Newsletter
December,
2002
- Highly Allocated, Highly Rated Wines
- Our Christmas Sale Wines
- Gaggle of Gajas
- Exotic Bundles at Bargain Rates
- 2000 Vintage Ports
- The Absolute (Our very best wines)
- Franchise Wines
- Archives
Highly Allocated, Highly Rated Wines
1999 Artessa Cabernet, Napa- $37.99:W.S. “92”. Smooth, rich and elegant. This is a supple, deeply flavored, harmonious wine, with focused currant, cassis and blackberry flavors. #30 in W.S. Top 100.1999 Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red, Napa- $97.99:W.A. “90-92”. Blueberry liquor, roasted coffee, spice, and smokey wood aromas. Broad, dense and full bodied.
1999 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon- $61.99:W.S. “93”. A tremendous wine, dark, polished and deeply concentrated.
1999 Arietta Proprietary Red Wine- $79.99:W.A.“94”. Dense, with ruby-purple color, styled wine.
1998 Joseph Phelps Insignia- $99.99:W.S.“93”. Dark, rich, and complex, brimming with currant, blackberry, spice, and chocolate. The finish maintains it’s finesse.
2000 Shafer Merlot- $39.99:W.S. “92”. Smooth-textured, with polished currant, mocha, and cherry, plus touches of tobacco and spice. #36 in W.S. Top 100.
1997 Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon, Trailside Vineyard- $77.99:W.S.“92”. Rich, supple black cherry, plum, and wild berry fruit, with touches of chocolate and mocha. A wonderful sense of harmony.
1998 Caldwell Vineyard, Proprietary Red- $89.99:W.A. “90”. Much of the fruit from this vineyard goes into Pahlmeyer, Viader, and Phelps Insignia. An impressive debut effort; roasted expresso, blackberries, cassis, and licorice… full bodied, concentrated palate, lush with a supple texture.
1999 Pride Cabernet Sauvignon- $60.99:Not yet reviewed, but always high scoring. Rich blackberry and cassis fruit with a little earth and tobacco. Both opulent and elegant
1998 Shafer Cabernet, Hillside Select- $149.99:W.A. “92”/W.S. “92”. Full bodied and rich with perfect balance, complex tobacco, mineral, cassis, and vanilla.
NV Krug Brut Champagne, Grand Cuvee- $124.99:W.S. “96”. Aromas of baking brioche, coconut, candied citrus and leather pick up roasted coffee and grilled nuts on the palate. #34 in W.S. Top 100.
1999 Domaine Drouhin, Laurene- $49.99:W.S. “93”. Rich and intense, highly focused to project its aromas and flavors without being heavy. Centers on dazzling raspberry, blackberry, vanilla and roasted game notes. #55 in W.S. Top 100.
Our Christmas Sale Wines
Bewitching Whites
1999 Bourgogne Chardonnay, Vezelay, Regularly $18.49/Sale $13.99: An intricate and fine style of white Burgundy. The wine could qualify for the “petite Chablis” appellation, but the maker opted for the more humble “Bourgogne Chardonnay” label. Well, this is superior to a lot of Chablis, under any label.
2000 Macon La Roche Vineuse, Alain Normand, Regularly $12.99/Sale $11.49: Our best selling French white. There is a clear flint/mineral aspect here with the expected Granny Smith apple bit. It’s our kind of Chardonnay and apparently a lot of customers as well.
2000 Hartford Chardonnay, Regularly $18.99/Sale $15.99: A Chardonnay made by a deft touch. There are pear and apple notes tastefully framed by new oak aging (30 percent new). Not overly bloated with wood. Bravo.
2001 Babich Sauvignon Blanc, Regularly $10.99/Sale $9.99: Zingy, zesty New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. THE WINE SPECTATOR scored it 88.
2000 Pine Ridge Chardonnay, Carneros, Regularly $25.99/Sale $23.99: A store favorite. You would hardly guess it is from California. It has the balance and “pillowiness” of a Chassagne-Montrachet. Perhaps this is because it is made from French Dijon Clone. Ranked #46 in this year’s WINE SPECTATOR top 100.
2000 Voss Sauvignon Blanc, Regularly $17.99/Sale $13.99: Crisp, unoaked, but full of flavor. It shows what good can happen when makers don’t try to transmogrify Sauvignon Blanc into Chardonnay.
1999 Rutz Maison Grand Cru Chardonnay, Regularly $21.99/Sale $16.99: I know we are becoming tiresome with our over-usage of the words “style” and “elegance” in our newsletters. But, again, these words apply to this California Chardonnay. Try it. We will try to expand our vocabulary.
Rappin’ Reds
2000 Crystal Valley Cellars Reserve Merlot, Regularly $15.99/Sale $12.99: A creation of the estimable Mitch Consentino, who has several wines in our sale. It gives you significantly more substance than other Merlots in its price bracket.
2000 Bernard Griffin Merlot, Washington, Regularly $18.99/Sale $16.99: A bit darker and earthier than the Merlot above. 87 points from THE WINE SPECTATOR.
2000 Cosentino, “The Zin,” Regularly $24.99/Sale $21.99: Another wine from Mitch Cosentino. This is a “wide-body,” loaded with pepper and spice. A big hit at our Christmas tasting.
1998 Preston Cabernet, Washington, Regularly $14.99/Sale $12.99: These Washington producers do some pretty amazing things. This has lots of stuffing for its relatively low price. There is cassis, black cherry, spice and other delights.
1998 Burgess Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, Regularly $34.99/Sale $29.99: It seems that Tom Burgess has been making excellent Cabernets in Napa for centuries. He’s made another here. It’s notable for its intense Cabernet fruit and some fetching cedar on the nose. Perhaps best, it offers all its delights right now, not five years away.
1999 Rosenblum Zinfandel, Richard Sauret Vineyard, Paso Robles, Regularly $22.99/Sale $19.99: All the voluptuous fruit we expect from Rosenblum’s bottling of this fine vineyard. We have this in splits too.
2001 Beaujolais, Manoir du Carra, Regularly $11.99/Sale $9.99: Though just the lowest of the Beaujolais appellation, this provides great gouts of flavor, perhaps because it’s unfiltered. It tastes fuller than many cru Beaujolais (the top ranking).
1999 Chateau Cambon la Pelouse, Haut-Medoc, Regularly $22.99/Sale $18.99: Rich, dark fruit essences. Comparable to the big chateaux. In fact, it is contiguous to the well known Chateau Giscours.
2000 Chateau Rouquette, Bordeaux Superieur, Regularly $15.99/Sale $13.99: One of the vanguards of the grand 2000 Bordeaux vintage. It offers some earth, dark fruit and formidable structure.
1998 Chateau Poujeaux, Moulis, Regularly 34.99/Sale 29.99: The Moulis commune of Bordeaux can give you some rough and ready wines with not a lot of finesse. But this has noteworthy finesse and shows you what this commune can do with care and a bit of time in the bottle. Drinking fabulously now. Definitely an earthy style.
2000 Empreinte du Temps Carignan, Regularly $10.99/Sale $9.99: We have heard Carignan called a “putain” of a vine by southern French grape growers. It can grow fast and produce a lot of grapes and make coarse wines. This, from very old vines, is rich, with smoke, earth and big black fruits. “Pas putain.”
1999 Sestano, Chianti Superiore, Regularly $10.99/Sale $9.99: In general, Chianti prices have gone crazy the last few years. We have been assiduously searching for good ones under ten dollars. This is it. It has character and body-weight.
2001 Tres Picos Garnacha, Borsao, Regularly $12.99/Sale $11.49: “Dios mios,” this Spanish gem is “muy grande.” It’s made from old vine Grenache. It’s something like drinking a Gigondas or Chateauneuf-du-Pape from France.
2001 La Vendimia Rioja, Palacios, Regularly $11.99/Sale $10.99: One of the first arrivals from the spectacular 2001 Rioja vintage. It’s basically a red fruit driven wine as you’d expect from a young release Rioja, but there is complexity and interest too.
2000 Castano Solanera, Regularly $10.99/Sale $9.99: This is Mourvedre from central Spain (Yecla). It has huge extract, huge flavors and huge pleasures. One of Coaltrain’s finest values.
2000 Maculan Breganze Rosso, Regularly $12.99/Sale $11.49: Fausto Maculan is a surprising fellow, making wine about halfway between Verona and Venice. This is surprising because it tastes like a Bordeaux or California meritage blend, at half the price.
1997 Dezzani Barolo, Regularly $29.99/Sale $19.99: Fortuitously, we landed more of this at its way reduced price. Fortuitous, because this wine gives the Barolo experience at an attractive cost. We haven’t tasted a Barolo this respectable, under $20, in years, if not a decade.
Tiny Bubbles
NV Mirabelle Brut, Regularly 16.99/Sale 14.99: Made by Schramsberg, one of the very best sparkling wine producers in California. This tastes as though it cost much more. There is a nice touch of creaminess in the mid-palete, but it doesn’t overwhelm the fine acidity.
Bellenda Prosecco, Regularly $14.99/Sale $12.99: Prosecco has become quite the trendy aperitif. Normally, it’s lighter, less acidic and less carbonated than true Champagne. Thus it rides better in the belly. This is light, crisp, dry, full of happiness.
Nicolas Feuillatte NV Brut, Regularly $34.99/Sale $29.99: There is a lot of fashion with Champagne. For years, Veuve Clicquot was our “pret a porter” sparkler. But skyrocketing costs and some disappointing bottles have altered matters. Now, Nicolas Feuillate is our “ready to wear” Champagne because it gives fashion at non-Prada (or Veuve Clicquot) prices.
1993 Bauget Jouette, Blanc de Blancs, Regularly 45.99/Sale 39.99: Vintage Champagne made entirely from Chardonnay grapes (blanc de blancs). Blanc de Blancs Champagnes seem to benefit most from some age. Time seems to reduce acidity and and contribute roundness. There is some creaminess here with some mushroom notes. And the remaining acidity makes it zingy and clean.
Gaggle of Gajas
Angelo just released his erstwhile Barbaresco crus from the “super extra,” fantastic 1998 vintage. Showing his sensitivity for the world’s current economic state, he is only asking $350 per bottle for these wines. We must ask, “Angelo, are you selling all these to your “mega-rich,” Prime Minister pal, Silvio Berlusconi?” Some people aren’t Christmas shopping in that bracket this season. For those who are not in the $350/bottle bracket, we are offering some other vintages of “super extra,” fantastic, Gaja bottles at special prices. They will show what the Gaja mystic is about. Granted, they are still not cheap, but Gaja is Gaja. So, at the least, they are pretty spectacular sipping and sure to dazzle any “bella ragazza.”
1997 Gaja Barbaresco, $169.99: From that hot/dry year, 1997, this was the best Gaja “normale” I had ever tasted.
1998 Gaja Barbaresco, $199.99: And, then, this came and bested the ’97 “normale” above. It’s far more restrained and composed, less Irish Setter in it.
1996 Gaja Costa Russi, $229.99: Of Gaja’s three sublime single vineyard Barbarescos, I’ve found this always the most enigmatic. It’s deliciously enigmatic. By the way, 1996 and 1998 are two of the finest vintages in decades for these Piemontese wines.
1996 Gaja Sori San Lorenzo, $229.99: This is kind of Gaja’s “La Tache,” as a
counterpoint to his Sori Tilden that is like “Romanee-Conti.” Stylish, magnificentstuff. We thought we had Sori Tilden too, but it seems our ever bibulous staff downed it all at lunch...devils!Exotic Bundles at Bargain Rates
These are wines for the ultra-connoisseur at bargain prices. Why the bargain prices? Because only ultra-connoisseurs have heard of most of them and, thus, they sell slowly. So it’s a good time to buy and become an ultra-connoisseur in the process.
Portuguese Fado
1995 Quinta do Cotto, Grande Escolha: Wine of the year in Portugal in 2000. Bizarre, raisened flavors, but dry. Phantasmagorical.
1999 Quinta de Cortezia, Tinta Roriz: The top model of Tempranillo (Spain’s sublime red grape) in Portugal. Exotic, fine.
1996 Quinta dos Carvalhais, Touriga Nacional: Again, one of the highest rated reds in Portugal. And, from the little country’s crown grape, Touriga Nacional.
—Wines purchased separately, $144.97/Wines in the bundle, $115.97
Panic of Piemontese
1996 Allesandro Brero Barolo: International style, but impressive. Plump and pleasing. One of few ’96 Barolos already drinking well.
1995 Elvio Pertinace Barbaresco, Vigna Marcarini: At peak Barbaresco from an innovative producer.
1996 Giacomo Bologna, Bricco dell Uccellone, Barbera d’Asti: From one of the most legendary people ever to make a wine anywhere in Italy. Exceedingly rare and fine. The wine that revolutionized Barbera.
—Wines purchased separately, $143.97/Wines in the bundle, $115.18
Red Burgundy at the Perfect Moment
1998 Pommard, Bouchard Aine: Fleshy, fulfilling Pinot Noir, correct to its provenance.
1997 Chambolle-Musigny, 1er Cru, Henri de Villamont: “Negoce,” but fine stuff. At satiny peak.
1996 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru, Clos Saint Marc, Bouchard Freres: Big, structured red. Good representative of its vintage and top vineyard.
—Wines purchased separately, $135.97/Wines in the bundle, $108.78
New World Syrahs
2000 McCrea Syrah, Yakima Valley: Stupendous, Washington Syrah with force and style.
1998 Lane Tanner Syrah, San Luis Obispo, French Camp Vineyard: Somewhat prototypical, exotica.
2000 Glen Fiona Syrah, Columbia Valley: Creamy chocolate, spice, coffee fantasia. Few people know this serious maker and the delicious experiences its wines provide.
—Wines purchased separately, $84.97/Wines in the bundle, $67.98
Buxom Brunellos
1995 Fuligni Brunello: Way under-known and under-valued, at least for Brunello. Made by a young criminal lawyer from Siena.
1995 Costanti Brunello Riserva: Andrea Costanti, a geologist by training, is one of the most consistent and best of Brunello makers.
1995 Poggio Antico Brunello: Estimable, new style Brunello. And, besides, they have a delightful restaurant outside Montalcino.
—Wines purchase separately, $248.97Wines in the bundle, $199.18
Brasserie Zind-Humbrecht
1998 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris, Heimbourg: Monster PG, as only Z-H can produce.
1999 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling, Herrenweg: A Z-H workhorse Riesling with that
mystical hint of waxy botrytis.1999 Zind-Humbrecht Gewurztraminer, Wintzenheim: Another Z-H workhorse that is so far above its peers that it defies appropriate description. But we could try, given another page.
—Wines purchased separately, $96.47/Wines in the bundle, $77.18
Armani Toscano
1994 Avignonesi Grifi: Beautiful cut of the Cabernet Sauvignon grape.
1997 Valdepiatta Trefonti: Sangiovese, Cabernet and Merlot, stitched precisely.
1995 Stielle Rocca de Castagnoli: A super Tuscan at its peak and becoming fashionable.
—Wines purchased separately, $93.97/Wines in the bundle, $75.18
2000 Vintage Ports
It’s a dandy year, particularly for some skillful makers. But, the buyer must be a little careful. Some of the wines can be light and dainty, not particularly ageworthy. But they are still delicious in the glass right now. Others are profound Ports that can age and evolve into something memorable. Here is the read on what we currently have in stock.
2000 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port, $89.99: Perhaps the grand success of the vintage. The concentration of dark fruit flavors is without equal. For the connoisseur or someone wanting to experience Port’s finest sensations, this is the bottle. THE WINE ADVOCATE scored it 98+.
2000 Smith & Woodhouse Vintage Port, $45.99: This is not as monumental as the Taylor Fladgate, but rather silken and refined. THE WINE SPECTATOR gave it a 95-100 rating. It’s a noteworthy value.
2000 Romariz Vintage Port, $26.99/375 ml.: Quintessential Vintage Port from a Portuguese house, rather than a British operation. That is, it is more rustic and leathery, not as dense and extracted as “Brit Port.”
2000 Quinta do Vesuvia Vintage Port, $63.99: Always one of our favorite Ports. It’s the fat, smooth mouthfeel that we so adore. This has all that again. THE WINE ADVOCATE gave it 91 points. We like it even better, as did THE WINE SPECTATOR who rated it 95-100.
The Absolute (Our very best wines)
1996 Giacosa Barolo, Falletto Riserva, $179.99: Somehow we received a couple bottles more. Parker scored the wine 98. We feel he is being niggardly with his points here.
1999 Ornellaia, $139.99: The 1998 vintage of this was THE WINE SPECTATOR’S wine of the year. This is profoundly superior.
1998 Artadi Pagos Viejos Rioja, $81.99: “Pues” these old vineyard wines offer some of the most intense flavors from the glorious Basque zone of Rioja. Highly rated everywhere, even Spain.
1999 Artadi Vina el Pison Rioja, $113.99: Ditto above. A bit more silken. So highly rated that it’s almost impossible to find anywhere, other than Russia, maybe.
1998 Penfold’s Grange, $169.99: We’re amazed we have two bottles of this left in the store. It’s one of wine world’s most esteemed icons.
1999 Le Montrachet, Baron de la Charriere, $179.99: Le Montrachet may well be the world’s greatest wine produced from the Chardonnay grape. Like the above Penfold’s Grange, we’re amazed this is still in the store. The production is thimble sized.
1999 Opus One, Mondavi/Rothschild, $139.99: This will certainly be one of the most revered Opus ever. Fantastic “rondeur” and style.
1999 Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, $129.99: The sky is the limit on this one, like above. Perhaps it is a touch more ageworthy than its Opus sibling. This was #12 on the WINE SPECTATOR’S Top 100 list with a “94” rating.
1993 Tattinger Comte de Champagne Rose, $199.99: Bubbly “don’t” get better than this. It was Charlie Wrightsman’s (ex-Standard Oil “pres”) favorite afternoon “pain-killer” in Palm Beach, as he was hemmed in by Kennedy’s on every side (and complained incessantly). We, however, were content to drink it and listen to his fulminations.
Franchise Wines
—Our Best Wines for Their Prices, or How We Made Our Name—Good, Bad or Just Ugly
We assess new wines for inclusion in Coaltrain’s inventory with care. We consider several things...varietal typicity, style, grace, cork health and bone structure. Most of all, we consider whether the wine is a good value. In other words, “in the world of wine does this taste better than its similar priced competitors?” Here are some current wines of the hundreds we’ve had over the years. They are our “franchise wines.” We think you’d have a hard time finding anything better in the price range.
1999 Miner Merlot, Stagecoach Vineyard, $33.99: The Stagecoach Vineyard, situated at 1000 to1700 feet of height, has become one of the most revered in California and has supplied fruit for bottlings from Dalle Valle, Viader, Hess, et. al. This Merlot charms you with its depth, elegance and style (there we go with those two words again).
2000 Andrew Rich Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon, $26.99: A bit more reserved than the ’99, but still as good as many $50 Oregon Pinots.
2001 Pezzi King Fume Blanc, $15.99: Normally, California Sauvignon Blancs are a debacle in a bottle; not this one. It shows that a touch of oak can be beneficially appliedto this grape.
1999 Baileyana Chardonnay, $13.99: “Finesse” is the word here and “substance.” No ”slobber-knocker” Chardonnay (thank you John Madden for the adjective) with the stuffing to “run” with big foods.
2001 Theo Minges Riesling Halbtrocken, Nahe. $11.99/liter: We’ve been extolling thevirtues of this bone-dry Riesling over our last three newsletters. Please refer to your files.
2000 Domaine de la Garrique, Cotes-du-Rhone, $9.99: This wine gets in your blood like malaria. But, oh, it’s so good, you refuse any quinine medication. It’s our fave “value red.”
1999 Dei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, $22.99: Some have opined that “Vino Nobile,” from Tuscany, is the most over-rated, red wine in Italy. That might be true in general. Not here. This is awesome. They should say, “Tuscany is the most over-rated place in Italy.”
1998 Elio Grasso Barolo, Vigna Chiniera, $39.99: To get a Barolo from an
extraordinary vintage at this price is flabbergasting. Elio Grasso, a reformed lawyer, is making wine approaching the highest levels of his exalted zone.1998 Chateau Haut Gleon Corbieres, Cuvee Teresa Tyzskiewica, $15.99: We’ve been getting this big, southern, French red for a couple years. When will they run out? For its size, it’s disarmingly stylish.
1999 Gneiss Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $19.99: Frankly, there are few sub $20 Cabernets that snap us out of our dipsomaniacal stupor. This vinous tonic provides depth, excitement and wake-up power.
2001 Petite Folie Zinfandel, Amador County, $10.99: One of our erstwhile “Wines of the Month,” this continues to please everyone who sips it It’s a wallop of Zinfandel with a sense of civility. Sadly, the vineyards have been replaced with Cabernet grapes, so it’s the last of its type. Darn.
COALTRAIN
Wine & Spirits
330 W. Uintah
Colorado Springs, CO 80905
719-475-9700