aceite de oliva” (marinated tuna,
anchovies and olive ice cream). Another stunning dish was “Arroz
cremoso con almejas, pulpo y tuetano” (creamed rice with
clams, octopus and veal marrow). All of these dishes were followed
by a cannonade of desserts. One most memorable was a tea ice
cream with gelatin of lime and apple sprinkled with cocoa. The
combinations of sweetness and acidity danced on the tongue.
Today
is again different. As Juan Arzak said of him, “Now
Martin is calmer. He doesn’t have to invent the great dish.
He knows his dishes are already great.” So this seems to
be the refinement period of Berasategui’s art.
In this period
his grand tasting menu offers three appetizers, eight small courses
and two desserts. It is a work of art, unified
and sublime that expands one’s gastronomic realty. From
the appetizers of cockles in a cream sauce, fried potato croquettes
and caramelized onions with anchovies and roasted red peppers,
you move into the eight main courses.
Interestingly, Berasategui
lists the year that these courses first appeared on his menu.
Only one is pre-dates 2000. It is
the 1995 Milhojas caramelizado de angula ahumada (mille-feuille
of smoked eel). This was carried over from his middle period.
As mentioned above, it is served upon foie-gras with garnishing
of spring onions and green apple. It is a masterpiece with a
combination of flavors and textures that leaves you almost dumbstruck.
It’s a feeling akin to seeing Picasso’s “Guernica” for
the first time.
He follows this with a squid soup with raviolis
filled with squid ink. This was introduced in 2001. In appearance
and flavors it
seems almost oriental. Next up is a warm vegetable hearts and
seafood salad. It arrived in 2002. It comes on a square glass
plate. The mélange of colors make you wonder if Jackson
Pollock has a job in the kitchen. It goes like this to the final
meat course which is a roasted cutlet of lamb from 2003 served
on a bed of diced, marinated and sautéed lamb brains.
There
were two desserts, both coming from 2004. One was wild strawberries
soaked in the Basque Txakoli wine, paired with lemon
ice cream. The last was ice cream in a lemon tea sauce with a
ginger stick that was garnished with mint. The addition of ginger
is a refinement of the dessert described above, made during his
experimental period, that lifts it to perfection
So it goes today
at Martin Berasategui. It is indeed a team effort. From the eighteen
in the kitchen, some of whom use tweezers to
plate the food, to the six working the dining room to the receptionist
at the door to Steve l’Abbe, his brilliant sommelier, they
all combine to make the restaurant great. But, behind it all,
creating and guiding, is the artistic genius of the overly modest
Martin Berasategui. DINING AT MARTIN BERASATEGUI
Reservations here are a virtual necessity. The restaurant is closed
Monday and Tuesday, and Saturday lunch and Sunday dinner. It is
also closed from December 15 to January 15. The menus described
above cost about $250/person with wine. Smaller menus are available
and orders a la carte can be made. The telephone number is 943
366 471. On the web, the address is www.martinberasategui.com.
The street address is Loidi Kalea 4, Lasarte. We always take a
taxi from San Sebastian.
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