NewsletterJuly, 2005
Tasting CalendarA three business day cancellation policy is in effect for all tastings. July 19th, 6 p.m. WINES OF LE TOUR DE FRANCE: A SALUTE TO LANCE’S LAST RIDEHave you ever watched the Tour de France and noted that they ride a lot through vineyards? The wines from some of these vineyards are quite rare in America. We decided to get out the map and see where the "Tour" is heading this year and taste some of the more unusual wines. There will be wines from places like the Savoie, Jura, Gascogne, Roussillon, the Languedoc, the Loire and Alsace. We will taste these along with authentic French delicacies crafted by La Petite Maison’s new chef/owner, Henri Chaperont. The tasting/celebration will take place at the restaurant on Tuesday, July 19th, kicking off at 6 p.m. The cost per participant is $29 (plus tip and tax). As always, a limited number of spaces are available. So, please call us at 475-9700. July 26th, 6 p.m. THE KING AND QUEEN OF ITALIAN WINE: BAROLO AND BARBARESCOWhat can you say about these wines, other than, "I wish they didn’t cost so much?" Ah, they are the apotheosis of class, finesse and power. Yes, they are noble. There is really nothing quite like Barolo and Barbaresco. More than a few wine experts consider them to be the finest red wines of the world. And, to boot, we’ve had all these recent exceptional vintages. So let’s taste some! The date is Tuesday, July 26th, at La Petite Maison, beginning at 6 p.m. La Petite’s gifted kitchen will create authentic French appetizers to highlight the wines. The price is $55 per taster (plus tip and tax). To ensure the highest quality, we must limit the number of tasters. Thus, call us soon to reserve your seat (475-9700), and join us at the "audience" with Italy’s King and Queen.
RAVISHING RIESLINGS AT BRIARHURST MANOROur last tasting of white wines made from the noble riesling was
over a year ago, and we think that’s more than enough time
to wait for our next "fix" of these overwhelmingly delicious
summer essentials! Judging by the response to our previous tastings
of this wondrous grape, many of you agree. So, let’s get
together on Thursday evening, August 11th, on the patio at Briarhurst
Manor, around 6 p.m., for a lineup of superb rieslings (primarily
German) from the 2002 and 2003 vintages in the company of Chip
Johnson’s sublime cuisine. The tariff is $29 per person (plus
tax and tip), and you may reserve your space by ringing us up at
475-9700. This one is sure to sell out, so don’t delay—call
today! Wines of the Month1999 Cascina Ballarin Barolo "I Tre Ciabot," Piedmont, Regularly $39.99/Sale $29.99: We never thought we would live to see this again…a superb Barolo costing less than $30.00. We were just in Piedmont, whence Barolo comes, and witnessed many wines priced over $100/bottle at the point of production. So, our hearts raced when we saw and tasted this. It’s from the terrific 1999 vintage. On observation, you see a bit of bricking on the edges, but the heart is still dark. The nose is what first drove us wild. It explodes with the violets and dried roses that are the hallmarks of the nebbiolo grape, from which it is made entirely. There is also a haunting drop of cinnamon. We nosed it for five minutes before tasting it. On tasting, we were somewhat surprised at its power. There are dusty tannins beneath its ripe cherry-fruit flavors. So, we believe the wine has good cellar potential…five years probably. Thus, those with cellars should consider a bulk purchase. And those who would like to experience the Barolo excitement at a reasonable price might pick up a bottle or two (give the wine an hour of air before drinking). We’ve sold a ton already. By the way, we are hosting a Barolo and Barbaresco tasting in July. Check out our tasting calendar for the details. 2004 Chateau Jeanguillon, Entre-deux-Mers, Bordeaux, Regularly $10.99/Sale $9.99: This might well be the white summer sipper of the year. It comes from a region in southern Bordeaux—Entre-deux-Mers—and is made from sauvignon blanc, sauvignon gris, semillon and muscadelle. True to type, it is light, dry and zippy. There is some flesh here, but no oak in sight. All this is what makes it so refreshing. We envision it drunk alone on a deck or beside a mountain stream. However, those of you who know how to fish (not us) would find this heavenly with freshly-caught trout, fried in butter or olive oil, or grilled over a campfire on pine bows (Indian-style). New Arrivals2003 R & B Cellars "Swingsville" Zinfandel, California, $10.99: In case you haven’t noticed, zinfandel prices have risen significantly in recent years. Some are above $30. So we’ve been beating the bush for good zin values. This is juicy and spicy with fetching raspberry essences all about. A good "grill-side" swigger. 2000 R & B Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Napa, $49.99: Mount Veeder fruit here, and it shows in the wine’s finesse and intensity. Actually, it’s a blend of 88 percent cabernet sauvignon and 12 percent merlot. The merlot imparts roundness, and the balance of oak, fruit and tannin is simply arresting. If you would like to try an evolving cabernet, get some of this. 2004 JB Cellars "Margaret’s Blend" Arneis/Tocai, Mendocino, $11.99: Who would ever have thought that two grapes indigenous to northern Italy (Piemonte and Friulia) could be grown, vinified and blended in California to produce an excellent wine? This stuff fills your mouth with exotically delicious flavors. "Complimenti!" 2003 Tudal "Flat Bed Red" Zinfandel, Napa, $12.99: The first vintage of the Tudal family’s Flat Bed Red is a tribute to the flatbed trucks working the farms and vineyards of America. This is authentic stuff from hundred-year-old, Napa Valley vines; a medium-bodied blend of zinfandel (90%) and petite sirah (10%). The appropriately jammy, raspberry flavors of zinfandel mingle with hints of boysenberry and wild spice provided by the petite sirah. Traces of toasty oak roll into the long-lasting finish. 2004 Qupé "Bien Nacido Cuvée" Chardonnay-Viognier, Santa Barbara, $18.99: A seductive 50-50 blend of chardonnay and viognier from the Santa Maria Valley—fermented in French barriques and taken through malolactic, too—this luscious, full-flavored white was a huge hit at last April’s Wine Festival of Colorado Springs. Redolent of honeydew melons, peaches, and tropical fruits, with traces of orange zest, honey and vanilla, the wine has excellent fruit-acid balance and a long, smile-inducing finish. The winery suggests serving it with "Hawaiian regional cuisine, Indian food or any other dish that’s full-flavored and incorporates a bit of sweetness and spice." Only 750 cases were made, and we bought the last of it available, so…if you’d like some, time is of the essence. 2001 Beau Verall Merlot, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, $10.99: The Reverend Brisco C. Culpepper, a humble, very funny fellow on a 30-year love affair with wine, bow ties and overalls (thus the name "Beau Verall"), is a dear friend of ours who plies the wine roads of Colorado, bottle in hand. Brisco’s good friend, Brother Toad of Sonoma’s Toad Hollow Vineyards, provided the Russian River merlot for this exceptionally delicious, value-laden wine, and Brisco did his part in bringing it to our attention. Now we’re bringing it to your attention. The rest is up to you! 2003 Cline "Ancient Vines" Zinfandel, California, $13.99: Produced primarily from 80- to 100-year-old vines growing in Cline’s historic Oakley vineyards, this lush, complex, spicy, velvety-smooth, beautifully-balanced zin is drinking wonderfully well right now—especially with all manner of grilled meats and tomato-based dishes. You’d be hard-pressed to find a better zinfandel for the money! 2004 Swanson Pinot Grigio, Napa, Regularly $17.99/Sale $14.99: If you’re looking for a pinot grigio with a little more substance than many of those from northern Italy, pick up a bottle or two of this one. It maintains the freshness of the grape, but gives more roundness and, well, flavor. 2004 Hugues Beaulieu Picpoul de Pinet, Coteaux de Languedoc, $8.99: Picpoul is the grape variety and it is grown largely around the village of Pinet, thus the complete name. It became an appellation under the umbrella of Coteaux de Languedoc in 1985. To get to the point…this is a lively white that beckons on every warm, summer day. 2001 Daniel, Roland & Gisele Vernay Cote-Rotie, Rhone, $39.99: This is the way Cote-Rotie used to be, before some of the vintners decided to slam it with new oak barriques. Thus you get the smoke, spice and blueberry aspect that make the syrah grape so admirable. And, believe it or not, this is an excellent price for Cote-Rotie. More than a few push $200. 2002 Lucien Thomas Sancerre, Loire, Regularly $24.99/Sale $19.99: Well, we probably shouldn’t call this a "new arrival," but it is a new arrival at the price. We’ve been hunting down 2002 Loire wines such as this because the quality is higher than the 2003s and the prices lower. This baby has all the nervous nobility of a superb Sancerre. It’s both delicate and forceful—the yin and yang of the sauvignon blanc, you could say. 2004 Chateau Mas Neuf Rosé, Costieres de Nimes, $11.99: It’s that time of year again…dry rosé season. Though hugely refreshing, this is more than a whimsical quaff. It offers strawberries and other fruits with a mouth-tingling bump of acid at the end. Duval-Leroy Champagne Brut Rosé, Regularly $19.99/Sale $14.99 (375ml bottle): Duval-Leroy is one of the great Champagne houses that you just don’t see much of in America. But this is a lovely rosé Champagne…dry and round with tasty strawberry aromas and flavors. 2002 Wunsch & Mann Pinot Blanc, Alsace, $11.99: Pinot blancs can taste a bit thin at times. Not this one. It has a big, toasty nose with creamy, but dry flavors. Really impressive sipping. The wine shows what a good producer can do in a great year, as it was in Alsace in 2002. 2004 Tommasi Chiaretto, Bardolino Classico, Veneto, $10.99: Rarely do you find this more than a few miles away from Lake Garda in Italy’s Veneto. It’s a rosé, made from grapes normally used to make the red Bardolino. We’re thrilled to have this wine on hand, because it gives us such a lively mix of flavors—cherries, plums and cranberries to mention just a few. It’s a rosé that is both satisfying and refreshing. 2003 Cipresso Chianti, Tuscany, $10.99: A new vintage of this dandy little chianti has hit our shelves. Reflecting its hot vintage, this is more than a light little sipper. There is a bit more structure and stuffing. It has excellent "grill wine" potential. 2003 Castaño Monastrell, Jumilla, $9.99: "Monastrell" is Spanish for the dark, brooding mouvedre of southern France. In other parts of Spain (namely Catalunya) it’s also called "mataro." Here you have a dense wine, but with the fruit to make it enjoyable. Meat eaters should be in heaven with it. 2000 Montecillo Crianza, Rioja, Regularly $12.99/Sale $9.99: These guys always seem to produce something tasty from their vineyards in the smoke colored hills of Rioja. And this wine is no exception: a soft, easy drinking red with dominant cherry flavors, along with, perhaps, a splash of raspberry and earth. 2003 Imus, Monsant, Catalunya, $11.99: Here’s a new Spanish red from the Monsant appellation of southern Catalunya. This is where our beloved Mas Donis comes from. But Imus is a different wine than Mas Donis, exhibiting less oak and no cabernet sauvignon in the mix. It is much more traditional. You can taste some of the dirt and stone from the rugged terrain on which vines are tended. 2001 Scarpantoni "School Block" Cabernet-Shiraz-Merlot, McLaren Vale, Australia, $17.99: This delicious blend of shiraz (60%), cabernet (30%) and merlot (10%) from vineyards where the school house once stood in the small, South Australian township of McLaren Flat was the standout red at a recent tasting of Australian wines. A star of The Grateful Palate wine portfolio, it’s rich blend of fruit and earth, soft palate and lingering finish will have you longing for more—particularly at the price. 2002 La Sauvageonne "Pica Broca" Coteaux de Languedoc, $15.99: When we originally tasted this syrah-grenache-carignan blend from the Languedoc last fall, we were bowled over by how rich, rustic, complex and just plain delicious it was. Eight months later, it’s even better: ripe red berries, juniper, chocolate, spices, earth and smoke assuage both nose and palate; soft but broad tannins and fine acidity suggest that the wine would profit from five or six years of bottle age (if you can wait). Pica Broca’s expression of terroir (garrigue and herbes) is well suited to game and lamb dishes. We have very little of this vintage left, so…if character is your thing, you know what to do. Featured WineriesStonestreetJ. Stonestreet & Sons Vineyard & Winery began in the autumn of 1989, when Jess Jackson purchased a small vineyard and winery in the rolling hills bordering southern Alexander Valley. He named the winery in honor of his late father, Jess Stonestreet Jackson, and dedicated it to the task of handcrafting wines using traditional methods while showcasing modern techniques. Stonestreet quickly garnered international acclaim for powerful red and luscious white wines. Following this early success, Jackson acquired the nearby Alexander Mountain Estate and focused Stonestreet on mountain wines, particularly cabernet sauvignon and merlot. A new winery was completed in time for the 2000 harvest and sited near the estate. Today, after careful investment, precision farming and adapted winemaking techniques, Stonestreet wines are setting new, higher standards for Alexander Valley. 2001 Stonestreet Chardonnay, Sonoma, Regularly $18.99/Sale $16.99: A big Chardonnay, somewhat Burgundian in style, this wine has rich, creamy flavors of tropical fruit, pear and baked apple wrapped in French oak—with touches of vanilla and pecans in the finish. Partners well with herbed chicken and flavorful cheeses. 2001 Stonestreet Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Regularly $18.99/Sale $16.99: This wine is beautifully balanced with an especially interesting textural complexity. An elegant structure supports rich layers of spicy blackberry/cassis fruit along with nuances of cedar, chocolate and coffee. 2001 Stonestreet Merlot, Sonoma, Regularly $18.99/Sale $16.99: Impressions of ripe cherries, vanilla and cedar aromas swirl above the wine in its glass envelope. Well-balanced, the broad mid-palate displays a mixture of cherry and plum with subtle hints of smoky toastiness, coffee and chocolate. Spicy black fruit flavors linger on the finish. Charles KrugPrussian immigrant Charles Krug founded Napa Valley’s first winery—named after its founder—in 1861. Through his innovations—among them the careful selection of rootstocks, grape varieties and vineyard sites (novel concepts in late 19th Century America)—Krug became the major local winery figure of his era, greatly influencing Napa Valley’s future development. Cesare and Rosa Mondavi purchased the winery in 1943, and within a decade, Charles Krug Winery had joined Inglenook, Louis Martini, Beaulieu and Beringer as one of the "Big Five" wineries of the Napa Valley in its 1950s heyday. Fifty years later, Charles Krug is still family-owned and operated, guided by "living legend" Peter Mondavi and his sons, Marc and Peter Jr. A nine-year, $13 million investment program, kicked-off in 1999, is ushering in a new era for Charles Krug: With its current releases, the winery is making the best wines in its storied 144-year history. We invite you to get to know the wines of Charles Krug once again! 2003 Charles Krug Chardonnay, Napa Valley, Regularly $15.99/Sale $13.99: This elegant Chardonnay, made from hand picked grapes, was cool-fermented in small stainless-steel tanks (20%) and Burgundian French oak barrels (80%). Minimal malolactic fermentation has preserved the bright green apple, pear and peach aromas and flavors, which mingle with essences of vanilla, toast and spice. 2001 Charles Krug Merlot, Napa Valley, $15.99: A surprisingly complex and interesting Merlot that’s rife with raspberry, peach skin and brown sugar aromatics. On the palate, you will find intriguing nuances of roasted pecans, white pepper, tobacco leaf and blueberry jam. A wine that’s well-balanced with a soft tannin finish. 2001 Charles Krug "Generations" Red Reserve, Napa Valley, $33.99: A nose of cherry fruit, violets, cedar and pepper introduces this elegant blend of cabernet sauvignon (59%), merlot (24%), cabernet franc (12%), petite verdot (4%) and syrah (1%); the palate is rampant with brown spices, roasted coffee bean, earth and vanilla. The finish is redolent of dark chocolate, fresh blackberries and soft, seductive tannins. In short…a Napa Valley "meritage" of great distinction from an outstanding vintage—and one that will easily age another five to eight years. (Although the wine drinks so well now, you’ll be hard-pressed to keep your hands off of it until then.) WINE ALERT2001 BAROLO AND BARBARESCO:TRUE PERFECTION IN PIEDMONT Monforte d’Alba, Italy—Forget about the WINE SPECTATOR’S repeated claims of perfection for the 2000 Barolos and Barbarescos. Compared to 2001’s wines, it’s like comparing an Andy Warhol print of a soup can to a Tintoretto painting…hardly worthy of the same art gallery. Pretty much every wine producer here was appalled when this magazine dubbed Piedmont’s 2000 production as a "perfect 100 point vintage." One must take into account that the Piedmontese aren’t much for hyperbole, in contrast with some of their other wine brethren scattered about the world. But virtually no Piedmont winemaker thought 2000 to be a "perfect 100 point vintage," as THE WINE SPECTATOR opined. Most thought it a nice vintage, with not a lot of depth, largely for young drinking. Their affection is for the 2001 vintage. To quote the elder statesman living in the Barbaresco zone, Bruno Giacosa, "I think 2000 was a decent vintage for Barolo, giving pretty, drinkable wines at an early age. It was a little better year for Barbaresco, where a few great wines were made. But 2001 is a great year everywhere, where classical wines have been made from both Barolo and Barbaresco. There is just more concentration and ageability with the 2001s. And that is what we want, because we can obtain more complexity with time." Moving to Barolo, its elder statesman, Aldo Conterno, says much the same. "Oh, the 2000 Barolos are good, but they are not anything exceptional. I prefer the 2001s. They are extraordinarily full wines, the way traditionally great Barolos must be. You know, I said the 1989 Barolos were better than the 1990s, and that went against the press reports. Time has proven me right. And I believe 2001 is better than 2000. I was proven right in the first case, and feel sure I will be proven right with the 2000 and 2001 debate." Over at Giuseppe Rinaldi’s villa, perched above the village of Barolo, there was never any doubt. Rinaldi (known as "Citrico," for his acid, sharp wit) has never been overly enthusiastic for 2000. "Okay, 2000 Barolo is good enough. But it never had the soul or voice I like. My 2001s (still in "botti," wood barrels) can give me what I want. I want a wine to age and take on a special personality. 2000 might do that a little, but 2001 will be far more interesting a wine. But perfect? No vintage is ever perfect." Down the hill from Rinaldi, at E Pira, Chiara Boschis says simply, "I made the best Barolo I’ve ever made in 2001 (the Cannubi cru bottling). For me it was almost a life-changing vintage." So what is it that makes 2001 better than the so-called "perfect vintage" of 2000? In brief, it is depth of flavor and more ageability. The 2001s just have a deeper foundation and tannic structure than the 2000s. This is largely a function of 2001’s long growing season. It was more of a traditional summer, with temperate temperatures and some needed rain showers in August. A warm, humid period arrived in September, but typical fall days with bright days and cool nights followed for the harvest. Most growers were ebullient. This weather gave the wines soft tannins that are rarely seen in the 2000s, making the 2001s more interesting and age-worthy. A few might argue that the 2000s are more elegant, or that some 2001s are too alcoholic. Both are viable arguments. But for me, 2001 is clearly a more characteristic expression of what the profound nebbiolo grape can give you in Barolo and Barbaresco. Before getting to “the best” of 2001, some thoughts on buying and drinking strategy are in order. For Barolo and Barbaresco lovers, 2001, besides its quality, is a must to buy, because 2002 and 2003 were major disasters. In 2002, due to rain and hail, almost none of these wines were made. In 2003, the hot/dry summer led to small yields of grapes with low acid, deficient pigmentation and high alcohol. A few makers are even considering declassifying the 2003 wines to the lesser Nebbiolo d’Alba appellation. So we have two vintages ahead with poor or limited production. So, it’s either get the 2001s or wait a couple of years. Fortunately, from barrels samples, 2004 looks to be another superb vintage.
Another consideration for people with 2000s and 2001s, is to drink the 2000s way before the 2001s. In just a year’s time, I have found some 2000s evolving rapidly, particularly the Barbarescos. Put the 2001s away for five years and start looking at your 2000s. STAR BAROLOS AND BARBARESCOS FROM 2001ORLANDO ABRIGO 2001 Barbaresco, Vigna Rongallo: From the Barbaresco commune of “Treiso.” Dark and rather closed in the nose. The flavors are lush, redolent of plums and cherries. The evolution in the glass is extreme. It seems to have the possibility to age ten years. CERETTO 2001 Barbaresco, Bernadotte: The total line-up of 2001 Barolos and Barbarescos from Ceretto were the most solid group I have ever tasted from this maker. And this is the best Bernadotte Barbaresco, since Ceretto bought the vineyard and started replanting it several years ago. I explodes with dark cherry fruits and is far more complex than any of its predecessors. A wine to enjoy over the next five or six years. 2001 Barbaresco, Bricco Asili: This one is showing a lot of vanilla and spice from the oak right now. The flavors are intense to handle the oak. It’s a huge wine that could go ten years. 2001 Barolo, Brunate: I must confess to not being much of an adherent of this vineyard in the commune of La Morra. It’s usually overly light and simple for me. But some call that elegance. This Brunate has presence and power, along with elegance. 2001 Barolo, Prapo: With this wine, it is three successes in a row (1999, 2000 and 2001) for the Ceretto’s Prapo vineyard in the commune of Serralunga. Often the Prapo bottlings are big and brooding, without much complexity. This is big, but with complexity. It has the coffee, chocolate/cherry and tobacco you expect from Serralunga Barolo. Could age at least a decade. 2001 Barolo, Bricco Roche: Normally Bricco Rocche considerably outpaces the two above Ceretto Barolos. But in this vintage the race is tighter. In fact, this wine is quite tight. It’s hard to assess now, but everything (fruit, tannin, acid, alcohol and wood) seem in harmony. And, because of this harmony, this seemingly could age a long time. By the way it comes from vineyard in the Castiglione Falletto commune. ALDO CONTERNO 2001 Barolo, Bussia Soprana: To think that this is Conterno’s “entry level” Barolo is almost beyond comprehension! It’s big and bouncy with bewitching dried rose and camphor essences in the nose. It’s fat in the mouth. Its lushness makes you wonder just how long it will age. By the way, all Conterno Barolos come from the Monforte commune. 2001 Barolo, Cicala: Conterno’s giant…normally his most tannic and longest aging wine. This, however, is a gentle giant. It is lush with bushels of sweet fruit. There are certain vanilla aspects that make you wonder if newish “botti” were employed in aging. Conterno compares it to the 1999 Cicala. For me, the 1999 had more earthy aromas. Anyway, this is a grand success. Like the above Bussia Soprana, it is difficult to estimate how long this will age. But, ten years would seem no problem. ANGELO GAJA 2001 Barbaresco: Though not at the absolute top, Gaja has crafted a fine Barbaresco in 2001. His gifted winemaker, Guido Rivella, puts it together from several small vineyard sites. This gives complex dark fruits in the trademark oak frame. I believe it’s the last docg wine that Gaja makes, since his big hitters have been changed to Langhe Nebbiolo to allow grapes other than Nebbiolo in the blend. BRUNO GIACOSA 2001 Barbaresco Riserva, Rabaja: Bruna Giacosa is a changed man these days. A grandson, Francesco, seems to have added joy and vitality to the stern demeanor for which he was renowned. The only things the same are his wines…among the most sublime vinous creations on the globe. This blood red hued wine is a feast in a bottle. There are dried fruits and roasted nuts on the nose. The mouth is satin and sensuous with mature fruits. It’s powerful, but controlled. It’s a just successor to his outrageously fine 2000 Barbaresco Riserva, Bricco Asili. Attention. This wine will go sale in 2006. 2001 Barolo Riserva, Rocche di Falletto: My God, how does Giacosa do it? It offers the same blood color, rather than youthful purple, of the above Rabaja Barbaresco. The nose is utter exotica with dried dark fruits, dried figs and some Asian spices. The palate give you dark fruit, dusty tannins and, maybe, some Serralunga dirt (the commune whence it comes). As Giacosa’s enelogist, Dante Scaglione, remarked, “It’s less elegant than the 2000, but it is far more classical.” Should easily age a dozen years. ELIO GRASSO 2001 Barolo, Ginestra, Vigna Casa Mate: One of the biggest and best wines Elio Grasso and his son, Gianluca, have made. The nose is closed but opens in a few hours to offer violets, tobacco and underbrush. There are noticeable tannins on the palate, but gobs of fruit as well. Should evolve for another ten years, easy. THIS WINE WILL ARRIVE IN COALTRAIN SHORTLY! E. PIRA 2001 Barolo, Cannubi: When we first tasted this out of the barrique in early 2004, we thought it was time to move it from wood to the bottle. The esteemed Cannubi vineyard gives soft feminine flavors that can easily be overwhelmed by oak aging, even in a powerful vintage like 2001. This wine wears a crimson robe and is perfumed with violets, raspberries and cherries that are not buried in oak. The flavor components are perfectly equilibrated. Though not a blockbuster, the balance of this wine should let it age gracefully for a decade. Yes, it probably is the best wine Chiara Boschis has made at E. Pira. BRUNO ROCCA 2001 Barbaresco, Rabaja: 2001 must have been a particularly good for the Rabaja vineyard, located south of the village of Barbaresco (see Giacosa’s Rabaja above and I’ve heard that Guiseppe Cortese made a fine 2001 Rabaja too). Bruno Rocca is something of a “modernist” and uses both “barriques” and “botti” (large barrels) to age his wines. Normally, his Rabaja bottlings are characterized by sweet cherry fruit and overall softness. This is darker and deeper flavored than the norm. Also, the oak balance is better, compared particularly with 2000. In seven or eight years this could be amazing. GUISEPPE RINALDI 2001 Barolo, Brunate-Le Coste: Beppe Rinaldi makes this from two different vineyards-Brunate in La Morra and Le Coste near his house in Barolo. He believes he gets more complexity this way. This bottle gives you power and finesse. It has a stunning matric of flavors. Rinaldi is one of the staunchest traditionalists and thus the purity of the Nebbiolo fruit is the wine’s outstanding feature. The wine is one of Rinaldi’s finest efforts and might age for 20 years. LUCIANO SANDRONE 2001 Barolo, Cannubi Boschis: I remember 10 or so years ago Luciano Sandrone joyously working in this vineyard and calling it the “Nice of Barolo” for its warm climate. The vineyard has consistently produced a graceful, joyous Barolo. But, in 2001, Sandrone and Cannubi have ascended to a new level. This is a wine with grace and underlying power. It is not just cherries and berries with some dusty tannin and a pinch of oak. There is some stuffing here. His 2000 Cannubi was good, but this is better. It is the finest Sandrone Barolo, I have tasted. SIX BOTTLES ARE HEADED FOR COALTRAIN. Unfortunately they will not be cheap for obvious reasons. |
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COALTRAIN
Wine & Spirits
330 W. Uintah
Colorado Springs, CO 80905
719-475-9700