Newsletter
November,
2001
- No Brainers for the Thanksgiving Table
- Braised Pork Loin Fillets
with Cream Sauce and Dried Plums - Food & Wine Advisory
- Hey…Beerman!
- New Arrivals
- Wines of the Month
- Archives
No Brainers for the Thanksgiving Table
Thanksgiving dinner must be the easiest meal of the year to match wine with food. First because the turkey has white and dark meat. And the varied side dishes mean that a wine is bound to bond synergetically with something. The key is perhaps not to get too extreme, i.e., not too tannic, acidic, oaky, sweet or extracted. Following are some of our picks with the food they complement. Don’t panic, it’s easy.
2000 Avila Pinot Noir, $11.99—a fruity, earthy red to match turkey (red or white meat), cornbread stuffing.
2000 Bridgeview Riesling, $7.99—an off-dry pre-dinner sip or with turkey white meat and cranberries.
2000 Chehalem Pinot Gris, $15.99—a dry, round thing for pumpkin soup, yams (hold the marshmallow), acorn squash, chestnuts and, maybe, “criadillas” (our favorite Thanksgiving treat).
2000 Schloss Wallhausen, Riesling Kabinett, $13.99—a white that can ameliorate gizzards and organ stuffings (my mother called it “giblets”).
1997 Rosenblum Zinfandel, Rustridge, Regularly $19.99/Sale $17.99—fruity, fun Zin for fried turkey and cranberry relish.
1999 McCrea Syrah, Yakima Valley, $39.99—fantastic stuff for any part of the turkey, even the comb and wattles, particularly if the doomed gobbler has been smoked.
Hidalgo Napoleon Cream Sherry, $11.49—a sweetish, nutty sherry for ice cream, pumpkin pie or to silence your mother-in-law (we have a case each).
Braised Pork Loin Fillets
with Cream Sauce and Dried PlumsThis recipe uses what’s called a short braise in which the pork filets are partially cooked in a wine and stock. Finished in the oven they remain tender and juicy. The sauce is basically like creating a stock and reducing it to concentrate the flavors, the time it takes to reduce varies but your patience will be rewarded. Finished with the cream and jelly the sauce takes on a richness and complexity. A real autumnal treat served with oven roasted root vegetables and braised leeks. (Yield: 6 Servings)
18 large dried pitted prunes
2 C dry white wine. (we used a Vouvray).
6 loin pork chops, 11/2" thick, trimmed and boned
All purpose flour
Canola Oil
½ C each diced carrot, celery and onion (mirepoix)
2 C chicken stock
½ to 1 C heavy cream
2 t red currant jelly
2 T minced parsley1. Simmer the prunes in the wine over moderate heat, covered until plumped up and tender, about 10 minutes. Strain. Reserve the wine and plums separately.
2. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly dredge the filets in flour and sauté, using a large skillet, in canola oil until they are a rich golden brown on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer Filets to a plate. Add the bones to the pan and brown, add mirepoix and brown slightly (additional oil may be needed to keep mirepoix from burning)
3. Add wine to the pan (deglazing) and then the chicken broth. Bring to a boil and reduce by half over medium-high heat.
4. Remove the bones and place filets in the liquid on top of the mirepoix (liquid should come part way up the filets), additional broth may be added if necessary. Cover and simmer gently over very low heat until the filets are tender when pierce with the tip of a sharp knife, 5 to 8 minutes. Place the Filets in a pre-heated oven to 350 degrees and immediately turn off the oven. The meat should be cooked within 10 to 15 minutes. Internal temperature of meat should be 145 to 150 degrees. Take care not to over cook the pork, as it will become tough. Use tongs to transfer the meat to a warm plate, place three prunes on each filet and cover with foil.
5. Pour the contents of the pan though a fine mesh strainer, pressing down on the vegetables to extract all of the juices. Return the juices to the pan and reduce by half rapidly, stirring and scraping any brown bits that cling to the pan. Add the cream and continue to boil down until the color becomes a light beige and it is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon.
6. Whisk in the jelly and continue to cook, whisking until jelly is dissolved. Taste and correct the seasoning of the sauce. Spoon the sauce over the filets, sprinkle with minced parsley and serve.
We experimented pairing four wines with this dish. The 1999 Domaine Le Capitaine Vouvray $11.99 also used in the recipe was the favorite; a true example of synergy where the wine was better when paired with the dish each working together. Another white that worked was our wine of the month, the 2000 Four Sisters Sauvignon Blanc/ Semillon- $15.99, still had a nice burst of acidity to cut the rich sauce. A dry Riesling would be fantastic also. We also tried the 2000 Domaine Cheusson Chiroubles- $12.99, the fresh berry fruit and good acidity worked well; Beaujolais Nouveau would also work well. The 1999 Mazzi Valpolicella Classico, while a great wine, was a bit too tannic and heavy with the dish.
FOOD & WINE ADVISORY
Lyon’s Gastronomic Delights and Difficulties
Lyon, France—It has been reported that not so long ago, a restaurant customer pulled a gun on a cook in this lovely town. It seems that the man was offended by what he considered an improperly prepared “andouillette” (grilled tripe sausage), a revered dish of the region. When the case came to court, the judge agreed that the “andouillette” wasn’t quite right and threw out the case.
Whether this is true or not (I read it in a French magazine), I can’t say. But it is believable because the natives take food seriously here. And they will take strong measures to protect its integrity.
Actually, many seasoned diners consider Lyon to be the mother lode of fine French cooking. Much of its international reputation has been built by the high profile cook, Paul Bocuse, who occasionally tends a stove just outside of Lyon in Collonges-au—Mont-d’Or. He has circled the world, promoting himself and the region’s food. And so his smiling, “toque” topped face has appeared in magazines and cooking books in many lands.
But it is often forgotten that Bocuse is a product of Lyon, not the other way around. And what has made Lyon a gastronomic gold mine is the availability of fine ingredients, the culinary imagination of the local people and an artisan tradition among its “charcutiers,” “chocolatiers,” “fromagers,” “patissiers” and all others who contribute a morsel to its table.
To read the rest of this article, visit us on the web at www.coaltrainwine.com which includes a selection of Lyon’s most serious restaurants, ‘bouchons’ (wine bistros), “fromagers” (cheese mongers), “patisseries” (pastery makers), “charcutiers” (prepared food shops), “cavispes” (wine shops), “boulangers” (bakers), and “chocolatiers” (chocolate and candy makers).
Hey…Beerman!
By Jensson Lear
Barleywine – (bår·li·wîn) n.1) Historically, the name given by the ancient Egyptians and Greeks to the wine made from barley which is translated in modern English text as barley wine; 2) In England, the name given to any top-fermented beer of unusually high, wine-like, alcohol content yielding about 8 to 12% alcohol by volume (ABV).
Barley wines are usually copper-colored or dark brown, strongly flavored, fruity and bittersweet and sometimes fermented wine or champagne yeast. Because of their unusual strength, they have little head retention and require long aging periods ranging from six months to many years. They are often brewed for special events and are typically released around autumn. Serve at room temperature, as an after dinner drink, or as a nightcap, to be enjoyed with a good book.
Barley Wine Style Ales—
Old Nick, $2.59/ 1 pint—This a classic reddish- brown barley wine, with a smooth malty fruitiness, a hint of banana and licorice. Its alcohol content is 7.2%. A wonderfully balanced ale by Young’s.
Sierra Nevada Bigfoot, $9.79/ six pack—Orange/brown in color, bottle conditioned ale, with a nutty nose and a roasted coffee and chocolate finish. At 9.6% ABV it’s a strong brew yet maintains its lovely lingering hop aromas.
Avery Hog Heaven, $3.69/ 22oz.—Two and a half pounds of Columbus dry hops go into each barrel of Hog Heaven. This mahogany colored ale is a very unique brew. A bit hoppier than most barley wines but very well balanced. A must try!
Vintage Ale 2000, $5.99/ 1 pint—Mellow and golden, this ale will improve with age. Made from 1999 Champion Optic malted barley, organically produced hops and Fullers unique yeast. Fullers Vintage Ales are individually numbered in attractive gift boxes. For best results, it should be matured in a cool cellar for up to two years.
Coming Soon…Horn Dog Barley Wine Style Ale from Flying Dog Brewing Company. Old No. 23 Barley Wine Style Ale from Bristol Brewing Company
New Arrivals
v 1997 Frazier Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $47.99—Words like succulent and complex mark this one. It has rich fruit with attractive earthy undertones. From a great vintage, this is, believe it or not, a good value. It rivals many of the California Cabs that have shot up to $70 or $80 a bottle.
v 1998 Madrigal Petite Sirah, Napa Valley, $39.99—Monumental, dark, brooding. Simply one of the best red wines in the store. Minute quantity...adios soon.
v 2001 Babich Sauvignon Blanc, $10.99/Sale $9.99—Another superb New Zealand SB. It’s a bright wine with lime essences in the nose and on the palate. Full of flavor, but not aggressive. We consider it a good value.
v 1999 Iron Horse Viognier, Regularly $21.99/Sale $17.99—Not another saturnine California Viognier here. Rather, it is delicate and fine. It’s somewhat comparable to a Perret Condrieu, but costs a third the price.
v 1999 Testarossa Pinot Noir, Sleepy Hollow, $37.99—Finding Testarossa Pinot Noir on a retail shelf is akin to finding Screaming Eagle. Well, only 10 cases of this landed in Colorado. And we got the only case for Colorado Springs. What a scream.
v 1997 Rutz Pinot Noir, Martinelli, Regularly $22.99/Sale $18.99—We love almost everything from this maker. Here you have a Pinot from a great vintage that is peaking. So you taste more than young cherries. You sense some leather, cola nut and spice. Old age isn’t without some sensual benefits.
v 1999 Brophy Clark Zinfandel, Paso Robles, $15.99—Sadly, only 154 cases of this gem were produced. It’s a stylish, personalized Zinfandel, medium bodied with black cherry and berry. There is also some tea and sweet vanilla oak. Snatch it quick.
v 1998 Tarius Zinfandel, Aldine Vineyard, $29.99—Another stylish Zinfandel (are we boring you yet?). We can’t help it. We love Zinfandels, especially ones like this that have beautiful forward fruit, but depth as well.
v 1999 Andrew Murray Vineyards Esperance, Santa Barbara, $19.99—Unfined, unfiltered and abounding with flavors. It’s a classic Rhone blend of 50% Syrah, 45% Grenache and 5% Mourvedre. Made by the newest Rhone Ranger, Andrew Murray, who was one of our guest winemakers at last year’s wine dance fest. Reminds one of Gigondas or perhaps Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
v 1999 Domaine St. Luc, Coteaux du Tricastin, $10.99—Just a juicy hunk of Grenache loving love. What most wines would be, if they could.
v 1997 Givry 1er Cru, Les Grands Pretans, Guillemette et Xavier Besson, $16.99—The 1997 Burgundies are beginning to peak now. This is still a bit ahead of prime time, but golly it is tasting dandy. There is earth, some guts and finesse too. Not perky. We wanted to make this “Wine of the Month,” but alas there are only four cases left. So get it while you can. It’s unlikely you could find a Burgundy as worthy for the price.
v 1999 Rivola, Abadia Retuerta, Sardon de Duero, $12.99—Though Spanish, this has similarities to a good Bordeaux (if there is such a thing). Lots of dark fruits and extract here. Some earth too. You can see why it’s an international media throb. 90 Points - Wine Advocate.
v 2000 Les Salices Viognier, $8.49—No doubt the best value Viognier we’ve encountered. It’s clean, lively, flavorful. And it sidesteps that bubble-gum essence that dooms most cheap Viogniers.
v 1997 Sierra Cantabria, Rioja Crianza, $12.99—These guys have become one of our favorite quality/price Rioja makers. From a mediocre vintage, they provide a glowing wine with delicious cherry flavors, not the mud and horror of most others.
Wines of the Month
2000 Trevor Mast, Four Sisters Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon, $15.99—A delightful “sitting around wine,” particularly by yourself. The nose is kind of like orange marmalade on toast. The mouthfeel is satiny. The flavors are complex and long. There is a vital spike of acid at the end that cleans the wine and gives one a hopeful look to the future. The bottling is an homage to Trevor Mast’s four daughters. I’d like to drink this with a turkey stuffed with oysters or sweetbreads. By the way, don’t confuse it with the lively Sauvignon Blancs coming from New Zealand. It’s richer, not as fruit driven.
2000 Los Altos Malbec, Las Hormigas, Regularly $11.99/Sale $10.99—The “ants.” Those who think that Gabriela Sabatini is the only sexy thing to come out of Argentina must reconsider their thoughts or go to “BA” and check things out. This is muscular, but sleek like Gabriela with an aptitude for seduction. In straight talk, it is an extracted red wine with clove, dark fruits, vanilla and other tasty essences that I fail to grasp. So I give up. I can say that it is far too good for the price, so none of the notorious Argentinian plastic surgery to pay for.
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COALTRAIN
Wine & Spirits
330 W. Uintah
Colorado Springs, CO 80905
719-475-9700