NewsletterFebruary, 2004
Tasting Calendar1st Thursday of each month 1ST THURSDAY TASTING SERIES AT THE FINE ARTS CENTERCoaltrain has begun hosting tastings at the FAC’s revamped 1st Thursday gathering on, naturally, the 1st Thursday of each month. This is more a social event than an educational one, but we will be available to talk with anyone who wishes more information on the beverages. The March event will cover Australian wines, but the tastings will not always be wine. We are planning on doing fine beer and spirit tastings also. The March 4th tasting will be $8 for FAC members and $12 for non-members. The event is from 5pm-7:30pm, the tasting portion will begin at 5:30pm. Reservations are not required. February 25th, 6:30 p.m. NAPA VALLEY WINE DINNER AT WALTER’S BISTROConsider the following menu: lobster and brie with truffle cream, pan-roasted wild striped bass with sweetbread-potato hash and orange beurre blanc, prosciutto-wrapped squab breast with grilled portobello mushrooms and rocket greens, roasted Kobe beef strip loin with herb butter, and fresh raspberries and sabayon. Consider wines from Clos Pegase, Silverado, Burgess Fisher, Girard and Schramsberg. Consider the ambience of Walter’s Bistro and the talents of owner Walter Iser and chef Ryan Blanchard. Now consider whether you can resist attending the Napa Valley wine dinner on Wednesday evening, February 25th, 6:30 p.m., at Walter’s, co-sponsored by your favorite wine source, Coaltrain. The price, at $70.00 per person (plus tax and tip), is yet another excruciatingly excellent value. March 3rd, 6 p.m. LA MERENDA AT LA PETITE MAISON WITH THE WINES OF KERMIT LYNCHHow do the “Nicoise” (women of Nice) stay so thin and lovely? They eat and drink right. They have “la merenda” (healthy, delicious snacks) and the equally healthful and delicious southern French wines. For eating, there is of course the “salade Nicoise” (Nice salad) we see imitated in America. There is “pissaladiere” (onion tart), “courgettes” (squash blossoms fried in batter) and “pan bagnat” (a tiny sandwich of tomatoes, raw vegetables and slices of hard boiled eggs). This is the “roi de la merenda” (king of the merenda). That’s just the start. And, it’s a start that put an idea in our heads… “Why not have La Petite’s invincible chef, Pete Moreno, produce some Nicoise dishes? And we’ll get some southern French wines from Kermit Lynch (the top importer of that realm) to go with the food. Yeah, ‘pourquoi pas?’” This will take place March 3rd, starting at 6 p.m. The tasting charge is $35/person (plus service and tip). We will probably limit the number of tasters to 20, so call us soon to reserve your spaces (475-9700). Hope you can come on this new foray into food and wine land. March 12th, at 6:00 p.m. FORTIFIED WINES (SHERRY, PORT, MADEIRA) AT BRIARHURST MANORWe thought it would be a wonderful idea to kick off our 2004 slate of tastings and simultaneously close out winter (calendar-wise), with a sampling of some of our favorite wines—the great fortified elixirs of Spain and Portugal. We begin with fino and amontillado sherries from Andalusia’s Jerez de la Frontera, visit the Portuguese island of Madeira for a little rainwater and malmsey, and finish with the wines of Oporto—tawny, late-bottled vintage and vintage ports. Married to Chip’s superb cuisine, it promises to be a very warm and cozy evening in Manitou. Mark Friday evening, March 12th, at 6:00 p.m. on your calendar now (the tariff is $35.00 per person, plus tax and tip), and give us a call at 475-9700 to reserve yourself a place at Briarhurst’s table of supernatural delights! April 1st, at 6:00 p.m. PINOT NOIRS FROM OREGON AND CALIFORNIA AT THE CRAFTWOODIt is the sulkiest, trickiest, most tempestuous fine wine grape in the world; the prima donna who misses an opening night because she has a headache; the debutante who won’t come to her own party because her horoscope isn’t favorable enough. It is the pinot noir. There is no wine that’s more assiduously craved, more tirelessly sought, or more difficult to track down than good pinot noir; but when it’s good, it’s good beyond measure: startling, exciting, passionate, the most intensely exotic sensation that red wine has to offer. And we hope to offer you that—and more—for the reasonable cost of $42.00 (per person, plus tax and tip) on Thursday night, April 1st, at 6:00 p.m., at The Craftwood Inn. Chef Jeff Knight is preparing one of his more memorable menus for the evening, so call us at 475-9700 to make your reservation while there’s still room! March 30th and April 6th, 6-8 pm. WINE 101: THE ESSENTIALS OF WINEThis popular, two-session wine course is taught by wine specialist, John Meredith, who has spent nearly three decades in wine and is widely considered one of the West’s leading writers and lecturers on wine, food and travel. John will cover all of the basics in the world of wine, from tasting and buying, to storing, serving, and matching wines with food. The course will be held at La Baguette in Old Colorado City on consecutive Tuesdays, March 30th and April 6th, from 6 to 8 pm. Since you will taste a total of 16 wines from around the world—along with some tasty finger foods—during the sessions, the $45.00 per person charge for the course is a tremendous value. Call us today at 475-9700 to reserve your place at the “altar” of wine and “alter” your wine perspective forevermore. Wines of the Month2002 Allimant-Laugner Muscat, Regularly $15.99/Sale $13.99: This maker is one of the lesser-known greats of Alsace. And this might well be the finest Alsatian muscat that we have ever tasted. (Yes, finer than muscats from superstars like Deiss and Zind-Humbrecht.) It offers the huge floral nose you expect from the muscat grape; but what makes it soar above the pack is its texture and satin mouth-feel. This is the certain result of the winemaker’s talent and the greatness of the 2002 vintage in Alsace. We can’t wait to try this utterly exotic wine with some exotic Eastern cuisine (monkey brains excluded). 2001 Celler de Capcanes “Mas Donis” Montsant, $12.99: A new appellation for Mas Donis (Montsant) and the best wine we have tasted yet under this label. Though we have been pleased with the previous vintages, this one appears to have the greatest harmony, as the wine’s fruit, tannin, oak and alcohol are in perfect balance. The wine is a blend, but is primarily composed of the Grenache grape. Cherry and dried fruit essences abound. There is some tannin, but it is soft. The wine is totally lapidary. We cannot imagine a better wine for the price New Arrivals2000 Burgess Zinfandel, Napa, $13.99: Intense aromas
and generous fla vors are the hallmarks of this zin, produced from
30-year-old
vines on Tom 2002 Willakenzie Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, Oregon, Regularly $16.99/Sale $15.99: Planted a decade ago, the vines that produce this delightful white are grafted from clones of pinot gris from France’s Alsace, and it shows in the intensity and complexity of the wine. Elements of ripe pear, lime, pineapple and orange blossom, along with superb acidity, roundness and an implicit sweetness, provide a wonderful-and refreshing-drinking experience. 2001 Patricia Green Pinot Noir, Shea Vineyard, Willamette Valley, Regularly $37.99/Sale $27.99: A very pretty Oregon pinot, bursting with cherries and red berries, all held together nicely by the appropriate oak frame. For its style and quality, this is a remarkable price. 2002 Macon-Villages, Chartron Trebuchet, Regularly $12.99/Sale $11.49: This is a dandy-not to mention crisp and lively-refreshment. It has Granny Smith apple, mineral and citric aspects. If you want to taste pure Chardonnay, get this. The 2002 vintage was sublime in Burgundy and the Chartron Trebuchet Macon shows it. 2000 Folie a Deux Zinfandel, Amador County, $15.99: Raspberry, spice, a little cedar and other nice things the zinfandel grape gives us. This is a worthy successor to the delightful 1999 Folie a Deux Zin, carrying, as it does, more complexity than is typically found in zinfandels in this price range. 1999 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico, Regularly $36.99/Sale $28.99: Castello di Ama is among the classier houses in the Chianti zone; both power and finesse are the trademarks here, and are present in abundance. Sure the price is steep, but it’s worth it in this world of wine. Judge it against a Bordeaux or California red at the same price. 2001 Argiolas Perdera, Regularly $9.99/Sale $8.99: This Sardinian producer always seems to provide tasty wines at great prices. Here we have a round, medium-bodied wine with soft plum essences. We’re curious how it would taste upon one of Sardinia’s renowned nude beaches. 2002 Estancia Pinot Grigio, California, Regularly $13.99/Sale $12.49: We have expressed our admiration for this wine several times before. It has a bit more body than most Italian pinot grigios. And there is just an innuendo of butter that makes it a terrific candidate for foods like chicken, pork roast or Sardinian octopus. 2001 Hanenhof Red, Barossa Valley Regularly $16.99/Sale $14.99: A Bordeaux-style blend with cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc. It’s a round, velvety wine, with pleasing chocolate notes in the nose and in the mouth. While not as extracted as most Australian reds, this blend is more fruit-forward than classic Bordeaux—kind of a happy medium. We’ll bet you can’t find a Bordeaux superior to this at the price! 2002 Cartlidge & Browne Pinot Noir, California, $10.99: A small miracle here. Most pinot noir is expensive, because it’s a tough grape to work with and get right. This is a correct, medium-bodied pinot that washes your palate with likeable cherry flavors-nothing nasty or medicinal like many in the “under $15” category. Germany’s Glory Years ...2001 & 2002We have never seen anything from Germany like the 2001 and 2002 vintages. The old-timers say you must go all the way back to 1976 to find enough to have a few of those ‘76s offered to us to enjoy at a later time (bribes we assume). And it was wines such as those that got us into the wine business (bribes we assume). You might rightly ask, “Why are the 2001 and 2002 Germans so good?” To summarize what the “old-timers” have told us, it’s like this— “The grapes came in healthy and unusually ripe, but with sufficient acid to off-set that ripeness. The resulting wines have concentrated flavors, but with good balancing acidity. This acidity should allow the wines to mature and evolve into things greater than they already are.” In general, 2002 is more esteemed than the great 2001. This is because 2002 was superb across all eleven German wine zones. In other words, it’s hard to go wrong with any 2002 German wine. And from what we’ve tasted, it is hard to suffer with any 2001 wine, as well. Here are some of our favorites, among the dozens we currently stock: 2001 Valckenberg Riesling Trocken, Rheinhessen, $11.99: Perhaps the perfect introductory bottle for one curious to experience what all the enthusiasm is about. The wine is off-dry with a just a touch of sweetness, lots af appley, melon-laced fruit, and a crisp finish. 2001 Hans Lang, Hattenheim Hassel Riesling, Erstes Gewachs, Rheingau, $33.99: “Erstes Gewachs” is a recently established, super-premium level of German wines. For a riesling, this is rather unusual, carrying honey and butter aspects. In some ways, it reminds you more of a white from Hermitage in France’s northern Rhone. 2002 Karl Erbes, Urziger Wurtzgarten Riesling Spatlese, Mosel, $14.99: An expansive bouquet of slate, gardenias, earth and apricots will beckon you on to the full, luscious flavors of this excellent riesling from a lesser-known but value-conscious vintner. Good acidity curbs the sweetness in the wine, making it flexible enough for dishes that range from trout amandine and quiche to country-style pork ribs. 2002 Robert Weil, Rheingau Spatlese, $23.99: Robert Weil is a hero among German wine connoisseurs. The awesome depth, superb concentration and incredible balance of this wine will make it abundantly clear as to why. 2002 Richard Knebel, Winninger Rottgen Spatlese, Mosel, $15.99: This gem from an obscure producer on the lower Mosel offers considerable delicacy, along with ripe apple, lemon zest and vanilla in both nose and mouth. Elegant and polished, the wine finishes crisp and fresh, with a refined richness of minerals and citrus fruit. (Most of this wine is sold to private customers at Knebel’s winery.) 2002 Prinz zu Salm “Schloss Wallhausen” Riesling Kabinett, Nahe, $15.99: Apricots, orange blossom, vanilla and almonds characterize the bouquet of this subtle and elegant wine. Creamy and satiny in texture, it is nonetheless shot through with persistent-but not sharp-acidity. Vanilla cream, slate and almond oil-like flavors flow into the finish of this eminently satisfying kabinett from the Nahe. It’s a beauty! 2002 Karthauserhof Riesling Kabinet, Ruwer, $15.99: Clear and bright, with fresh lime and lemon blossom on the nose and a steely, slatey firmness underlying its juicy, spiced-apple fruit, this yet another exquisite-and reasonably priced-effort in a superb vintage from one of the Mosel’s more distinguished properties. Every 2002 we’ve tasted from these guys has been impressive. 2002 Kruger-Rumpf Munsterer Rheinberg Riesling Kabinett, Nahe $15.99: From one of the masters of the overlooked Nahe region comes this deliciously soft, off-dry riesling, with complex notes of white peach, tangerine, rose petal and wildflower. The lush, creamy finish of this versatile white will have you calling for more. 2002 Donnhoff Estate Riesling QbA, Nahe, $17.99: A brilliant producer in the Nahe and one of the most revered names in all of Germany. A bottle of this estate-grown riesling will demonstrate clearly what the buzz is all about-at a reasonable price (reasonable, at least, for a Donnhoff wine). Carpe diem. 2001 Jacob Schneider, Niederhausen Riesling Kabinett, Nahe, $13.99/liter: One last wine from the Nahe, and one that offers the kind of spiced apple essences and lifting acidity ideal for “house” wine status. And it’s organically made. 2002 Leitz, Rudesheimer Magdalenenkreuz Riesling Spatlese, Rheingau, Regularly $17.99/Sale $16.99: To find a Leitz wine at this price approaches incredulity. The wine simply explodes with ripe apple, dried apricot, peach and tropical fruit flavors. Its “zingy” acid, however, makes it finish nearly dry, which is somewhat surprising for a spatlese. This baby is “the bomb.” 2002 Leitz, Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg Spatlese, Rheingau, $31.99: This is one of Leitz’s heavy hitters. It’s a bit tight right now, but it’s both intense and acutely focused. This is for German wine lovers with a good cellar and a little patience. A very sophisticated “fraulein,” for sure. 2002 Merkelbach, Urziger Wurzgarten Spatlese, Mosel, $15.99: Well, you certainly get the spice from the Wurzgarten (German for “spice garden”) vineyard in this delicious, lushly fruited, value-laden white. It’s the perfect wine for spring afternoons. Crazy CanucksCanadian wine, eh? Is somebody trying to snooker us? No, they can grow grapes and make wine up there in that hyperborean wasteland (sorry neighbors). Actually, they make wine in most of the lower provinces. Here we’re talking about the province of British Columbia, where there is a sheltered valley, the Okanagan, that’s been making tasty little wines for decades. The problem is that few of these wines make it down to our “tropical paradise.” If any Coloradoans tasted the wines, it was usually while heli-skiing in the Monashees or Bugaboos, or while visiting Vancouver on the way to Whistler Mountain. But now, a sojourn northward is not required, because a brave and wise Colorado importer is bringing some of the Canadian wines to us. The wines we’re offering for your enjoyment are made by Mission Hill Family Estate. The winery tends 700 acres of vines in different sites around the Okanagan Valley. Different vineyard sites are more suitable for different varietals (as one would suppose). And, significantly, most of the varietals being grown are the top vitis vinifera types, not hybrids, as in many cool climates. The valley’s temperate climate, low rainfall (13 inches annually) and 2000 hours of sunshine each year allow for that. The wines are shockingly good. To spare you more tedious “info,” we’ll give a quick description of the Mission Hill Family wines we have in the store now. We think you will be impressed once you’ve taste them. 2002 Mission Hill Pinot Gris Reserve, $13.99: Fetching melon, apricot, white peach and a melange of other fruit flavors with just a hint of white pepper, characterize this superb “gris.” It is clearly superior to all but the best of the international competition. 2002 Mission Hill Pinot Blanc, $13.99: No dull, lifeless pinot blanc here; this is crisp and refreshing, with an enchanting combination of white grapefruit, melon and banana nuances in both nose and mouth; it’s rich and round, with a soft, lingering finish. 2000 Mission Hill Syrah, $19.99: This brings some of the stylish aspects of French syrah and the boldness of Australian shiraz together in a wine that is distincitively different than either—yet no less enticing. An “eye-opening” red from north of the border. 2002 Mission Hill Late-Harvest Riesling, $18.99/500ml: The pinpoint sugar-acid balance and incredible richness of honeyed, pear-like fruit in this cold-climate riesling make it a “can’t miss” dessert wine. Could easily contend with some German ausleses An Extra Special Effort2001 Larkin Cabernet Franc, Napa Valley, $64.99: Every now and then, someone makes a wine of such distinction and quality that it must be singled-out and lauded. This is one of those standouts, made by Bob Foley of Pride winery renown. It is one of the most memorable versions of cabernet franc we have yet tasted. For those unfamiliar with this grape, it is something like cabernet sauvignon, but generally more velvety and less tannic-which means it can be consumed sooner. Cabernet franc is one of the five grapes used to make Bordeaux and some of the finest Bordeaux, like Cheval Blanc, are made mainly from the grape. The wine is medium to full-bodied and absolutely gushes with red berry fruit; the oak, tannin and acid are in perfect balance. All of which is good, but what sent us to the moon is the seemless aspect of the wine; it’s like licking fine silk. “Uncle Bob” (Parker) scored it 92 and was, like us, completely seduced. The Wackiest Wine Bars in the World (First in the Series)QUESOS Y VINOANTIGUA, GUATEMALA—Before we get into the cheese and wine (“quesos y vino”), I might posit some criteria for labeling a wine bar as “wacky.” Normally, the main considerations are the operators, the habitués and the setting. For instance, at Semidivino in Rome, it is the operator, Farshid Nourai, who adores all things from Palestine. In Paris, at Jacques Melac, it is Jacques, the crazed Auvergnat and his loon-toon staff (this might be the next wine bar in the series). At Vinyas del Senyor in Barcelona, it’s the wild, evening drinkers. (The arrogant, Catalan staff there actually appears disgusted by the whole spectacle, which makes it all the more amusing.) In Ljubljana, Slovenia, it is the underground setting of the wine bar, in a rundown fairground, that takes you aback. Everything is kind of buried, but at least the wine list has depth (hah). For some wine bars it can be the operator, the clientele and the setting that make things wacky. One of these is “Quesos y Vino” in Antigua, the old colonial capital of Central America that’s ringed by three volcanoes (one puffing), and studded with the ruins of once-grand 17th century buildings. Let’s start with the operator known as Pino (real name Giuseppe Viglianesi), a small wiry man of 50 some years. He’s from Naples, and comes with the cynical view typical of that city’s natives. When he isn’t criticizing or insulting Italy’s leader, Silvio Berlusconi, he is tormenting customers. This can be a little brutal, but his big smile usually smoothes things over. Sometimes it doesn’t. So people sensitive to criticism stay far away, as do Berlusconi supporters. Pino also has the futile world view of a Neapolitan. Ten years ago I asked him why he moved “Quesos y Vino” from one side of the street to the other. He sighed, “Life, you know, is constant change, horrible change that you and I have no control over.” Pino’s long term henchman is Marco Antonio. He’s five feet and 150 pounds of Mayan muscle. He runs the bar area and makes panini for the customers. He is very talented and efficient. I like to watch and marvel over his skill. I perch upon a stool against a wall and observe as he cuts and grills those little sandwiches. When completed they are ferried into the dining room by waitresses dressed in brown uniforms. In all uppity eateries in Guatemala, the wait staff wears some kind of uniform. This is to assure you that the place is clean and you won’t awake with a case of hepatitis the day after (the nightmare of any wine bibber). Marco Antonio isn’t as chatty with customers as Pino. He gazes at them with that old Johnny Carson grin and looses similar off camera asides. His most frequent aside is, “What a nut.” And the nuts do come into “Quesos y Vino” in volume. The main reason is Antigua’s beauty. Also, lots of people come to study Spanish in one of the two dozen Spanish language schools. These people can be evangelical missionaries, INS agents, CIA operatives, drug traffickers or simple, everyday con-men. And you get a lot of college kids who are apparently trying to get off campus for awhile and allay their parents’ doubt about a sojourn here by pretending to study Spanish (sorry, this is not exactly the Spanish spoken in Madrid, or even Barcelona). A group of four American college girls came into “Quesos y Vino” on my last visitation. All four were wearing agreeably low, low-rider pants. This I suppose was to showcase the tattoos on the small of their backs and upper buttocks. In addition, they were displaying some cleavage between the aforementioned buttocks. I couldn’t resist the obvious and queried, “Are you girls plumbers?” They blanched and scurried into the dining room. “Let’s get away from the weird old guy,” seemed to be their unspoken sentiment. On Friday night, the scene in and around the wine bar can be quite animated. This is when some of the “cool cats” and their female kittens will drive the 30 miles from Guatemala City to hang-out on Calle del Arco, where “Quesos y Vino” resides. The street will then be lined with German luxury cars, like the parking lot of a Palm Beach disco. These “cool cats” will buy beers from Marco Antonio and take them outside and sit on their cars. Their kittens will drink beer too, but their major role is to talk constantly on their cell phones and laugh as loudly possible. Marco Antonio watches the spectacle from the doorway and mutters, “What nuts,” over and over again. I’ve heard that sometimes these nights can become a bit uncivil. This is because certain of these “cool cats” are secreting weapons of mass destruction (usually automatic pistols from Brazil or Israel) in the glove boxes of their luxury autos. Among the affluent youth of Guatemala, a couple murders are thought to be part of the coming of age process. Why read a Hesse novel? Whatever legal problems that might follow can be resolved by their parents’ accurately distributed bribes. If that fails, there is always new violence to make everything ship-shape. I have never witnessed any violence outside “Quesos y Vino,” only read about it in the Guatemalan newspapers that delight in describing any kind of carnage. No, I stagger out long before things become nasty. I like to get home before the dogs start fighting which is normally around 11 p.m., depending if it’s dry season or rainy season. In the rainy season, the hounds will sometimes take a night off or wait for an early morning lull in precipitation to battle. It all depends on the weather. As you may have sensed, Pino’s wine selection is not the broadest or most refined in the world of wine bars. Usually he has three wines by the glass, Conche y Toro Chilean products being the marquee performers. But there are about thirty wines by the bottle. Again, most of these are “Chileno,” but Pino is branching out. He has some Salento red from his corner of Italy and some pleasant Spanish, like Marques de Riscal, red and white. But these Spaniards are a touch pricey by Guatemalan standards, being 250 Quetzales a bottle ($30 US). As far as eating goes, I normally get a vegetarian pizza. Naturally, Pino, like every other Neapolitan restaurateur outside of Italy, has a wood fired pizza oven. Sometimes, I’ll have Marco Antonio make a grilled cheese sandwich from the wonderful cheese out of Acul, a village in the Cuchumatane Mountains, 150 miles from Antigua. It’s made by Italians who emigrated there from Novara, 40 years ago, and tastes something like Fontina. Thus it melts nicely. Yes, at “Qusos y Vino,” you can wile away the sleepy days and dog fighting nights in Antigua. Also, at times there is TV entertainment. On one night last month, we watched the inauguration of the new Guatemalan president, Oscar Berger, on television, who is being touted as the first honest president in decades, if not ever. Pino had some doubts. He exploded, “Welcome to the new ‘ladron’ (thief). That’s one thing that never changes in Guatemala...corrupt presidents.” I felt compelled to voice my strong disagreement to Pino’s outburst. I said sternly, “No, Pino, there are actually two things that never change here, you and whoever gets elected president.” Great Values in Cabernet1998 Stepping Stone Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, Regularly $29.99/Sale $16.99: A delicately constructed Cabernet, particularly for Napa Valley. It gives you a mosaic of subtle essences, the most prominent among them being cedar, tobacco leaf, dark fruit and earth. This is a great value for those who prefer the mature, cigar-box style of cabernet to cabernets that emphasize highly extracted fruit and toasty oak. Not for long-term aging, this baby is drinking beautifully now (though aeration for a couple of hours before serving is suggested). This vintage is sold out, so grab a few bottles soon to avoid eternal disappointment! 2000 Chappellet Cabernet Sauvignon “Signature,” Napa, Regularly $39.99/Sale $33.99: Chappellet’s cabernet has long been a favorite of ours and, based on sales of previous vintages, many of you agree. The winery was a wine pioneer on Napa’s now-famous Pritchard Hill, and has since been joined by the likes of Colgin, David Arthur and Bryant Family (who sell their cabs for substantially more than does Chappellet). The winery’s flagship wine has been a benchmark of hillside Napa cab for decades, and the 2000 carries that mantle beautifully, with its intense black cherry-toast-anise-coffee-chocolate-spice nuances. This is mighty satisfying-and seductive-wine for the cab lover. |
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COALTRAIN
Wine & Spirits
330 W. Uintah
Colorado Springs, CO 80905
719-475-9700