NewsletterSeptember, 2004
Tasting CalendarA three business day cancellation policy is in effect for all tastings. September 29, 6:00 p.m. CLASSIC RED BURGUNDIES AND STELLAR WHITE BURGUNDIESOver the last year, our adoration for Burgundy, red and white, has grown. It seems that few other wines in the world have the finesse and dizzying sensuality of a good Burgundy. So, we propose a tasting to show what we are talking about. We will taste some of the red classics from recent vintages and several of the great 2002 white Burgundies that have just arrived (2002 is thought to be the best vintage since 1990). There will be Gevreys, Pommards, Montrachets, Meursaults and more. La Petite Maison’s brilliant kitchen will provide a light dinner to accompany the wines. The event will kick off at 6:00 p.m. on Wednesday, September 29. The cost is $50.00 per taster (plus tax and service). The seating will be limited, so…if you would like to see what all the Burgundy fuss is about, give us a call soon to reserve your seat (475-9700). October 12th, 6:00 p.mCHARDONNAYS OF THE YEAR: A WORLD TOURWe taste close to 500 chardonnays a year. You might call it "the good, the bad and the ugly." When they are good, they can be sublime. When they are bad or ugly, well…you get the picture. We like a particular style of chardonnay. We like them flinty, apply and with some "terroir." We don’t like butterball, oak bomb or sticky tropical fruit renditions. This year we’ve found many remarkable chardonnays coming from all over the world, not just Burgundy. We propose a tasting of our kind of chardonnays. Yes, some will come from Burgundy, others from the U.S., Australia and New Zealand. The sit-down tasting will happen on Tuesday, October 12th at 6:00 p.m at the Briarhurst Manor. Chef Chip will prepare delectables to taste with the wines. The cost is $29 per taster (plus tax and service). Reservations are required. Come taste chardonnay "our way." October 20th, 6:00 p.m. QUE SYRAH, SHIRAZ…EXPLORATIONS IN THE NEW WORLDForty years ago, you’d have been hard pressed to find a varietal bottling of merlot—from anywhere. Twenty years ago, the same might have been said of syrah. But not anymore. While Hermitage and Côte Rôtie in France’s northern Rhone remain the world’s benchmark for syrah, the grape’s popularity in the New World (it’s known as syrah in California; shiraz in Australia) is at an all-time high. More and more, wine drinkers are pouring the wines in the company of spice-influenced preparations of pork, beef, lamb, poultry and game. And that’s more than enough reason for us to stage a tasting of some of our favorites from California, Washington and Australia. Call us at 475-9700 to reserve a seat at the Wednesday, October 20th event, to be held at the Briarhurst Manor at 6:00 p.m., at a price of $29 per person (plus tax and service). Chef Chip will serve food pairings to accompany the wines. Don’t delay…this one will fill up fast! Wines of the Month2001 Altesino "Rosso di Altesino," Tuscany, Regularly $13.99/Sale $12.99: We know a girl who lives above the Piazza Popolo in Montalcino, whence this wine comes. Here name is Angela, and she is an angel. Angela and her village radiate a sense of contentment and peace. We feel the same in America when we drink this wine. It is a round, happy red that contents us and provides a feeling of security. We suppose you could think of it as a Chianti that’s made north of Montalcino, because it is primarily composed of the same grape, sangiovese. But it has more body weight, color and substance than most Chianti. And you simply aren’t going to find Chianti this good at the price. Try it. We guarantee contentment, maybe even bliss. 2003 Wildhurst Sauvignon Blanc, Lake County, California, Regularly $10.99/Sale $9.99: In general, we advise our faithful congregation to stay away from sauvignon blancs that cost more than $12. Why? Because the makers of these more expensive wines are usually, though not always, trying to transmogrify the grape into chardonnay by aging it in new (and costly) oak barrels. The typical result is a mediocre chardonnay impersonator. Or a "taint"…"taint" sauvignon blanc, "taint" chardonnay. Sauvignon blanc can be a wondrous thing, and this Wildhurst bottling is just that. The wine is intensely aromatic with grapefruit, herbs, minerals and citrus fruit. In the mouth, there are green apple, mineral and fig essences, while the finish is magnificently long. In many ways it is similar to a New Zealand sauvignon blanc, but with a California twist—meaning that there is tad more roundness and less aggressive acidity than the kiwi renditions. New Arrivals1996 Marchese di Gresy Barbaresco, Martinenga, Piedmont, Regularly $45.99/Sale $29.99: What a surprise…to find a Barbaresco from the sublime 1996 vintage and to be able to sell it at this price (the importer must have lost its mind). Alberto di Gresy hasn’t bent over to the international style that demands high extract and lots of oak essences. This is classic Barbaresco, with violets and dried rose in the nose, and cherries and spice on the palate. Though eight years old, and throwing a little sediment, there is plenty of sinew and substance. It shows you why the nebbiolo grape is so revered by people who really know wine. DON’T LET THIS VALUE SLIP AWAY! 2003 Isabel Riesling, Marlborough, $17.99: We hate to be repetitious, but our love for the white wines of New Zealand has no bounds. This is a minerally, mouth-filling wine, more in an Alsatian style than German. It’s crisp, dry, nice and downright delicious. 2001 Brusset Cairanne, Cotes-du-Rhone Villages, $15.99: Of the 16 villages allowed to put their name on a bottle of Cotes-du-Rhone, Cairanne is our favorite, while Rasteau runs a close second. We love the smoke, pepper, body and fire these wines can have; they seem to ignite the flavors in a provençal "daube," goat on a spit, or pizza from one of those itinerant pizza vans that drive all over southern France. This Brusset Cairanne has all this potential, and more. It’s among the finest Cairannes we’ve tasted in the last few years. 2001 Domaine Pesquier, Cotes-du-Rhone, $11.99: Our love for the red wines of the Rhone River valley is similar to our love for New Zealand’s whites…rarely do we find a Rhone red we don’t like. This is a "hunk" of a wine, redolent of smoke, spice and "herbes de Provence." Like most Rhones, the price/quality ratio is awfully hard to beat. 2003 Chateau Beauchene "Les Sens de Syrah," Cotes-du-Rhone, Regularly $12.99/Sale $10.99: Forget about all the pepper and smoke you might associate with Syrah; this bottling stresses the bright, vibrant fruit with just a dash of pepper. There is a more tantalizing interplay of blackberry and black cherry here. The wine’s name, "Les Sens de Syrah," translates into the "the sense of syrah" in English. How appropriate for a wine of such overt sensuality. 2003 Vitiano Bianco, Umbria, $10.99: Those of you who’ve been thriving on Vitiano’s delicious Rosso should check out this white—it is definitely of the same quality level. It’s an unusual yet intriguing blend of viognier, vermentino and verdicchio. Of the wine’s many flavors, melon and stone fruits stand out. Drink it alone or with poultry or fish in a cream sauce. Bauget-Jouette "Cuvee Jouette" Brut, Champagne, Regularly $69.99/Sale $49.99: This is Bauget-Jouette’s luxury cuvée and it is indeed luxurious—the wine’s elegant, satiny mouth-feel is seductive, and its finish virtually infinite. This lesser-known label is vastly superior to many champagnes costing over $100/bottle. 2001 Galante Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, $29.99: In the great scheme of things, this is terrific cabernet for the price. There are many California cabs at twice the price of the Galante; most of them are not nearly as good. This is no monster, but more in a claret style, not unlike a good Bordeaux. The integration of the fruit, oak, and earth is perfection. The Wine Enthusiast gave this wine 90 points, and we are in agreement. 2003 Yalumba Chardonnay "Wild Ferment," Eden Valley, Australia, $14.99: This wine, alone, could give Australian chardonnay a good name. It would be easy to confuse this stellar effort with a fine white Burgundy. Actually, the vine cuttings came from Burgundy and the wine is fermented with wild yeast, as is often the case in France. It’s a sleek wine with impressive complexity. It would be difficult to find a Chardonnay as good as this, at the price, from anywhere. 2002 Saintsbury "Garnet," Pinot Noir, Carneros, $13.99: Here’s a perfectly quaffable pinot from Napa’s cool Carneros region, at a most attractive price. It has everything you might expect…a pretty, red-berry nose followed by cherry and spice in the mouth—and charm in abundance. Steve Tanzer, among the more trustworthy of wine critics, scored it 89; a just rating, we believe. 2002 Clay Station Malbec, Lodi, $9.99: Those of you who have fallen in love with Argentinean malbecs are in for a new sensation—Californian malbec. It’s not as big and not as "smash-mouth" with fruit as some of the South American species. This one’s smooth and drinkable, with the hints of chocolate that you see from the best malbecs around the world. There’s a bottle with your name on it. 2003 Andrew Rich Sauvignon Blanc, "Croft Vineyard," Willamette, Oregon, $15.99: Hard to believe, hard to describe, hard to resist…maybe we should just give up. There is citrus, fig, melon, apple, a hint of pear and almost every other fruit on earth. Try it and see if you can describe it better (or, at least, revel in the process). We are in love. 2002 Andrew Rich Pinot Noir "Cuvee B," Willamette, Oregon, $19.99: What is it with these guys? Nearly every wine they make is superb. This is an ample pinot, brimming with cherry fruit, and neither too oaky nor too high in alcohol. It’s an honest, delicious wine. We are in love—again. 2001 Benessere Zinfandel "BK Collins-Old Vines," Napa, Regularly $21.99/Sale $19.99: Artisan zinfandel here from elderly vines, which produced only 260 cases. It’s rich, but stylish. There is bramble, raspberry, some earth and spice. Almost awesome, you could say. It received a 92 point rating from Wine Enthusiast, which we think is very appropriate. 2003 Bergström Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, Oregon, $21.99: There was a consensus when we tasted this wine…that this was one of the most significant American white wines we had tasted this year. It’s total exotica, with oriental spices, stone fruits and a drop of honey. It can joust successfully with wines made by Deiss, Zind-Humbrecht and Boxler from Alsace; in other words, with the very best. 2002 Martinelli Estate Gewurztraminer, "Dry Select," Russian River Valley, $25.99: Like the above pinot gris, this superb white can spar evenly with its Alsatian counterparts. It might be the finest California gewurztraminer we’ve tasted—formidable in body, but not cloying or sticky. There are about as many flavors here as are available in a Whole Foods produce department, which shows that this hallowed winery, guided by the formidable Helen Turley, can make grand white wines, not just its famous Zinfandels. 2001 Da Vinci Chianti Classico, Tuscany, $13.99: How can you go wrong with a 2001 Tuscan red? It was a sublime vintage. This is dark, richly hued Chianti, with quite a bit of grip. We like it because it tastes like the earth from whence it comes, not a French oak barrel. There is cherry, roasted nuts and that renowned Tuscan dust. For its quality, this is an excellent value. 2002 "Hammlet" Riesling "Feinherb" QbA, Rheingau, $14.99: The name is a play on words, because Hamm is the name of the winery. Also on the label is a sort of pun, "Wein oder nicht sein," which means "wine or not to be." These Germans are becoming uproariously funny. The wine is "sehr gut," with fetching peach aspects and a long finish. It’s just about bone dry and it’s organic. Restaurant AlertTHE BEST LI’L FRENCH-MEX RESTAURANT IN THE SPRINGS,LA PETITE MAISON They call Espiridion Moreno "Pete." He’s the head "vato" in La Petite’s kitchen. He’s just a little "loco," but he’s a magical chef. They call Jeff Mervis "Merv." I call him "Merv the Perv." I won’t go into the derivation of that moniker right now. He’s been running La Petite for 26 years. He’s a little bit "loco," too, but he’s a scrupulous floor general, effortlessly solving problems, complaints and glitches that happen in every restaurant dining room around the world. He also greets customers (one of the most important things for a fine restaurant) with a flair equal to the best eateries in the world. A lot of restaurants haven’t figured out that "what do you want?" or "do you have a reservation?" aren’t the most welcoming and calming first words to be spoken. I spend a lot of time eating here because I like the food. I like Pete and I like Merv. It’s fun to watch their interaction. Where else can you watch a sardonically jolly Hispanic and a brooding Jewish kid from Chicago work like a well-oiled machine? Also, I go there at lunch to be amused by the wit of the waiter, Mattie (known as Mateo in El Salvador, his hang-out). And, I go there at night to ogle the waitresses Jessica, Sarah and Megan. I’m a professional, after all. Another thing that brings me to La Petite is the wine list. It’s not the biggest list in the land—150 wines or so—but it is skillfully selected and reasonably priced. The bottles are marked at about twice the retail tariff, which in the restaurant trade is like they are being given away. I’ve seen some restaurants charge up to seven times the retail price (Al Sorriso, the Michelin three-star in Italy). I can always find an interesting and value-priced wine here. Take lunch. I’ve been hopelessly smitten by the 2003 Txakolina made by Txomín Etxaníz (available at Coaltrain for $16.99). This is a Basque wine produced from vineyards hanging above the Atlantic Ocean. It comes from the village of Getaria, which is about 15 miles west of Donostia (San Sebastian). Txakolina is a dry, white wine with no oak or other frou-frou. As such, it’s a lovely match with seafood or tapas. And it so happens that Pete has two "starters" on his lunch menu that can close the deal: his "sautéed calamari, provençal-style" and "goat cheese-stuffed piquillo peppers." The delicacy of these un-breaded or -battered calamari is remarkable. The synergy of this dish with the wine whets my appetite beyond any possible hope of satiation. The result is similar with the piquillo peppers, which, by the way, are about the closest thing I’ve found to an authentic Spanish tapa in Colorado Springs. I guess it takes a Hispanic chef to do it right. Weather permitting, I will consume these delights on the restaurant’s welcoming patio. It all makes the world look like a better place. Take dinner. The seriousness ramps up a bit: "Merv" replaces his lunchtime black "tee" with a designer shirt and Euro sports coat. Pete dons his formal baseball cap, bill backward, "seguro." This means I will have to abandon my shorts and pull on long pants. It also means I will need to order a red wine with my food. Lately, I’ve been opting for the Rully "Les Cloux" Premier Cru from Paul Jacqueson (also available at Coaltrain for $32.99), an exquisite pinot noir from the seductive 2002 Burgundy vintage. The wine pairs splendidly with every entrée on the dinner menu—I’ve never seen anything like this—though it shines best with the "free-range rosemary chicken breast" and the "duck two ways with butternut squash caponata." As I taste the "starters," soups and salads, I note that Pete is always true to his "vato" roots; that is, he tries to sneak in a little heat here and there. I still remember a squash soup he prepared in his "early" days that was downright blazing. I adored it. "Merv" requested that he turn down the fire a bit. Though I’m not a dessert creature, it is excruciatingly difficult to resist several of Pete’s enticements. My favorite is the hot raspberry cobbler with homemade honey ice cream—the acidic fruit and rich ice cream is a thrilling combo. With this delight, a glass of Calvados is the just and logical conclusion. This is known in France as the "trou Normand," the Norman hole. It’s supposed to clear your stomach out and make you feel like you’ve hardly eaten a crumb—and can eat a lot more. And sometimes I do eat more…and, well, drink more, too. As I shuffle out La Petite’s door, a few minutes (or hours) after the official closing time, I don’t just shout, "vive la France," but also, "vatos locos forever." "French-Mex," I think to myself—what a concept! An Extra Special Effort2000 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir, Evenstad Reserve, Willamette, Oregon, $47.99: Here is the model that all Oregon pinot producers should attempt to recreate. The equilibration of the fruit, oak, tannin and alcohol is perfect; the palate is a festival of flavors, with cherry, plum, blackberry and lingonberry leading the show. In a series of blind tastings, this wine has shown equal to or better than Burgundy’s revered Domaine Romanee-Conti! We know its cost is not low, but believe us when we say that the wine provides an experience worthy of its price tag. Great Australians from the Grateful Palate2001 Marquis Philips "Sarah’s Blend," Southeastern Australia, $15.99: "Sarah" is noted Australian winemaker Sarah Marquis, who, in tandem with husband Sparky and American importer Dan Philips, has created this superb blend of shiraz, cabernet and merlot. Sourced from stellar vineyards in Padthaway and McLaren Vale, this blend is living proof that rich, complex, expressive, opulent wines can be made available for a reasonable price. Plums, cedar, spices, chocolate, herbs and licorice all compete for your attention in this limited-supply beauty. Come in for your share, while it lasts! 2003 Marquis Philips Shiraz, Southeastern Australia, $15.99: Sarah and Sparky have scored again with this complex shiraz, aged 12 months in new American oak. Vanilla and brown spices mingle with ripe, red-berry fruits to create a deliciously juicy, medium-bodied red with a lush, velvety finish. Wine Spectator gave the 2002 a 90 rating and a "Smart Buy" designation. We think buying the just-released 2003 is even "smarter." 2001 Brothers in Arms Shiraz, Langhorne Creek, $32.99: Tom and Guy Adams, the "brothers in arms," are fifth-generation grape growers at Langhorne Creek who have decided to produce their own wine from the same grapes that their family has sold to winemakers since 1891. Their 2001 shiraz is a stunner; a stylish blend of blackberry-cherry fruit, earth, spice, licorice, and chocolate. The wine will easily take another six to eight years of bottle age, but it’s so mind-blowing right now, we doubt that anyone who buys multiple bottles can make any of them last! 2002 Henry’s Drive Cabernet Sauvignon, Padthaway, $31.99: Henry’s Drive is a historic patch of land in the heart of Australia’s storied Padthaway region that’s surrounded by the Longbottom family vineyards. Sarah and Sparky Marquis have taken the exceptional Longbottom fruit and produced from it an extraordinarily satisfying cabernet: aromatic, sexy and stylish, with loads of intense, blackberry-cassis fruit, and nuances of vanilla, cedar and spice. Previous vintages have been multiple gold-medal winners, so it would be wise to latch onto some Henry’s before it’s gone. 2002 Paringa Single Vineyard Shiraz, South Australia, Reg. $11.99, Sale $9.99: David and Dena Hickinbotham’s vineyard lies along the River Murray in South Australia, which winds through vineyards that produce fully half of Australia’s wine. The Hickinbothams are producing lush, spicy, mouth-filling, fruit-driven shiraz at a price that makes it among the great values in importer Dan Philips’ Grateful Palate portfolio. Taking home a case of this wonderful red should not be out of the question. Out of Africa...Wine & FoodAlthough the South African wine industry can be traced back to the 17th Century, it has existed mostly as a curiosity in the international wine community. However, the fall of apartheid and the resulting influx of outside capital into the South African wine industry has changed that. Now there are many small quality-driven wineries in South Africa and you will have an opportunity to taste some of these fine wines on Wednesday, November 3rd at The Craftwood Inn. We’re very fortunate to have John and Theresa Morrison, the importers of these wines, present to guide us through the tasting. John is South African and Theresa, who is American, lived in South Africa for several years. Chef Jeff will prepare some delicious fare to complement the wines. The festivities will begin at 6 pm and the cost is a mere $35 per person plus tax and service. Please call us to reserve your place. Again, this is a sit-down event. |
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COALTRAIN
Wine & Spirits
330 W. Uintah
Colorado Springs, CO 80905
719-475-9700