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Newsletter

February, 2002

Moroccan Lamb Shanks

(Click here for printer friendly version)

4 large lamb shanks
4 small tomatoes ( fire roasted optional )
1 roasted red bell pepper
1 bulb of raosted garlic
2 cups finely chopped onions
1 cup finely chopped carrots
1 cup finely chopped celery
2 bay leaves
1 bunch parsley
3 oz tomato paste
half bottle red wine ( Spanish mouvedre )
1 can beef broth
1 can chicken broth
1 tbsp Hungarian sweet paprika
half tsp crushed red pepper
1 tbsp cumin
half tbsp coriander
quarter tsp cinnamon
quarter tsp allspice
fresh ground black pepper
salt

First take the lamb shanks and wash them thoroughly. Now season the shanks with salt and pepper. Over high heat with a medium to large stock pot bring enough olive oil to cover the bottom to heat and then add your lamb shanks. ( at this point smoke is good ) Brown the shanks to a deep caramel color on all sides. Now take out the lamb shanks and add your chopped onion, carrots and celery and stir. When vegetables start to lightly brown add the tomato paste and continue stirring. The paste will quickly stick too bottom of pan and brown. Add the red wine to deglaze, then add the broth remaining vegetables, spices and 4 cups of water. Add shanks back to the pot and bring to a boil turn down the heat and simmer for two and a half hours, or until meat easily separates from the bone. To finish add some chopped parsley.

This dish has complex flavors, the lamb is tender and very flavorful. The spices are well balanced and thus it is not spicy hot. We served it with a side of Moroccan Cous -Cous which provided a nice foil for the Lamb and sauce. When pairing wines with this dish we immediately thought of big reds which is a natural first choice. Out of curiosity, we threw in a white, which we wanted to be full bodied yet not oaky. To our amazement the 2000 Andrew Rich Sauvignon Blanc (our white wine of the month) went very well. With enough body to not be overpowered and the acidity to cleanse the palate. The red wine of choice, was the 1999 Catena Malbec from Argentina ($22.99/sale $19.99) The wine by itself is amazing, rich dark fruit and a silky, elegant mouthfeel, with the food there was perfect balance. Synergy! As an less expensive alternative the 1999 Castano Solanera, Las Vinas Viejas de Monastrell ($13.99) is a respectable substitute.

Vigil Winery

Located in Napa Valley at the foot of Mt. St. Helena, this small winery produces terrific wines. The vines are fifty to one hundred years old and are organically farmed without irrigation. The resulting wines have great depth and complexity as well as elegance and style. What more could you ask for?

1998 Vigil Mouvedre, Barbara’s Vineyard: $19.99—Mouvedre formerly known by its Spanish name Mataro is seeing a resurgence in the California wine market. The vineyard was planted in the early 1900’s. The old vines produce an elegant ,perfumed wine, with good acidity and a dark, black raspberry fruit. Offering some grip on the finish, it has intensity without being overpowering.

1998 Vigil Petite Sirah, Davies Vineyard: $19.99—From gnarled old vines at the base of the Maycaymus mountain range that separates Napa and Sonoma counties. The wine is dark and brooding with layers of earth and spice. We love the “horsey”, leathery character of this Petite Sirah an “old world” style that is more complex than fruit forward.

1997 Vigil, Valiente, Meritage: $24.49—A Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petite Verdot. A wonderful bouquet of sage, smoke and spice. Not for the faint of heart... intense blackberry fruit and a long smooth finish.

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A Quality Wine Sale

Every year about this time we have a few bottles of this and that left over which we want to sell to make room for the future (what a concept). So we do the obvious...lower the prices. Certain of these are stupendous wines and give shrewd buyers the opportunity to try something sublime and rare at a better than normal price. To tantalize you, here are sampling of these wines on the sale block. We have many more.

1995 Castello dei Rampolla, Sammarco, Regularly $63.99/Sale $53.99—One of the original super-Tuscans (one bottle).

1991 Barca Velha, Regularly $69.99/Sale $59.99—Portugal’s most legendary wine (one bottle).

1996 Rinaldi Barolo, Regularly $74.99/Sale $64.99—Old style Barolo from one of the finest vintages of recent time (one bottle).

1994 Cune Rioja, Vina Real, Regularly $24.99/Sale $20.99—One of the top bottlings from this top level Rioja maker.

1995 Chambolle-Musigny, Faiveley, Regularly $42.99/Sale $35.99—A silken Burgundy that is right at “prime time.”

1998 Savigny-les-Beaune, La Dominode, Bruno Clair, Regularly $45.99/Sale $38.99—Bruno Clair is probably the best maker in this commune, thus the relatively high price.

1995 Pesquera Reserva, Ribera del Duero, Regularly $45.99/Sale $38.99—A master work from the fabled Alejandro Fernandez.

1995 Barbaresco, Elvio Pertinace, Regularly $39.99/Sale $33.99—Soft, ready Nebbiolo wine.

1996 Bricco de Uccellone, Giacomo Bologna, Regularly $48.99/Sale $39.99— If Giacomo were alive to see this low price on his special wine, he’d either laugh or cry.

1996 Pommard, F. Dohet, Regularly $35.99/Sale $29.99—It’s meaty with some life ahead.

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Half Bottle Heroics

Though incomprehensible to us, some have difficulty consuming a 750 ml. bottle of wine at one sitting. So, at various times, they would like a half bottle (375 ml.) of fine wine. Okay, but the only problem is that in the past, we have not had a good selection of half bottles (good, undamaged half bottles aren’t that easily come upon). However, we are striving to ameliorate this grievous shortcoming. So we have been acidulously hunting these diminutive drinks. Here are some of the delightful half bottles we have recently come up with:

1999 Chateauneuf du Pape, Domaine des Senechaux, $12.99
1998 Bordeaux, Chateau de Sours, 6.99
2000 Macon-Fuisse, Domaine Thiburt, $8.99
1998 Bandol, La Galantin, $8.99
2000 Chablis Permier Cru, Montee de tonnerre, Vacoret, $11.99
2000 Saint-Veran, Domaine de la Denante, $7.99
2000 Pouilly Fume, Les Cris, Cailbourdin, $8.99
1999 Ridge Geyserville, $14.49
1998 Kent Rasmussen Pinot Noir, $14.99
1999 Testarossa Chardonnay, Testarossa Vineyard, $13.49
1997 Chrichton Hall Merlot, Napa Valley, $17.99
1999 Clos du Bois Merlot, Sonoma County, $6.49

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New Arrivals

1998 Simi Cabernet, Regularly $23.99/Sale $20.99—A Bordeaux style Cabernet with more restrained fruit but greater complexity than most wines in this price range. From Napa Valley, this is a good value.

1999 Cotes du Rhone Villages Cairanne, Cuvee d’Estevenas, Domaine Rabasse Charavin, $19.99—Simply massive, delicious wine. It’s a special blend of ancient Grenache and Syrah grapes. It’s like the very best of Chateauneuf du Pape

1999 Crystal Valley Cellar Pinot Noir, California, $12.99—Wow, to find a Pinot this good at a decent price is impressive. Usually Pinot Noirs in this price bracket lack depth and complexity. But this has both. Sure it’s not La Tache, but it’s pretty good.

1999 Crystal Valley Cellar Reserve Merlot, $14.99—We might say ditto the above. Again, for its price, it’s impressive. It’s not the fruity, insipid Merlot you expect for the price. There is some substance here and a healthy dose of earthiness.

2000 Quincy, Jean Tatin, $12.99—If you want to taste “naked” Sauvignon Blanc in a pristine state (no oak or manipulation), this is it. There is some grass, herb and expressive acid. No “pipi de chat.” It was a bronze medal winner in the 2001 Paris wine competition.

2001 Lawson’s Dry Hills Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, $12.99—Now this is another Sauvignon Blanc that shakes one from the normal torpor. It has a huge grapefruit nose and huge citrus flavors. But maybe the most significant aspect is that it comes in a screw-top bottle. Bravo Lawson.

1999 Corrina Chianti, Rufina, $12.99—Finally! We’ve been looking for a ”knock your socks off” Chianti for under $15, over the last several months. This is rich and bold for a wine from the normally delicate Rufina zone of Chianti. There are plum and dark fruit flavors and aromas. It has a fat, fetching mouthfeel. No cheap Chianti acid bite.

1999 Gigondas, Domaine de Cabasse, $19.99—Actually, we stayed at this winery in October, but they wouldn’t let us taste the wine. Well, they only make 1,000 cases. Who could blame them? But the Colorado importer sent us a bottle. It’s a rich, wonderful, Grenache based wine. The WS scored it 94.

1998 Cotes du Rhone, Clos du Caillou, Bouquet des Garrigues, $17.99—The story here is, the owner of this estate didn’t pay his tax when Chateauneuf du Pape received its appellation in 1923 and so it can’t put that more prestigious name on the label. Thus it’s only generic “Cotes du Rhone.” But it is so much more. Dark cassis flavors with tones of leather and earth. It’s located between Rayas and Beaucastel, two of the most hallowed Chateauneufs made. If Clos du Caillou would have paid their taxes, we could charge you 20 dollars more and the wine would taste even better at $37.99 (image is everything).

1990 Barbera d’Asti, Il Dragone, $17.99—You read it right...1990 Barbera d’Asti. It’s kind of an intellectual experience. This shows you some dried fruit and funk...not the strawberry, acid and zest you expect from Asti’s young Barberas. A chance to have an aged wine at a reasonable price.

Jest Red, California North Coast, $9.99—Don’t let the name or “Isadora Duncan” style label put you off. This is a creative blend of California grapes (Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, Zin and the kitchen sink), much like Bonny Doon’s Big House Red.

1998 Pertaringa Cabernet Sauvignon, Mclaren Vale, South Australia, $23.99—Needs time. A dead-ringer for a very good Bordeaux. An earthy, stunning example of Cabernet.

Benjamin Australian Tawny Port, Regularly $11.99/Sale $10.99—Well, it is Port season and this is about as good as it comes for a decent price.

1998 Phelps Insignia, $99.99—A Bordeaux blend (78 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 22 % Merlot). This is one of the classic California reds. Oddly, many are unaware of its majesty. “A dark, deliciously rich and complex youngster, brimming with layers of curant, blackberry, plum, mineral, spice, chocolate and cedar. Finishes with a gush of flavors, yet maintains its finesse and grace. Best from 2002 through 012.” -Wine Spectator - 93 Points.

1999 Catena Malbec, Regularly $22.99/Sale $19.99—A world class effort. Rich, extracted flavors of dark fruits with chocolate highlights. “Satiny,” Victoria’s Secret mouthfeel. This wine is perfect with our “Recipe of the Month”, Moroccan Lamb Shanks.

2000 Chateau L’Etoile, Graves blanc, $8.99—A pretty white composed of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. Drink solo or with light foods like trout or sole.

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Wines of the Month

2000 Andrew Rich Sauvignon Blanc, Les Vigneaux, $15.99—If you tried any of this guy’s Pinot Noir, featured at Christmas, you know of what elevated quality he is capable. This is round, exotic, complex, sensational with a finish as long as a Modigliani face. It’s not as zesty as most of the fine New Zealand Sauvignons. There is a creamy middle that provides bliss. Andrew has side-stepped the marketing temptation to transmogrify the Sauvignon Blanc grape into Chardonnay. It’s something of a rarity. So you might purchase a bottle soon. By the way, this wine surprisingly works really well with our “Recipe of the Month”...Moroccan Lamb Shanks.

1999 Castano Solanera, Las Vinas Viejas de Monastrell, $13.99—We adore the beefy, deep flavors of Mourvedre (Monastrell in Spanish). It’s not for the timid. A popular wine magazine, THE WINE ADVOCATE, scored this bottle 92, calling it an “astonishing value.” Well, we would certainly score it 90 or so. There is some Cabernet Sauvignon in the mix and, at $13.99, it is indeed one of the best values in red wine in the world today. Our quantities are minute. We recommend buying in case quantities (that’s our job). It will age five years or so. Thus, no frenzy to drink today or tomorrow.

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COALTRAIN
Wine & Spirits
330 W. Uintah
Colorado Springs, CO 80905
719-475-9700