NewsletterJuly, 2004
Tasting CalendarA three business day cancellation policy is in effect for all tastings. July 29th at 6 p.m. THE WORLD’S MOST DESIRED WINES, SPAIN’S PRIORATOS, AT LA PETITECross out July 29th for any other bibulous adventures. It’s
showtime for some of the world’s most sought after wines...the
Prioratos of Spain’s Catalunya region. The heralded 2001s
have arrived and they are worthy of the wine critics’ unbridled
raves. The wines are rare and, yes, they can be spendy. We will
taste bottles like the exotic Vall Llach, Doix Salanques, Les Terrasses
and the mammoth Finca Dofi. We will also taste some older vintages
to see how the wines age. To accompany these libations, La Petite’s
wizardly kitchen will prepare a light dinner. The tasting will begin
at 6 p.m. on the 29th. The price per taster is $69 (plus sales tax
and tip). To ensure the quality and integrity of the event, the
number of tasters will be strictly limited. Please call us at 475-9700
for reservations or more information. BEER TASTING AT BRISTOLAs you may know, we love beer here at Coaltrain. Our selection
is rich with the most favored beers from around the world, as well
as seasonal and special releases from the hottest breweries in the
country. Not only do we have the selection in town, we also have
the knowledge and experience to talk about beer with the respect
and intelligence these beers deserve. Okay, let’s drink beer.
On Monday, August 9th we are hosting a spectacular beer tasting
at Bristol Brewing. We will be offering about 25 of our favorite
brews, including Dogfish Head, Stone Brewing, Avery, and a whole
slew of great Belgian ales. The tariff is delightfully affordable
at $20 per taster. Appetizers to complement our suds, will be provided,
so see ya at 1647 S. Tejon at 6:30pm on August 9th. Please call
us to reserve your chance to taste the best beers around, 475-9700. AMERICAN WINE “ORPHANS” TASTING“Orphans, you say?” Yes, those would be varieties that are not in the “mainstream,” the ones that often get short shrift on restaurant wine lists and retail shelves; wines made from varieties like marsanne, pinot blanc, viognier, pinot gris, roussanne and chenin blanc in the white spectrum, and grenache, mourvedre, nebbiolo, grignolino, sangiovese and syrah in the red. We’ve assembled a stellar line-up of “orphans” from outstanding producers in California, Washington and Oregon for your tasting pleasure, and trust that you will be as dazzled as we were when we first tasted each of these delights. Join us for a sit down tasting on Tuesday, August 17th, at 6:00pm at The Briarhurst Manor . Substantial appetizers will be provided. Cost is a ridiculously low $29 per person, so call us today at 475-9700 to reserve your place. Wines of the Month2001 Tres Bagos, Douro (Portugal), $13.99: You may have noted the extended interval of time between this newsletter and the last. Part of this is because of the difficulty of finding a red wine of the month equal in greatness of the last two (2001 Brigaldara Valpolicella and 2001 Mas Donis). This is it. It comes from the Douro River Valley of Portugal, where Port is made. This is only the second vintage. We tasted the first, 2000, in Porto and it dazzled us. But we couldn’t get any of it to Colorado. But rejoice, we were able to get the 2001 and it is as good, maybe even better. The wine is made from the principal grapes used for Port (Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca and Tinta Roriz). It was made by modern methods and aged in 225 liter French wood barrels. The result is a marvel of harmony, between the fruit, tannin, alcohol, and acid. In the mouth, one is greeted by red fruits, subtle vanilla and soft tannins on the finish. It is certainly not a monster, $100 Douro red which is why we like it so much. By the way, these Douro wines are sought after as intensely as the Priorato wines (the darlings of wine connoisseurs). Thus the supply of Tres Bagos is finite. Meaning, get it quick. 2003 A to Z Pinot Gris, Oregon, $12.99: Being
so long winded on the above New Arrivals2000 Gramona Cava, La Suite, $16.99: In a blind
tasting, held by our 2002 Big Ass Cab, Napa, Regularly $16.99/Sale $14.99: Yes, you are seeing it right.”Big Ass Cab.” We put it in despite the name because the wine is excellent. It is a hunk of big, fleshy Cabernet Sauvignon. We can hardly think of anything better for the price. But, you must be totally confident about the girth of your posterior to buy this or have a very good sense of humor. 2000 Wellington Syrah, Regularly $18.99/Sale $12.99: They are doing some incredible work with Syrah in California. Syrah is a grape with a long history in France, having been introduced to the Rhone River valley in 400 B.C. by the Greeks. Now it is flourishing in many parts of the world. This bottling is a polished example of what the grape can give. It has a fleshy and plum-like character. It is not as spicy and smoky as some Syrahs. If you have not experienced Syrah, this would be a good introduction. 2000 Blackjack Ranch Chardonnay, Santa Barbera County, $14.99: There is a story about this winery involving gambling that we have forgotten (we tend to forget all gambling experiences). But, we won’t forget this wine. It tastes like a 1er cru Chablis or first class Pouilly Fuisse, meaning that there is noticeable acidity and pure Chardonnay fruit. Perhaps there is hope for the Golden State’s Chardonnays, after all. 2001 Beau Verall Merlot, Russian River Valley, $14.99: Yes, this is the creation of the media superstar and reverend, Brisco C. Culpepper. Oh, if he’s not on Letterman or dining with David Beckham and Posh of the Spice Girls, he’s blending his wine. He’s devoted to his lot in life (the rest of us are resigned to our lot in life). And Brisco has done us well with this full flavored Merlot. Seriously, check this stuff out. 2001 Sierra Cantabria Rioja, $9.99: As Brisco C. Culpepper, from above, might proclaim, “Lordy, this is righteous stuff.” It’s round and full of vanilla from the oak aging. The fruit is big enough to handle the oak. It shows you just how good a year 2001 was in Rioja. We can’t wait to taste some of the big boys (reservas), due to arrive soon. 2001 Mas Doix Salanques Priorato, $29.99: My God is this good. And it’s just Doix’s “intro” wine from the fab 2001 vintage in this part of Spain, west of Tarragona. We couldn’t get any of the top wine which markets for about $100/bottle. But we drank the 2000 of it in the great Restaurant Sant Pol de Mar, north of Barcelona in October. It so impressed us that we would buy anything this winery makes with no questions. The wine is made from Grenache, Carignan and a drop of Merlot. It explodes with fruit so you can drink it tonight or store it a few years. GET THIS WINE. 2000 Flor de Pingus, Ribera del Duero, Regularly $49.99/Sale $39.99: We seem to be on a Spanish roll here. Why not? They are some of the world’s finest wines. This is another big boy bursting with toast, cedar and cassis on the nose. The flavors are dark fruits and vanilla. Though big, the tannins are soft. So you can drink this now. We’d like it with a thick lamb chop off the grill. 2001 Tablas Creek Vineyard, Cotes de Tablas, $24.99: From the Perrin family of Chateauneuf du Pape renown. This is from their California operation that focuses on Rhone varietals. It is a classic Rhone blend of Mourvedre, Syrah, Granache and Counoise. It is full of all sorts of flavor facets. There is nothing clumsy or blunt. We are impressed. 2000 Spencer & Roloson, Palaterra, $14.99: Now, if you don’t want to spend $25 on the above wine, but want similar results, try this wine. It is another Rhone blend from California. Like the Tablas Creek, it provides a pleasing matrix of fruit and berry flavors that are in harmony. It is just a little less intense than the Tablas Creek. The Spencer part of the winemaking team went to Colorado College. 2002 Chiroubles, Domaine Cheysson, $15.99: A member of Burgundy’s talented class of 2002. This is, of course, Beaujolais which people often forget is a part of Burgundy, a beautiful part. The wine is dark with cherry aromas. On the tongue it gives red and some black fruits. It has that Chiroubles placid temper. It would be ideal on a warm summer eve, slightly chilled. 2000 Paolletti Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Bella Novello, Napa Valley, $18.99: The virgin voyage for us with this winemaker. The vineyards are in the “sweet spot” of Napa, around Calistoga. The wine is a velvety, easy drinking Cabernet that wins you with its lack of huff and bluster. When we tasted it, we said, “This is how a wine should taste charming, not challenging. 2001 Clos Chanteduc, Cotes du Rhone, $15.99: We would hope that anyone who ever visited Paris brought along a copy of Patricia Well’s “The Food Lovers Guide to Paris.” It is one of the best food/travel books yet printed. This is the first offering from Patricia’s wine operation on the Rhone River. The wine is a combination of fruits, herbes de Provence and a bit of “garrigue.” You could do no better in any of the Parisian “bistrots a vin” that Patricia describes so colorfully and accurately in her book. 2002 Champalou Vouvray, $14.99: Perhaps the finest Vouvray we have tasted, better than some of Huet’s great bottles. We’re talking “sec” (dry) Vouvray. This has a delicious Granny Smith apple aspect to it. It is made, of course, from Chenin Blanc, but it seems to have both Riesling and Chardonnay essences in the mouth. One sip demands another and another. 2002 Rosa del Golfo Rose, $11.99: Year in and year out, the best rose made in Italy. It comes from the Salento zone in southern Italy. What makes it shine is the complexity of flavors. It gives you things like rhubarb, mandarin orange and strawberry pie. 2000 Ceretto Bricco Roche Barolo, Prapo, $65.99: At our March tastings in the Ceretto winery, outside of Alba, this wine made a stunning debut. It was our second favorite of the ten or so wines tasted. It has unique mandarin orange and chocolate notes in the nose. In the mouth, there are dark fruits and earth, along with the tannin you expect from a Serralunga commune Barolo, which it is. My notes conclude, “This is the bomb.” Our favorite wine of that tasting would cost $150, which is another reason we opted for this. 2002 Cline Cellars “Red Truck” Red, California, $9.99: The label seems to say it all about this new “feel good” red blend from Sonoma’s Cline Cellars, which features mourvèdre-a major player in the wines of the Languedoc-with a supporting cast of syrah, cabernet, alicante bouschet and pinot noir, among others. The result? Aromas and flavors of cherry, blueberry, vanilla and chocolate, along with a hint of pepper, roll into a smooth, satisfying finish. We won’t be surprised if it becomes your new “house” wine. An Extra Special Effort2001 Vall Llach Priorato, $75.99: When you taste this you understand why these Spanish Priorat wines are among the world’s most sought after red wines. Supporting that idea, 85% of this wine is sold outside of Spain. Incredibly, the winery has only been operating since 1997. But that is not unusual for this burgeoning wine zone. The winery is the brainchild of the beloved Catalan singer, Luis Llach. This is a hugely extracted wine with ripe black fruit essences in the nose and on the tongue. There is a lot of oak, but the fruit intensity can handle it. It’s an interesting blend of grapes for Priorato, where interesting blends are de rigueur. It is roughly equal parts of Merlot and Carignan with a drop of Cabernet Sauvignon. For anyone serious about wine, a taste of this is an absolute necessity. Out of Africa—South Africa, That is! Over the last decade, the quality of South Africa’s Cape
wines has improved dramatically. Since the deregulation of the wine
industry in the early 1990s and the lifting of sanctions against
South Africa, interest in the wines have flourished worldwide. Modern
vineyard management techniques and the international experience
of the winemakers have yielded a wide range of delicious, complex
wines. South African wines are bottled either as single varietals
or classic blends. And because there is no broad grouping of wine
types with similar characteristics (as in Chablis, Burgundy or Chianti,
for example) purchasing South African wines requires a sound knowledge
of the reputation of each varietal, estate and vintage-and that’s
where we come in! The glories of South African wines are just beginning
to be appreciated by American wine lovers, much to the delight of
the country’s vintners. If it’s been awhile since you’ve
had a South African wine, it is time to try another; if you’ve
never had one, there’s no time like the present. We have no
doubt you’ll be delighted! 2001 Blaauklippen Zinfandel, Vineyard Selection, Stellenbosch, S.A., $20.99: Established in 1682, Blaauklippen (“blue rocks”) was the first estate to plant vineyards in the foothills of the Stellenbosch mountains. Well-known and appreciated in South Africa, the wines of Blaauklippen are now available for the first time in Colorado, and the estate’s zinfandel-one of the few produced outside California-will be making lots of friends with its expansive aromas of violets and vanilla, and its rich layers of spicy black cherry, cranberry, pepper, cedar and toast. Dig into a bottle today! 1997 Welgemeend Estate Reserve Red, Paarl, S.A., $15.99: In 1979, the small Welgemeend (“good intentions”) estate in Paarl, introduced South Africa’s first blend of the traditional Bordeaux varieties cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc. Today, winemaker Louise Hofmeyr still uses the traditional wooden basket press to craft a red of elegance and finesse, exhibiting layers of raspberry, plum, violet, mineral, green olive and tobacco leaf. The finish is as complex and lingering as you are likely to find. 2003 Graham Beck “Pinno” Pinotage, Western Cape, S.A., $9.99: Now in its third generation of ownership, Graham Beck produces this accessible, fruit-forward red from twenty-year-old vines in the Western Cape region. Fermented in stainless steel to retain its cherry-plum fruit, the wine is laced with elements of spice, cedar and red earth that make it the perfect foil for cassoulet or baby back ribs. Spanish Favorites2002 Borja “Borsao” Campo de Borja, Spain, $7.49: Agricola Borja, the producer of this Borsao and several other inexpensive Spanish reds that fly off our shelves, is among the world’s great-value wineries. And this 75-25 blend of garnacha and tempranillo-with its rich texture, soft tannins and bright acidity-is all about value. The wine’s elements of plums, blackberries, cherries, orange zest, pepper, vanilla and spice are so inviting, that roast legs of lamb everywhere are calling its name! 2000 Finca Allende Rioja, Spain, $21.99: Though a relative newcomer to the world of Rioja, Allende’s appearance in Wine Spectator’s Top 100 list for 2003 puts this entrancing red on the international wine map. A modern-style Spanish red that’s muscular but graceful, this beauty bursts with enough fruit (plums, blueberries, cherries), spices (licorice, nutmeg) and lavish oak to mask its powdery tannins and, at the same time, accompany grilled meats and full-flavored cheeses with panache. The World’s Wackiest Wine Bars (Third in the Series)MEL’S BAR AND GRILL, DEFINING A NEIGBORHOODCherry Creek (Denver)-Judging by what you see in traffic, cars here don’t run unless the driver’s cell phone is running. And these cell phones are normally connected to goliath SUVs or splashy German machines. These autos circle the neighborhood, like vultures, looking for one of the prized parking places. Certainly the drivers can’t walk three blocks from their townhouses. They are so tired and stressed. Some have just come from the gym, after a workout with their personal trainers. This is Cherry Creek. Mel’s Bar and Grill has been watering and feeding these delicate folk since about 1993. It seems that Melvyn Master and his wife Janie have been here forever to me. In a neighborhood where most businesses are lucky to last two years, they are an institution. And they do a good job, preparing French bistro-type food that would be hard to beat in Nice or Paris. And they pour nice wines. There are 25 by the glass and 100 or so by the bottle. They come from all parts of the world, but the best are French. You see, Mel lived some years in Provence. Melvyn provides good food and drink, but that is not the only reason for his success. Another is that he can soothe and satisfy all the anorexics, bulimics, neurotics, paranoiacs, egomaniacs and budding white collar criminals that come into his bar. Mel’s is the nexus for all these Cherry Creek types. Melvyn is a genius. Consider the ordinary day. The cast changes radically from lunch to afternoon to dinner. Lunch: For someone from Colorado Springs, the first shocking thing is that some diners here will drink wine with lunch, not ice tea. You see, these Denver people are true environmentalists and realize that ice tea wastes our scarce water. But the wine they drink is not all that brilliant. It is usually Chardonnay, meaning an oaky California product or Mel's own, lighter Tortoise Creek. I normally opt for a glass of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Or whatever looks inviting. Usually the lunch people dine in couples. And it seems to be a male or female couple, but mixed sex lunches do hold 20 percent or so of the tables. If the table is all male or mixed sex the lunch is probably a "power lunch," for business purposes. Well, if it is a male and female table it could be an "I'm sorry thing." If the table is all female, it is either a celebration of a birthday, getting a promotion or some personal achievement . If not those options, the girls are here to attack the boys. That means the boyfriends and male bosses are in trouble. I find these conversations to be the most entertaining and try to situate myself at the bar in ear shot of several tables. Sloth and lackluster hygiene seem to start the condemnations of the boys. And it always concludes with lack of fidelity or lack of romantic interest (at least, for the aggrieved woman). I normally consume a hot goat cheese salad or, in the spring, the grilled asparagus with goat cheese. My beloved bartendress, Julie, has left to sell health bars with one of her old Mel's customers. She would give me free glasses of wine. "This one is on the house my poor, pitiful friend," she would taunt me. Now a blonde, young woman works the bar, named Denise. She never gives me anything on the house. She just neglects to charge for it on the final bill. Justice! Afternoon: Things can get brutal. About 4 p.m.
some of the neighborhood "soaks" show-up. These guys appear
to be in the initial stage of retirement and are still figuring
out how to kill a day with no work. They seem to be ex-real-estate
agents or maybe stockbrokers. They keep one eye on the TV screen
over the bar with a ribbon of stock market quotes sliding by the
bottom. And they keep the other eye on the look-out for women. They
will make casual comments about the market and juvenile, occasionally
amusing, comments about the women passing by. They are like 14-year-olds.
They don't drink wine. Their drink of choice seems to be light beer.
I suppose they are trying to preserve some essence of a "figure."
Things get a little hot when the woman they call "the blonde
*****" shows up. She is a woman of "d' age certain,"
as the French delicately put it. She normally dresses in black with
gold jewelry hanging from all the usual places. She seems hardened
to the abuse these guys can level. Questions like, "huh, alimony
check came in," or "pool boy's day off" ring around
the bar. She always has a sassy retort that usually has to do with
the thickness of the men's bellies and the thinness of their wallets
or some piece of anatomy. She will have a Martini, stay a half hour
and leave. The men will pad off slowly, later. I've seen them entering
other bars or wandering around, Dinner: Focus on the family. Dinner is the least volatile, most "normal" time in Mel's. You see a lot of Cherry Creek families then. The booths, on the periphery of the dining room, will be in demand for families of four or more. During the week, there appear to be a lot of families where both parents work. It seems such because the adults look to be wearing their "sincere duds." The kids will be wearing designer grunge togs like baggy pants, baggy shirts and baseball hats, of course. It's all kind of "white bread" middle-class America. But it's an uplifting scene, fairly well behaved, though the kids will play with plastic straws or French fries and joust amongst each other. Mel is smart to keep some hamburgers and French fries available for the kids, along with his "Amazing Entrees" for the adults. These entrees include delicious duck, pork, salmon and mussel dishes, some of which cost nearly $30. Only a friend of mine's son seems to dig the restaurants mussels, a sort of signature dish at lunch and dinner. Fittingly it is a dinner that you are most likely to run into Mel or Janie. It is family time, after all. And I believe the two have been married over 30 years (a sure record for Cherry Creek). From the perspectives of food, wine, business and social significance, Mel's Bar and Grill is the perfect operation. As I said above, Melvyn is a genius. |
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COALTRAIN
Wine & Spirits
330 W. Uintah
Colorado Springs, CO 80905
719-475-9700