Newsletter
April, 2005
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Tasting Calendar
A three business day cancellation policy is in effect for all tastings.
April 29 and 30
Wine Festival of Colorado Springs
The annual "don’t miss" wine event in Colorado
Springs, a slate of tastings, seminars, auctions and a winemaker
dinner to benefit the Fund for the Arts at Pikes Peak Community
Foundation and Colorado Springs Dance Theatre, takes place on Friday
and Saturday, April 29 and 30, at various locations. Register online
at www.ppcf.org, or call 719-389-1253. See you there!
May 12th, 6:00 p.m.
Zinfandel for The Grill
With warm weather just around the corner (some say it’s
already here), our
thoughts turn to firing up the backyard grill, which, having languished
unappreciated throughout the winter, is hungering for all manner
of meats.
With that in mind, we thought we’d put together a tasting
of the essential grilling companion-zinfandel-along with a few
dry rosés, the perfect summer sippers. Join us on Thursday,
May 12th, at 6:00 p.m., at Manitou’s Stagecoach Inn, for
a mere $35 per person, plus tax and service. Call Coaltrain at
475-9700 now, or stop by to sign up.
May 24th, 6:00 p.m.
Kiwi Magic: A Wine Tour of New Zealand
G’day, Mates! Renowned for its thrillingly intense sauvignon
blancs, complex
pinot gris and luscious rieslings, New Zealand’s Marlborough
just might be
the sauvignon blanc capital of the world. And the lesser-known
areas of
Martinborough, Waipara, Hawkes Bay, Waiheke Island and Central
Otago
(boasting the world’s southernmost vineyards), offer a wide
range of superb
wines-including cabernet, merlot and pinot noir. Coaltrain’s
John Meredith,
recently returned from two weeks in New Zealand, will lead us on
a tasting
tour of the wine lands of Aotearoa (The Land of the Long White
Cloud), on
Tuesday evening, May 24th, at 6:00 p.m., at Briarhurst Manor (on
the patio,
weather permitting), for $35 per person, plus tax and service.
Contact us at
475-9700 to reserve your space!
June 14th, 6:30 p.m.
Southern Starz Wine Dinner Since we’re covering "half" of Down Under in May
with a wine tour of New
Zealand, it seems appropriate to explore the other half-Australia-in
June.
To make that happen, Chris Partlow, regional representative for
Australian
importer Southern Starz, will be on hand June 14th, at 6:30 p.m.,
at The
Blue Star, to take us through a range of Australian red and white
wines,
paired with The Blue Star’s delectable cuisine. The tariff
is $55 per head,
plus tax and service. RSVP to us at Coaltrain, 475-9700, to secure
a seat.
Good on ya, mate!
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Wines of the Month
2003 Domaine du Maupas Juliénas, Beaujolais, Regularly
$13.49, Sale $11.99: Jacques and Nathalie Lespinasse, fourth generation
growers on the outskirts of the village of Juliénas in Beaujolais,
were in our fair city recently to taste us on the 2003 vintage
of their estate Juliénas. And what a beautiful wine it is:
expansively aromatic, light- to medium-bodied, redolent of the
cherry and cranberry fruit typically found in the gamay noir à jus
blanc variety, with just a touch of earthy complexity in the finish.
Pure and refreshing, it is ideal for drinking over the next year
or two (try it with—and in—coq au vin). One could even
serve it slightly chilled, especially during warm summer afternoons.
2003 Lugana, Cantina di Custoza, Regularly $11.99/Sale
$10.99: From the shores of Lake Garda, a land of soft light, Alpine backdrops
and busloads of German tourists. The Germans come here to hike,
windsurf, kayak and drink. Lugana might be the perfect white wine
to re-hydrate after strenuous activities. It’s refreshing
and probably has more replenishing substances than say, Gatorade.
And it tastes better. As far as Luganas go (made from the Trebbiano
di Lugana grape), this is a touch richer, reflecting the heat of
2003. It gives you delicious melon, apricot and peach aromas, and
flavors. We recommend it while gazing at our mountains, or on a
hike in the hills. We must caution about ever going into mountain
water like the reckless Germans…could be sharks!
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New Arrivals
2001 Geyser Peak Meritage, Regularly $43.99/Sale $35.99: We couldn’t
resist this one (particularly at the sale price). There is black
fruit, red fruit, chocolate, tobacco, everything nice in a largely
Cabernet and Merlot blend. It’s a fine example of what these
grapes can accomplish when working together.
2001 Galante Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley, Regularly
$23.99/Sale $17.99: A most distinctive fellow here. What stands out is its
earthiness in the nose and on the palate. Normally, you don’t
find this in modestly priced Cabernet. Give it an hour to breathe
and you will enjoy an uniquely agreeable experience.
2002 Raymond Merlot Regularly $11.99/Sale $10.99: A real smoothie.
It is interesting because it is 87% Merlot, 9% Pinot Noir and 4%
Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s soft and pillowy on the palate,
but not at all flat or dull. We might put in the "quaffer/slammer" category
because it is so easy to drink
2002 Terre Andina Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Chile, Regularly
$11.99/Sale $10.99: A nifty little "Chileno" Cab here.
This is no jammy, fruity, bargain basement wine from the Andes.
As the name implies, it has some Andean dirt and substance. It
tastes hugely better than its modest price. Maybe there is hope
for Chile. 90 Points and a BEST BUY from the Wine Enthusiast.
2003 Icardi Barbera d’Asti, Taboran, $14.99: Boy, the high
heat of 2003 sure made for a good vintage of Barberas in Piemonte.
Generally, those from Asti are lightish bodied with strawberry
flavors and sometimes a little prickle from acid or CO2. In contrast,
this is round and fleshy with plum and cherry flavors. It is outstanding
on every level, even the price.
2003 Pra Soave, Monte Grande, $17.99: We’ve been featuring
the stylish 2003 Pra Soave Classico for a couple months. This is
new. It, in contrast to the Soave Classico, sees a little new oak.
So there is some toast and vanilla with this wine that you don’t
get in the Classico. Though the Garganega grape is acutely sensitive
to oak, the Pras pull it off with expected Italian panache.
2001 Capestrano Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, $9.99: A glowing,
dark red color makes you think you are on to something good here.
The nose gives plum and tobacco, and turns out to be the wine’s
finest quality. The palate is warm and satisfying. Pretty darn
nice for 10 bucks.
2001 Chateau Recougne, Terra Recognita, Bordeaux Superior,
$16.99: From
the overlooked 2001Bordeaux vintage comes this pleasant and satisfying
red. It has a burst of toasty oak in the nose that enhances the
red and black fruit aromas and flavors. It’s a wine to get
to know at its reasonable price.
2000 Le Clementin de Pape Clement, $39.99: This is the little
brother of mighty Chateau Pape Clement, in Pessac. It is top-flight
Bordeaux. As such, it offers intensity and complexity. There is
tobacco, cedar and cassis on the nose. The palate gives black fruits,
vanilla and hints of gravel. Yes, this is the real deal. It is
always advisable to purchase second labels, such as this, from
the famous chateaux in good vintages. You get the "classified
growth experience" for less than half the price.
2003 Condreiu, E. Guigal, $44.99: Many have tried, yet no one
has been able to equal the Viognier experience that real Condrieu
provides. Sure, some winemakers have gotten the characteristic
peach, apricot and coconut parts. But they always seem to lack
the balance of sublime Condrieu, often lacking acidity. But, where
the "poseurs," fail most is that they lack the "haughtiness" of
great Condrieu. This is a textbook example of Condrieu/Viognier.
So, if you want to taste the real deal, try this.
2002 Domaine des Blageurs Syrah, Vins de Pays d’Oc, $10.99: If you wonder what the French term "garrigue" signifies,
put your nose into a glass of this. It reeks of stony ground and
dirt, along with scrub and brush. It’s a Randall Grahm creation,
but of course. It gives full Syrah flavors with some dusty tannins.
Our only caution is that it is not a wine for vegetarians.
2003 Winter Creek, The Old Barossa Blend, Grenache/Shiraz,
Regularly $39.99/Sale $29.99: Holy-moly, this is serious stuff. The Grenache’s
cherries and plums plays beautifully off the dark fruits and bacon
fat of the Shiraz. To say the least, there is a whole lot of shakin’ going
on in this bottle. If you like your reds big, you can drink it
now with "big food." But we would love to try this again
in ten years. For you "pointsters," THE WINE ADVOCATE
scored this 95.
2004 Lawson’s Dry Hills, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New
Zealand, $14.99: If you think that every New Zealand Sauvignon
Blanc tastes like a half ripe Texas grapefruit, try a bottle of
this. It is different and challenging, offering hay, melon, mowed
grass and lemon drop essences. Interesting.
2004 Kumeu River Pinot Gris, Marlborough, New Zealand,
$15.99: Maybe one of the most exotic Pinot Gris that has come through the
store this year. It gets your attention with the exotic fruit and
lychee nut aromas. The mouthfeel is lush with those exotic fruit
flavors again. It seems like a good candidate for full-flavored
fish dishes in fruit sauces or a pork roast.
2000 Domaine de Cabasse, Cotes du Rhone Villages, Seguret,
Regularly $17.99/Sale $15.99: Of the 16 villages allowed to put their name
on a bottle of Cotes du Rhone, you do not see Seguret every day.
Shame. This is suave, yet mouth filling, with cherries, spice and
that ineffable "garrigue." In layman’s terms, it’s
like a Gigondas or Vacqueyras.
1999 Rotllan Torra Reserva, Priorato, Regularly $19.99/Sale
$14.99: Yet another "kick-‘culo’" Spanish red. It
comes from Priorato, Spain’s red hot wine zone. It’s
not as luscious as the Mas d’en Compte we featured over the
holidays, but it gives you the raisined fruit in the nose that
is typical of Priorato. In essence, this provides the Priorato
experience without bankruptcy court on the horizon. Yes, wines
from there are expensive…many over $100 on release.
1999 Oliver Conti Red, Emporda-Costa Brava, $44.99: We were shocked
when this became available in Colorado. Oliver Conti is by far
the finest maker in his zone (Emporda-Costa Brava, between Barcelona
and the French border). The wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Thus, you would think it to be Bordeaux
in style. But, no, it has the style and elegance of a Burgundy.
Everything is subtle and slightly mysterious. Remarkable stuff.
2001 Pouilly-Vinzelles, Louis Latour, $12.99: At risk of sounding
like Pollyanna, this is soft, gentle and friendly, like modest
Chardonnays should be. There is a lot of ripe apple here. It’s
not difficult at all. We could drink it all day by itself. But,
if someone wanted to grill a trout or bake a chicken, we wouldn’t
complain too much.
2002 Hexamer Riesling, Nahe QBA, "Quarzit," Regularly
$16.99/Sale $14.99: One of the remaining wonders of the sleek and
fine 2002 Germany vintage. Harald Hexamer crafts exceptionally
fine wines from his 30 acres of vines around the village of Meddersheim.
This has a mineral base with ripe Riesling flesh. It is balanced
and delightful, pretty close to dry. For those of you who have
not tasted many wines from the Nahe…they are kind of half
way between the Mosel and Rheingau styles. That is, not as light
and delicate as Mosel and not as big in body as a Rheingau.
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Wines of Steele
Jedediah Tecumseh "Jed" Steele is numbered among California’s
leading winemakers. You may recall Jed from his nine-year tenure
as the original winemaker for Kendall-Jackson, taking the winery
from 35,000 to more than a million cases a year. He has consulted
for Fess Parker, Villa Mt. Eden and several other wineries, and
has been chosen Winemaker of the Year by both The Wine News and
Wine and Spirits Buying Guide. Jed began his own company, Steele
Wines, in 1991. He sources his three-dozen different bottlings
from numerous vineyards, and is particularly well known for his
single-vineyard chardonnays. As a winemaker he clearly knows his
stuff. Jed uses the expression "beyond the terroir" to
explain his philosophical view of blending wines, saying, "winemakers
can act as a chef in combining blends of flavors from different
regions…maybe an apricot flavor from one site balanced with
citrus flavor from another site." We recently tasted through
Jed’s latest releases—delicious, varietally-correct
wines at reasonable prices...what more could you want?
2002 Steele Old Vine Zinfandel, Pacini Vineyard, Mendocino,
Regularly $16.99, Sale $13.99: Rich and ripe, this is a complex, mid-weight
zin that’s blended with a splash (10%) of petite sirah for
depth and structure. Both nose and mouth exhibit layers of blackberry,
cherry and chocolate—with just a hint of spice. Beautifully
structured and nicely balanced, it’s a pleasure to drink.
2001 Steele Merlot, Clear Lake, $16.99: While most California
producers of merlot tend toward the soft and supple style, Jed
opts for a wine in a richer, more generous style. This bottling
from Lake County is a mouthful of pleasure: with plenty of cherry
fruit, some fetching tobacco leaf and cedar notes and a long, lush
finish. Jed recommends some cellar-time to allow the wine’s
aromas and flavors to properly "meld," but if you love
rich, flavorful merlot, you’ll be tempted from day one!
2002 Steele Pinot Blanc, Santa Barbara, $16.99: Sourced from two
Santa Barbara County vineyards, Bien Nacido and Goodchild, Jed’s "house
white" sports tropical fruit aromas and flavors, with hints
of green apple and oak. Steele’s "baby chardonnay" is
fermented briefly in new French Oak, which brings out more of the
ripe, apple-citrus fruit and lends a crisp "lift" to
the finish—making Steele pinot blanc a great value.
2002 Steele Chardonnay "Steele Cuvee," California, $16.99: Jed’s flagship wine, the Steele Cuvee is blended from fruit
harvested from seven different vineyards—including Durell,
Sangiacomo, Bien Nacido and Lolonis—and consistently exhibits
excellent depth of flavor, bright acidity and complex, tropical-fruit
aromas of papaya, mango and pineapple. The signature of this wine
is that it’s so seamlessly layered and well-integrated that
it makes you crave another glass without hesitation!
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Chateau Carbonneau Comes to Coaltrain
We bet many have never heard of the appellation "Sante Foy-Bordeaux." It’s
a new appellation situated about 50 miles from the city of Bordeaux,
between St. Emilion and Bergerac. The winery is a small family
(Franc de Ferriere family) operation with 32 acres of producing
vineyards. They make two totally different reds, one is oak aged
and the other isn’t. They are very distinct and both delightful.
Here’s what we have.
2002 Chateau Carbonneau, $9.99: This is matured in steel vats
before bottling. It gives red fruits and plums. It’s so friendly
in the mouth that it is difficult to stop drinking. You might call
it a "bistro wine."
2001 Chateau Carbonneau, Wood Aged, $13.99: This is a whole different
thing. It is rounder, more mouthfilling. There are toast and vanilla
essences from the barrel aging. The fruit is more black fruit,
like blackberries and cassis. It is more a food wine...lamb comes
to mind.
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WINE FESTIVAL
OF COLORADO SPRINGS
Hurrah!!! It’s that time again. The weekend of April 29th
and 30th, Coaltrain will host, for the thirteenth year, a stellar
Wine Festival to benefit the arts in our fair city, including the
Colorado Springs Dance Theatre. This year, we are bringing seven
winemakers from the Central Coast region of California (yes, the
area where the movie "Sideways" took place) to Colorado
Springs. They will all be pouring their wines at the Grand Tasting
on Friday, April 29th at the Broadmoor. In addition, there will
be over 300 other wines from around the world poured by winery
reps and suppliers. Many of the Springs’ finest restaurants
participate in this event by providing scrumptious samples of their
cuisine to accompany the wines. Top that off with jazzy swing music
from The Little Big Band and all the pieces are in place for a
great evening! We hope to see you there.
Three wine seminars conducted by the winemakers will be held
throughout the day on Saturday. The seminars are a wonderful
way to interact
with the winemakers in a small venue while sampling and comparing
their wines. That evening, a Winemaker Dinner featuring all
seven winemakers will occur at the Garden of the Gods Club.
As the
dinner winds down, a lively auction of outstanding wines and
enticing lifestyle items will begin. Two of our guest winemakers
are offering trips to their wineries with accomodations, tours
and lunch or dinner included. All in all, the Winemaker Dinner
and Auction is a spectacular event and a very fun way to support
the arts in our community.
FEATURED WINEMAKERS
Jonathan Nagy — Byron Vineyard & Winery
Gary Eberle — Eberle Winery
Fred Holloway — Justin Vineyards & Winery
Bob Lindquist — Qupe Wine Cellars
Rick Longoria — Richard Longoria Wines
Brian Talley — Talley Vineyards
Louisa Sawyer Lindquist — Verdad Wine Cellars
SCHEDULE OF EVENTS
GRAND TASTING & SILENT AUCTION
Friday, April 29, 7:00 pm—The Colorado Hall at the Broadmoor,
$60 per guest
WINEMAKER SEMINARS
Saturday, April 30
10:30 am—Up, Down and Sideways—Garden
of the Gods Club
Join vinters Rick Longoria, Brian Talley and Jonathan Nagy for
this frolic with Pinot Noir. $30 per guest*
12:00 pm—Classic Food & Wine Pairings—Paragon
Culinary School
Chef Victor Matthews and winemakers Gary Eberle, Fred Holloway
and Bob Lindquist pair exquisite food with the perfect wine.
$45 per guest*
2:30 pm—The Rhone Rangers Return—Garden
of the Gods Club
Join all seven winemakers to discuss the impact ofclimate and
soil in growing Rhone varietals. $30 per guest*
* $5 off the cost of each seminar when attending more than one
seminar.
GOURMET WINEMAKER DINNER AND LIVE AUCTION
Saturday, April 30, 6:30 pm—Garden of the Gods Club, $150
per guest
To register, go to www.ppcf.org or call 719-389-1253
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WINE TRAVEL ALERT Touring and Tasting
in Spain’s Red Hot Wine Zone, Priorato
Falset, Priorato, Spain—What a difference ten years makes.
Back then you would hardly see a soul on the skinny, corkscrew
roads of Priorato. Whole hamlets were deserted. The wineries seemed
to be in hiding. As for dining and lodging, “buena suerte.” But
it’s a whole different thing today. Wine tourism has begun
to sprout on the smoke colored mountains of Priorato.
What has caused this germination? Well, wines bearing names like
l’Ermita, Clos Erasmus, Finca Dofi, Clos de l’Obac,
Fra Fulco, Mas Doix, Clos Mogador and Vall Llach to mention a few
that we’ve carried in Coaltrain. In this span of ten years,
these wines have become some of the most esteemed and sought after
in the entire world. And this status has generated a curiosity
among wine lovers. They wonder just what this Priorat wine zone
is like. So they come to see it, taste some of its wines and maybe
purchase a few special bottles at the point of production (if they
are lucky enough to find them).
We overheard a lot a German being spoken on our recent swing through
Priorato, though Catalan is still the dominant tongue. When you
hear German, either from Swiss or German natives, you now there
is tourism. And, indeed, you no longer have to scratch and hunt
to survive like the wolves that once inhabited this rugged area.
There are several comfortable hotels and a couple good restaurants.
And some of the wineries have come out of hiding and are open to
the public. But, though things have changed, Priorato is still
far from being a touristic wine zone like Napa Valley or Tuscany,
where people flock, expecting luxury appointments.
On my introductory visit, we set up camp in Reus, the closest
large town to the zone (ten miles away). Our reasoning was “selection”--the
largest selection of hotels and restaurants. Today, Reus continues
to have the largest selection of these necessities. However, no
hotel or restaurant in Reus is absolutely irresistible, though
many are impeccably serviceable. The problem with Reus is the traffic.
The traffic circulation is very confused and, thus, getting in
and out of town is difficult. Plus, half the time there is some
type of accident or road construction. I’m sure the locals
have it all figured out. But, for the first time visitor it as
harder than understanding a Borges short story.
So, last year, we set-up in Falset, on the eastern edge of Priorato.
Falset is small and pretty without traffic snarls. It has one good
hotel (Hostal Sport) and, most important, the best restaurant (l’Aspic)
for miles around. There are other lodging options right in the
wine zone such as in Gratallops and Scala Dei, but these tend to
be very rudimentary. I ran into a young Swiss organ restorer at
Alavaro Palacios’ winery in Gratallops who was staying in
a pension (La Font) in the village. He was satisfied and said, “The
pension is clean, quiet and cheap.” The Hostal Sport, where
we settled in, was the same, though not rock bottom in price ($100/night
for a double).
Besides these more traditional style lodgings, there is a history
in Priorato, as in southern France, for farmhouses to rent out
rooms. The original idea was to offer bucolic escape from urban
frenzy for people living in Barcelona and Tarragona. City people
would come to relax or hike the trail system through the mountains
and valleys. And sometimes they would fill a plastic carboy with
Priorat wine from one of the cooperatives to take home to the city.
In Catalan, these farmhouses are called’ “cases de
pages.” They are scattered throughout the wine zone and you
will see little signs announcing them as you drive around. We stopped
at two that looked inviting. They were Mas Ardevol outside of Falset
and La Carrerada in Porrera (where Vall Lllach is located). They
can be reached by the same internet address, www.terra.es/personal2/ruraltur.
One of my Barcelona friends told me years ago, “The only
thing I don’t like about going to Priorato is eating there.” The
area indeed lacked quality and selection when we were there the
first time. But it wasn’t all that bad. Part of this person’s
lament might have come from the fact that Barcelona residents are
spoiled when it comes to fine dining options.
Today even a Barcelonan can eat contentedly in Priorato. And this
is largely due to two restaurants, l’Aspic in Falset and
Cellers de Gratallops in Gratallops. The best is l’Aspic.
Ironically we ended up in it after being turned away from the Cellers
de Gratallops which was totally booked for Sunday lunch. We were
the last walk-ins to get a table at l’Aspic. We saw many
people turned away (a lesson for reserving for Sunday lunch in
Priorato). In the restaurant’s modern/chic dining room, we
had one of the finest meals of a swing through northern Spain that
included a couple Michelin two and three star restaurants, along
the way.
Why was l’Aspic so good? Flavor, flavor, flavor! I actually
went light. I had sautéed wild mushroom and garbanzos, a
grilled sole and dessert, two desserts actually. The mushrooms
and sole were prepared perfectly and burst with flavors. With these
we tried two white Priorat wines—2003 Barranc dels Closos
(Igneus) and 2002 Clos Mogador Nelin. Yes, Priorato makes superb
white wines too. The huge Barranc dels Closos was perfect for the
mushrooms and garbanzos, and the lighter 2002 Mogador Nelin was
a match for the more delicate sole. But the desserts stole the
show. They were a spice cake with vanilla ice cream and rich chocolate
mousse drizzled with Priorat olive oil and dusted with salt. This
with a glass of dolc de l’Olbac sent me to the moon.
The Cellers de Gratallops is not quite the celestial experience
of l’Aspic, but it is totally agreeable. Since it is owned
by Clos de l’Olbac, you have a deep selection of their wines,
including many older reds and the aforementioned dolc de l’Olbacs.
They also offer all of Clos d’Olbac’s newest white
efforts (called Kyrie). Here we tried some foie gras and duck confit.
A maturing 1998 Clos de l’Obac was drunk with the duck and
a 1998 Dolc de l’Obac with the foie gras. It was all delicious,
but anything would be with wines that extraordinary.
If all the above lodging and dining sounds too confusing, or you
have doubts about your Catalan accent, or you are not enthusiastic
about working so hard on a vacation, there is a solution. It is
called “Catacurian.” These people offer gastronomic
vacations in Priorato. They provide lodging, organize tastings
of wine, olive oils and other Priorat foods. They even have cooking
classes so can learn how to properly prepare the Priorat classic, “truita
en suc” (omelets with a myriad of fillings and sauces). You
can pretty much custom tune your visit. It can be just a weekend
or for 10 days. You can reach “Catacurian” on the web
at www.catacurian.com.
ABOUT THE WINES OF PRIORATO
The wines of Priorato have come light years in a decade. Ten
years back the gentry of Barcelona used to refer to them, somewhat
derisively, as “Gratallops wines” (Gratallops means “scratching
wolves” in Catalan). These were wines they would bring back
to the city after weekend outings to the tranquil wine zone. They
would heft plastic bottles at the cooperatives and pay the equivalent
of $1.00/gallon. These were often highly alcoholic (16% was common)
and often with some sweetness. The wines were bought not so much
for their gustatory excellence, but as a memory of the peoples’ visits.
But, last year, I saw wines selling for over $100.00 bottle at
the point of production. And a large proportion of these were wines
of world class quality, worthy of the high prices. Hate to be redundant,
but times have changed here.
Wines have been made for centuries in Priorato. But like the
terrain, the wine history has been rocky. It almost came to the
end in the late 1800s with the arrival of Phylloxeria. The locals
started abandoning grape vines and began planting almond and olive
trees. Wine production kind of bumbled along.
A hint of the future came in 1974 when an agency of the United
Nations (FAO) noted Priorato as a zone of potentially high quality
wine. Some people just said “ho-hum” when this was
announced. But a small few paid attention and saw opportunity in
Priorato. The most notable of these people were Alvaro Palacios
from Rioja, Daphne Glorian of Switzerland, Jose Luis Perez from
Valencia and Carlos Pastrana of the local Rene Barbier winery.
They came and initiated new production techniques and studied the
different varietals, searching for the best grapes for quality.
They were not looking for the high production of old. They began
to change the entire mentality of Priorato. Their efforts brought
them personal success and success to the region which became Spain’s
second wine zone to be given the country’s top quality appellation
in 2000 (D.O.Ca., Denominacion Origine Calificada). With that,
even the people of Barcelona began to give a little respect to
Priorato.
It might come as a surprise to many that Carignane is the predominate
grape in Priorato, not Grenache. But it isn’t dominant by
much. And things are changing rapidly. Increased plantings of Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah are ongoing. And experimentation with
other vines is increasing. One of the most interesting of these
is with Portugal’s Touriga National that produces top quality
fruit in the Port zone that is uncannily similar in climate and
soil to Priorato.
Much is made of Priorato’s soil and rightly so. The focus
of this is on the “llicorella,” a soil of volcanic
origin with high amounts of mica. Winemakers believe that it is
the “llicorella” that gives the Priorat wines a marked
minerality, elevating them above simply fruity, high alcohol wines.
There is also black slate here which makes the vines dig deep for
water and holds the heat at night. All these soils make for powerful,
high extracted wines.
And don’t forget about Priorato’s white wines, brushed
upon above. One could assert that the most flavorful whites of
Spain are being made here today. They are largely composed of Grenache
Blanc with varying amounts of Macabeo and Parellada. They are small
plantings of Viognier, Chenin Blanc and Pedro Ximenez. Look for
the whites from Mas Igneus, Morlanda, Conferia de Scala Dei (Les
Brugueres) and Cellers Capafons-Osso (Enllac), among many. I predict
you will see a major story about Priorato’s fine whites,
somewhere in the immediate future.
WINERIES TO VISIT
- *Alvaro Palacios, Gratallops, Phone 977 83 91 95
- Celler Cecilio, Piro 30, Gratallops, Phone 977 83 91 81
- *Celler Vall Llach, Del Pont 9, Porrera, Phone 977 82 82 44
- *Cellers Capafons-Osso, Del Bosquet 6, Falset, Phone 977 77 17
93
- Cellers de Scala Dei, Rambla de le Cartoixa, Scala Dei, Phone
977 82 70 27
- *Cims de Porrera, Ctra. Torroja, Porrera, Phone 977 82 81 87
- *Clos Erasmus, La Font 1, Gratallops, Phone 977 83 90 22
- *Clos Mogador, Cami Manyetes, Gratallops, Phone 977 83 91 71
- Costers Del Siurana (Clos de l’Obac), Manyetes,
Gratallops, Phone 977 83 92 76
- De Muller, Mas de Les Pusses, El Molar, Phone 977 75 74 73
- *La Perla del Priorat, Mas dels Frares, El Molar, Phone 977 82
52 02
- *Mas Igneus, Placa Portal, Poboleda, Phone 977 82 70 04
- *Mas Martinet, Falset-Gratallops road, Phone 629 23 82 36
- Vinicola del Priorat, Calle Piro, Gratallops, Phone 977 83 91
67
- Vinicola del Priorat, La Viella Baixa, Phone 639 76 45 59
- Viticultors del Priorat, Mas Subiral, Bellmunt del Priorat, Phone
977 26 22 68
*Appointment crucial for visit
USEFUL ADDRESSES AND PHONE NUMBERS
- Priorat Tourist Office, Sant Marcel 2, Falset, Phone 977 83 10
23, www.priorat.org
- Hostal Sport (hotel), Miguel Barcelo 4, Falset, Phone 977 83 00
78, www.hostalsport.com
- La Font (pension), Consolacio 12, Gratallops, Phone 977 83 92
79
- El Celler de l’Aspic (restaurant), Miguel
Barcelo 31, Falset, Phone 977 83 12 46
- Cellers de Gratallops (restaurant), Piro 32, Gratallops, Phone
977 83 90 36
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