Newsletter
October,
2001
Wines of the Month
1999 Riesling Halbtrocken, Pfalz, Theo Minges, $10.99/liter— Imagine licking a river rock on the bank over the Roaring Fork or the Rhone in Switzerland (yes Switzerland, not France). This is so dry. But it has more enticements than a rock. There are apple fragrances and flavors. It’s extraordinarily long.The acid is almost creamy. We used it to re-hydrate after a mushroom foray in August. The alcohol level (11.5 percent) is enough to make it a candidate for the “tailgate” at a Bronco game. Theo Minges is a winemaker to admire.
2000 Vitiano, Falesco, $10.99—It “don’t” get better than this for the price. Italian, of course. It comes from serene Umbria, the state south of Tuscany that horrible, touristic nightmare (bad food too). There is coffee, chocolate-cherry and much more on the nose and palate. It's one third Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese. Umbria is one of the hot, emerging wine zones of Italy and thus the world. The wine is in the “International Style” and made by Italy’s winemaker of the year, Riccardo Cotarella (according to the questionable Italian wine review, GAMBERO ROSS0). But believe us, you want as much of this as you can get. The supply, now good, is decreasing as we breathe.
New Arrivals
1999 Belvedere Chardonnay, Sonoma, Regularly $12.99/Sale $11.99—You might not believe that we are touting a fairly oaky, California Chardonnay. Believe it. This wine is actually well balanced and delicious. And it’s the equal of many a $25 bottle of its type.
1999 Chalone Chardonnay, Regularly $30.99/Sale $28.99—This is a significant effort from Chalone, the venerable Chardonnay specialist, because it is pure and stylish, not large and lumbering. Many of the best California makers are going this way and Chalone is in there with these people.
1998 Kent Rasmussen Pinot Noir, $26.99/750ml or $14.99/375ml—We had almost given up on California Pinot Noir. This has looking back. It’s an exquisite Pinot with black cherry, black raspberry, cola nut and earth. Impressive work.
2000 Cortenova Pinot Grigio, $8.99—We need another Pinot Grigio like we need another hole in the “testa.” But this is so delicious we couldn’t resist. It’s not the usual, bland, prosaic PG swill. It’s complex with a creamy mid-palate.
1997 Le Bocce Chianti Classico Riserva, $19.99—Like Pinot Grigio, we don’t really need more Chianti, but again this is so remarkable we couldn’t resist. It is stylish and elegant, just what classic Chianti should be. In the time of “super Tuscans” and international style Chiantis, this shines bright.
1997 Rutz Cellars Chardonnay, Maison Grande Cru, Russian River, $22.99—We adore the wines from Rutz...Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. They are the synthesis of Burgundy and California. Blind, you’d be hard pressed to tell if this was from which place. That’s a compliment.
2000 Castaro Fume Blanc, Paso Robles, $7.49—Men, fear not. In Italian “Castaro” means “beaver,” not “castrato,” castrated one. But this does sing a soft, lilting song in your mouth. Not the “thwap” of a beaver tail on a mountain pond. There is a lot of melon, no beavers or castrated, male sopranos. Huh?
1999 Berberana Tempranillo, Dragon, $6.99—Tempranillo, Spain’s principal, fine, red grape. There is spice, cedar, red fruits leading to a silken mouth feel. THIS IS ONE OF THE FINEST VALUES WE'VE SEEN IN RED WINE IN A YEAR OR MORE.
2000 Picpoul de Pinet Blanc, Hugues Beaulieu, $7.99—We may have featured this before (can’t remember when). It’s an unbelievable dry, bony wine from southern France. For what it’s worth, the wine writer, Robert Parker, dubbed this the greatest Picpoul de Pinet he has ever drunk. But, who knows how many he has tasted? We’ve tasted dozens and this is the best we’ve had.
1998 Lyeth Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma, Regularly $13.99/Sale $12.99—These guys have always gone for subtlety and they did it again. So, it’s no blockbuster, but so refined. There are few, if any, Cabernets that can touch this for the price.
1998 Rocking Horse Zinfandel, Regularly $18.99/Sale $17.49—We’re nuts about this stuff. It kills you with depth and complexity. The grapes come from the Black Sears Vineyard of Turley fame. Get it quick. We have little and then the ’99 arrives which at this moment we don’t find as captivating.
1999 Za Zin, $17.99—Well, we’re nuts about this Zinfandel too (maybe we are just nuts?). It comes from 112 year old vines, made by the lauded Laurel Glen maker, Patrick Campbell. The make up is 79 percent Zinfandel and 21 percent Petite Syrah which makes for complementing flavors.
1999 Chateau Trocard, Bordeaux Superieur, $12.99—Cheap Bordeaux is normally cheap tasting...barnyardy, thin and pitiful on the palate. Not this one. It has substance and complex flavors. You might think it a $20 or $30 work.
1998 Cafaro Merlot, Napa, $37.99: "Old World" Napa valley. Is that an oxymoron? Maybe we are morons, but we like this a lot. There is tobacco, ethereal dirt and herb (man). Well composed.
1998 Coldstream Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Regularly $17.49/Sale $16.49: A pretty face leads you to the dark delights. It's not totally fruity, but fruit is the main attraction. It offers red fruit, black fruit and fruits that have yet to be categorized. If Hesse made wine, it might have been like this.
1999 d'Arenberg, The Stump Jump- Grenache/Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Regularly $12.99/Sale $11.99: Named after a plow, "stump jump", that could jump over the gnarly Eucalyptus roots in the area. This is a succulent, refreshing expression of Grenache (85 percent Grenache and 15 percent Shiraz). It's made by Chester Osborn, whose family has been making remarkable wines since 1912.
1998 Riesling Kabinett, Rudesheim, Grimm $10.99: A fairy tale of a wine. It's not quite as dry as our German wine of the month, but close. The refreshment level of this wine is worthy of some stories. Where are the brother Grimm descendants when we need them?
1998 Bridlewood Chenin Blanc, $8.99: A new winery and a nice wine. Close to dry with remarkable complexity. Honeysuckle, pear, cinnamon, yellow apple and quince dance on your tongue. Try it. Chenin Blanc is a great, misunderstood grape.
1999 Mazzi Valpolicella, $12.99: This was almost our wine of the month, until we remembered we featured another Valpolicella a few months back. There is spice, candied fruit and earth here. A prediction...Valpolicella will become one of Italy's most desireable, daily wines (if they can wake Bolla up).
2000 Domaine du Roc, Minervois, Expression, $9.99: The color is enough to buy this wine. If you want to drink it, you won't suffer. The flavors are soft and fine. We guess it's largely Grenache with some other southern French stuffing.
1999 Rouge Garance, Cotes du Rhone Villages, $12.99: Another one of our crazy, southern French wines. There is something indescribable in the nose that is agreeable (some kind of red fruit, perhaps). The palate is all "Victoria's Secret." The finish, well, that's for you to decide.
1997 Zia Cabernet Sauvignon, $59.99: One of few wines left from the profound 1997 vintage. It's a wine of depth with deep fruit and earth. It was made by Rick Forman. Only 232 cases were made. Barolos That Don’t Need to Breathe, The 1997 Vintage Contrary to what you may have heard from “soi-disant” wine experts, the 1997 vintage of Barolo is not monumental (see the attached story for precise details). Rather it is like the 1982 vintage of Bordeaux...fat, forward, alcoholic wines with some residual sugar and short term gratification. Yes, wines of seduction and the American palate. Yet some are pretty good and somewhat reasonably priced if you consider that the best from 1996 and 1998 (the profound years) hover around $100/bottle. We scouted these out before their release and they are pretty good. And they need no airing before draining.
1997 Icardi Barolo, Parej, $56.99—I wouldn’t call this the best value of the Barolos here. Its best point is that it could age and maybe become something special. I drank a glass the day after opening and thought it not bad.
1997 Marengo Barolo, Brunate, $59.99—This is the first wine I’ve tasted from this maker. It’s impressive. Succulent.
1997 Silvio Grasso Barolo, $49.99—Pretty simple stuff. Robert Parker scored it 91.
1997 Mauro Veglio Barolo, Vigneto Arborina $55.99—Fantastic. Complex, deep, yet drinkable now. It almost equals the great ’96 from this man, working in the La Morra commune of Barolo.
1997 Elio Grasso Barolo, Vigna Casa Mate, $39.99—This is the one you want. There is complexity and style. After the above Mauro Veglio wine, it is the best.
North by Northwest
Gosh, there are some interesting wines coming out of Washington and Oregon, of course, these days. As most know well, some splendid Cabernets and Merlots are being born in Washington’s Columbia Valley. And some good Rieslings and Pinot Gris are coming from Oregon. Naturally, Pinot Noir continues to be Oregon’s prime attraction and we continue to be dazzled on a regular basis. Here are some of the new products we’ve just received from the Northwest.
1998 Preston Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley, $22.99—A full-flavored Merlot with substance and aging potential. A good introduction to the vinous wonders of the Columbia Valley.
1998 Preston Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $22.99—A top shelf Cabernet at one-third that shelf's going prices. There is vanilla, dark fruits and dirt (one of our favorite flavors).
1999 Andrew Rich Pinot Noir, Les Vigneaux, Willamette Valley, $25.99—Yoiks! This is impressive. It comes from two complimentary vineyards...one provides what the other lacks. It has coffee, roasted dark fruits and other exotica. There is tannin which means it might age. We can think of no red Burgundy as good for the price. We’d love to try this again in two years. And note, this is their bottom level wine. Extremely rare.
2000 Chehalem Riesling, Corral Creek Vineyard, Willamette Valley, Oregon, $19.99—A mind boggling dry Riesling redolent of mineral and lime. Not German or Alsatian in essence. It’s more like a great Australian Riesling from the Clare Valley. Whatever, it’s the best American Riesling in our memory. Only 166 cases were made. Yes, it is a cult wine
2000 Chehalem Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, Oregon, $15.99—Another stunning product from Chehalem. It gives lush stone fruit, mineral, bright citrus and unifying acidity. Few, if any, Pinot Gris (or Pinot Grigios) from France or Italy could match this for the price.
1998 Girardet Cabernet Sauvignon, Umpqua Valley, Oregon, $14.99—As good as a $25 bottle of Bordeaux or Napa Cabernet. There is herb, smoke, depth and character. It’s Bordeaux in essence. We may be partial because the name “Girardet,” reminds us of our favorite cook ever, Frey Girardet, in Crissier, Switzerland.
Hey…Beerman! . . Oktoberfest
By Jensson Lear
Mention Germany and beer, and many people envision Munich’s famous Oktoberfest. In just 16 days, around 1,320,000 gallons of beer will be drunk in beer halls in Germany by thousands of visitors. It is the worlds biggest beer festival and copied worldwide. In 1882, Spaten brewing company created the amber-colored Oktoberfest beer that caused such a sensation it has been served ever since! Oktoberfest beers are typically amber in color, medium bodied, and unfiltered lagers which have a slight malty characteristic with a hint of hop aromas. Brewed in the Marzen tradition, they are brewed in mid-march for consumption during Oktoberfest. Ein Bier, Bitte!
Hacker-Pschorr Oktoberfest, $6.99/six pack Paulaner Oktoberfest, $6.99/six pack $17.99/One gallon self-tapping keg Spaten Oktoberfest Marzen, $6.99/six pack Sam Adams Oktoberfest, $6.49/six pack $10.99/twelve pack
Also...don’t miss Buffalo Bill’s Pumpkin Ale, $6.49/six pack. This seasonal beer satisfies your autumnal cravings with cinnamon, spice and a hint of pumpkin. Just like grandmas pumpkin pie!
WINE ALERT
BAROLO AND BARBARESCO, THE WONDER YEARS
Monforte d'Alba--Nobody here can figure it out. Five good vintages of Barolo and Barbaresco in succession (1995-1999). "Global warming," is cited often. Still it doesn't make sense. Normally, three good vintages a decade are all anyone hopes for.
As the mythical Bruno Giacosa appraised things, "I believe 1996 and 1998 to be great years. Nineteen ninety-five and 1999 are good, but lesser years. Nineteen ninety-seven is a good, but peculiar year, that will not age very long." Giacosa's opinion is widely shared.
Aldo Conterno said an interesting thing, "Nineteen ninety-six is one of the years that respects the typicity of the Nebbiolo grape. Nineteen ninety-seven is for people who don't know what Nebbiolo should be."
Generally my notes echo the views of Giacosa, Conterno and other makers of integrity. However, I wonder about the exalted quality of the 1995 vintage. Many of them showed rather "matter of fact," without a lot of complexity or charm. I have tasted quite a few 1993 Barolos and Barbarescos that I prefer to their 1995 siblings. Maybe the makers and press were irrationally exuberant for the 1995 wines.
WINE REVIEWS
BRERO
1996 Barolo: Seemingly "new style," this stuff is dynamite. It drank wondrously at the beginning and may improve for five or six years. It's one of the most satisfying '96s on the market today.
ALDO CANALE
1996 Barolo, Rionda: Canale has a prime vineyard in Rionda of the commune of Serralunga. He's one of the most traditional winemakers in Barolo, maybe all of Piedmont. He only sulfurs at harvest. This is a hard, tannic, rustic Barolo that needs at least ten years aging. It might end-up great?
1997 Barolo, Rionda: Canale calls 1997 a freak. And this wine is kind of freakish with an alcohol of 15 percent. It gives a sweet impression on the tongue. He made a 1997 Nebbiolo d'Alba that is wonderful.
1998 Barolo, Rionda: Perhaps the best Barolo Canale has ever made. It has power, depth, complexity and charm. Classic Barolo.
CERETTO
1996 Barbaresco, Faset: Well extracted. Full of soft, round tannins. Chocolate and cherries. Everything a Barbaresco could and should be.
1996 Barbaresco, Bricco Asili: A touch darker than the Faset with harder tannins. It's powerful, smoky, tarry and profound. Age this some. Celestial stuff.
1997 Barbaresco, Bernadot: A recent Ceretto purchase. Alessandro Ceretto told me that this is the most traditional Barbaresco they make. It's big fruit with soft tannins. Seventy percent is aged in large oak "botti" and 30 percent in 300 liter barrique. The large "botti" preserve fruit. Not outstanding. Drink soon.
1997 Barbaresco, Faset: This was aged 50/50 in "botti" and barrique. It's a ruby hued wine with a dried fruit nose. A sensual delight. You could drink this now and be extremely content.
1997 Barbaresco, Bricco Asili: In 1997 it doesn't get much better than this. Rubens' "Three Graces'" in a bottle. A nose of violets leads you into a fat, lush palate of ripe Nebbiolo fruit. One of the vintage's best bottles.
1996 Barolo, Brunate: Feminine and round, just like Ceretto's Brunate Barolos tend to be. Most agreeable at this young age. But there is some tannin for aging.
1996 Barolo, Prapo: From the Serralunga commune, known for manly Barolos, this is true to its provenance. The nose exudes vanilla and fruit. The palate offers lots of tannin, extract and power. Though extremely good, it lacks some finesse and charm. Three or four years age should amend this shortcoming.
1996 Barolo, Bricco Rocche: This is the best of Ceretto's '96 Barolos. It gives both power and finesse. Close to the perfect balance of fruit, tannin, oak and acid. Drink this five years from now and you'll be in heaven.
1997 Barolo, Brunate: A fascinating creature. With little doubt it is the most extracted Ceretto Brunate, I've tasted. Of course, it is one of the youngest too. There is a Cointreau essence in the nose that is hypnotic. It's very good, but so atypical for a Ceretto Brunate. I wonder what time will do to this?
DOMENICO CLERICO
1995 Barolo, Ciabot Mentin Ginestra: This has the usual malady of the 1995 vintage...lack of flavor intensity. It's even showing a little age when tasted in January 2001. Good, but not profound.
1996 Barolo, Ciabot Mentin Ginestra: One day after tasting the above '95 of this vineyard, I tasted this. What a difference a day makes. It's lovely, balanced with a riot of sensual stimulation. Another example of the
1996 vintages greatness. 1995 Barolo, Pajana: This will joust with the best '95 Barolos. It has more grip than most. It's black fruit and liquorice. But as fine as it is, it will only be very good. That's not so bad.
1996 Barolo, Pajana: Finally I got to meet the most renowned Domenico Clerico. I was in a restaurant drinking a rather respectable bottle of Bruno Giacosa 1990 Barbaresco Bricco Asili Riserva. "Huh, try this," he said. It's dark, brooding, massive, slightly lactic stuff. Put this in the cellar for 10 years and you will have a feast. Impressive, one of the leaders of the vintage.
ELVIO COGNO 1995 Barolo, Ravera: For years, Elvio Cogno made the wines at Marcarini and elevated them to the top levels. Now he makes his own wine in the village of Novello. This is pretty good, but typical of 1995. There are nice, plum essences, but it lacks the complexity for greatness.
ALDO CONTERNO
1995 Barolo, Gran Bussia: Aldo's top wine. It's a blend of three different vineyards--70 percent Romirasco, 15 percent Cicala and 15 percent Colonnello. I tasted this the day before it was bottled in March 2000. It's a lovely hued wine with blood edges and garnet heart. The nose offers the characteristic violets, dried roses and some tar. There are some dusty tannins. Has more complexity than most 1995 Barolos and is drinking nicely right now, but should mature over five or ten years.
1996 Barolo, Bussia Soprana: This is Conterno's generic bottling and it's one of the best Bussia Sopranas I've tasted. It's very extracted with a smoky nose. There is some nice dried fruit too. The flavors are rich and in need of time.
1996 Barolo, Colonnello: Along with Cicala, Colonnello is Conterno's most esteemed single vineyard bottling. Only 300 meters separate the vineyards, but the soil is different--Colonnello is sandy, Cicala is "tufa" (marl). And the wines are different. Colonnello is normally a bit softer and earlier drinking than Cicala. This Colonnello is accurately focused with violets in the nose. The flavors are big, with soft tannins. For its size it's remarkably pleasant now, but ten years or so will benefit it.
1996 Barolo, Cicala: Almost identical in color to the above Colonnello, but different in all other aspects. The nose is closed, emitting a bit of "goudron." The flavors are massive beyond description. Utterly heroic. Give it ten years and you will have a wine that few in the world could match.
1997 Barolo, Bussia Soprana: Dark and a bit closed, but giving some succulent fruit in the nose and on the palate. It deftly avoids the 1997 pitfalls of too much alcohol or residual sugar. This makes two superb Bussia Sopranas in succession. This is probably the better.
1997 Barolo, Colonnello: The nose might be called the typical '97 nose--raisins and caramel. Seems a little high in alcohol. But this will drive people crazy. There are dried fruits and some soft tannins on the palate. It should age awhile, but not as long as the '96 version.
1997 Barolo, Romirasco: This will constitute 70 percent of the blend of the Gran Bussia. It was pure on tasting. Aldo wanted to show what the foundation for his top wine is like. What a giant! Almost opaque with a tannic structure to match. With this to build upon, the 1997 Gran Bussia should be one of the biggest and best yet.
1998 Bussia Soprana: Make it three great Bussia Sopranas in a row. This is more lithe and sensual than the '97. And it's less severe than the '96. It's fine, cultured and well-tutored, like all Conterno wines.
1998 Barolo, Colonnello: Dark garnet color. The nose is expansive with Nebbiolo fruit. There is a toasty component that would make me assume it had been in barrique in a blind tasting. But no. Little early to be certain, but this should be an unusually alluring Colonnello.
1998 Barolo, Cicala: Dark, closed, brooding. In other words, the paragon of young Cicala. Again early, but this seems like it should become great.
1998 Barolo, Romirasco: Pure Romirasco, an academic taste again, before blending. It's another giant. I'd like to see a bottling of this in 20 years. For my children, not me. I've drunk too much Barolo to be here then.
CONTERNO-FANTINO
1996 Barolo, Sori Ginestra: I'm not an advocate of the "modern style, small oak aged Barolo," but this is a most attractive wine. My notes read, "Sexy black fruit, toasty oak, but with depth of flavor, not superficial beauty. It's like Julia Roberts reading snippets of Nabokov." Modernist Barolo makers can rejoice here.
ANGELO GAJA
1995 Barolo, Sperss: Typical of 1995 again. It's fairly light and simple. This is good, but there is something incomplete, perhaps depth. And when you use as much oak as Angelo Gaja employs, it seems to accent the incompleteness of the wine and vintage.
1996 Barbaresco, Normale: Looking for a wine from Gaja at a "buyable" price? Get this. It's well colored with an intense nose of cassis, kirsch and oak (of course). It's very enjoyable now. But in five or so years it will be terrific.
1996 Barbaresco, San Lorenzo: This is noticeably harder, more tannic and more masculine than the above "normale." It should be. It comes from one of Gaja's best vineyards. San Lorenzo is renowned for making his most powerful Barbaresco. Somewhat mono-dimensional now. Ten years of aging should metamorphose this into something quite good.
BRUNO GIACOSA
1996 Barbaresco, Gallina: A wine full of soft edges and elbows. Overall enigmatic. The color is garnet, bordering on ruby. The nose is subtle, but complex. The flavors are subdued, but somewhat tannic. It's drinkable, but needs time. I don't know? It's very good, but not profound.
1996 Barbaresco Riserva, Bricco Asili: Nine months in the bottle when tasted. Earthy, dark, tannic with some tar. There is so much depth and flavor here, it is impossible to adequately describe. It is the finest Barbaresco I have tasted from the sublime 1996 vintage. It is to hit the market very soon.
1996 Barolo Riserva, Falletto: A monumental wine. There are black fruits and liquorice in the mix. It has tannin in the proper proportions to its immense size. This is most likely the finest 1996 Barolo I have tasted. Look for it in 2001 or 2002.
1997 Barbaresco, Santa Stefano: From what Giacosa described as a "peculiar vintage." It is viscous with glycerin and caramel notes in the nose. There is a bit of lilac in the nose too. It is sweet and round on the tongue. It is pretty much ready to drink and should last for five years or so.
1997 Barolo, Falletto: Barolo as Amarone, with the raisin and tar. It's warm and round on the palate. It gives you a sense of profound well-being when you drink it. Possibly five years from its best drinking.
1998 Barbaresco, Santo Stefano: Giacosa thinks that 1998 is a great year for Barolo and Barbaresco. If you taste this, you will agree. Dark garnet in color. There is black cherry, spice and tar on the nose and palate. It will be an appropriate member of Giacosa's regal lineage of Santa Stefano Barbarescos.
1998 Barolo, Falletto: Curiously, this didn't appear as dark in color as the above Santa Stefano Barbaresco, but what a killer wine. It is profound, packed with dried fruit and sweet tannins. A bit too early to say with certainty, but this should become a very great Barolo with more aging in the cellar.
ELIO GRASSO
1996 Barolo, Ginestra Vigna Casa Mate: Classic dried rose and licorice aromas. But somewhat closed. On the tongue the tannins are soft with dark fruit. Perfectly balanced. Remarkably enjoyable now, but should improve for 10 years or so. A superlative wine on every level.
1996 Barolo, Gavarini Vigna Chiniera: Very good, but a morsel below the "Casa Mate" in quality. It lacks the complexity of its sibling. It's more cherries and red berries. Still, it's a most estimable wine. Both wines are good values too.
1997 Barolo, Ginestra Vigna Casa Mate: Gobs of sweet fruit and alcohol. So, fairly typical of the '97 vineyard. Thus not a lot of tannin or structure. Drink it young and feel happy. It's a good wine. Grasso is a formidable maker.
SILVIO GRASSO
1997 Barolo: A perplexing wine that begins like an Amarone (raisened and sweet) and ends up after an hour or two as astringent and lean. Kind of typical of the difficulties imposed by the 1997 vintage.
M. MARENGO
1997 Barolo, Brunate: This is the first wine I've tasted from this producer. Honestly, I'd never heard of them before this bottle tasted in August 200l. It's impressive with leaping gouts of red fruit. No noticeable "97 sugar problems." Seems like there is a bump of small wood aging that is well applied. Probably will peak in five years. I will search for more of this makers wines.
MONFALLETTO
1995 Barolo, Enrico VI: Monfalletto bottles two Barolos, called Enrico VI and Monfalletto. The latter, from the La Morra commune, is softer and drinks earlier. The Enrico VI, coming from a 3 hectare vineyard in the Castiglione Falletto commune, is stiffer, deeper and more age worthy. This is true to type. It might turn out to be one of the better '95 Barolos.
PALLADINO
1995 Barolo, Normale: Very light color with substantial bricking. In the mouth it is harsh and seems to be already drying out. From the long-lived Serralunga commune, it's shocking how tired it seems. Though most reasonably priced, I'd probably not buy it. Tasted twice, by the way.
1995 Barolo, Vigna Broglio: Drinking lovely in July, 2001. I've never heard of "Vigna Broglio" and, since Palladino sources grapes from all over the place I can not be certain that this comes from the commune of Serralunga where he works. A visit needs to be paid to this cantina.
1996 Barbaresco: A polar opposite of the "normale" Barolo, one above. This is dark, lively and young. The nose is muted, but what you draw out is classic dried rose and tar. The flavors are forceful and pretty tannic, but balanced by fruit. In five years, this will be a pretty darn good Barbaresco.
PARROCO di NEIVE
1995 Barbaresco, Gallina: Don Giuseppe Cogno bottles two different Barbaresco vineyards--Gallina and Basarin. This is pretty good. It's bricking a bit. There are smoky, nutty aromas. And full, dried fruit flavors on the tongue. It appears to be approaching its peak. Not outstanding.
PARUSSO
1996 Barolo, Bussia Vigna Rocche: Marco Parusso has produced a phenomenal wine here. Of course, it's a bit ungiving in the nose and palate. But what you tease out is outstanding. It has the tar, tannin and fruit for further greatness. Essences of herbs, spice and liquorice are hypnotic. I'd bet everything in my wallet that this, to date, is the best wine the Parusso winery has made.
ELVIO PERTINACE
1995 Barbaresco, Marcarini: In comparison to almost all of the wines here, this suffers. Of course, 1995 isn't the finest year and, for me , the Treiso commune of Barbaresco, whence this comes, isn't the best. But there is something odd here, perhaps coming from the oak. It wasn't corked, but could be an off bottle.
E. PIRA e FIGLI
1995 Barolo: Chiara Boschis, owner of this winery, makes a Barolo blended from two vineyards--Cannubi and San Lorenzo. This pleasant, young woman is trying to find her "metier" in this revered old winery. She has done pretty well here. It's solid, round, drinkable just not all that stimulating (like the vintage).
1996 Barolo: Now this one is a problem. It's an absolute oak bomb and, in spite of the intensity of the 1996 vintage, it can't handle this amount of oak. Somehow, I think Signorina Boschis is trying to change her Barolo into something it isn't. She should work with the vineyards and highlight the cherry and mint aspects of the San Lorenzo vineyard and the feminine charms of Cannubi. Barolo can be feminine.
1997 Barolo: For me, this is the best of Pira's three Barolos reviewed. It's big, drinkable, fun Barolo. It might improve for five or more years, but you can enjoy it now. It will not be a classic Barolo. This determined woman has her work cut out, to assemble her duo of vineyards for a better whole.
PRODUTTORI di BARBARESCO
1995 Barbaresco, Normale: Many have thought this to be the best wine cooperative in Italy. But I wonder? This is their basic wine and it's pretty basic. They bottle several single vineyard Barbarescos, but they were sold out when I visited the winery to buy wine. This wine is hardly inspirational, but agreeable.
1996 Barbaresco, Normale: Pretty much a replay of the 1995. There is slightly more substance.
GIUSEPPE RINALDI
1995 Barolo, Brunate/Le Coste: Beppe Rinaldi has taken to blending his revered Brunate vineyard with wine from Le Coste. He feels the Brunate often lacks acid and the other vineyard adds acid. This offers violets and tar, cinnamon and spice. It's well equilibrated. No blockbuster, nice right now.
1995 Barolo, Ravera/San Lorenzo: Soft, yet fairly complex. There is that fetching cherry from San Lorenzo. You can drink it now.
1996 Barolo, Brunate/Le Coste: The ager of this group, no surprise. When tasted a couple years ago it was closed in the nose and pretty hard on the palate. Could become great like the 1990 Brunate Riserva.
1997 Barolo, Brunate/Le Coste: Rinaldi's crowd pleaser. Dark, garnet color. Rich, fat, full of sweet fruit and sweet alcohol. Utterly agreeable in the mouth.
GIUSEPPE RIVETTI
1997 Barbaresco, Starderi: This maker is known for its red wine called, "Pin," that is 50 percent Nebbiolo and 25 percent each of Barbera and Cabernet Sauvignon. It's also famous for its Moscato d'Asti. I tasted this blind with Giorgio Rivetti and some of his "Barolisti" pals...Clerico, Scavino, Parusso, Boschis, et. al. It is full of oak and the sweet fruit, characteristic of the vintage. Will send many wine writers to the moon. The "lumber" is just too overbearing for me.
BRUNO ROCCA
1996 Barbaresco, Rabaja: Enigmatic. The first bottle tasted perfectly balanced and lavishly complex. The second, tasted 6 months later, was hard, closed, tannic and brazenly astringent. This is not how Barbaresco is supposed to evolve. So, what is the true Rocca Rabaja?
ALBINO ROCCA
1997 Barbaresco, Bric Ronchi: Extremely extracted with a scent of barrique in the nose. Rich flavors with sweet fruit and soft tannins. Overall, and typical of the vintage, the flavors are sweet. And I think this sweetness may come from the 14% alcohol and, perhaps, some residual sugar. This is a fun wine to drink now, but not one for years in the cellar.
SANDRONE
1995 Barolo, Cannubi Boschis: Sadly, I didn't get by Sandrone's new winery to taste. This was purchased in a restaurant. It was a disappointment coming from one of my favorite Barolo makers. It's closed and simple now. Maybe time will improve matters? I drank the 1993 version the night before and it was superior. Silken and almost wantonly sensual. This is good, but just not the level we want from this gifted maker.
PAOLO SCAVINO
1996 Barolo, Rocche dell'Annunziata: Blood red color somewhat belies its youth. I couldn't tease out a clear nose. But the palate gives you massive essences of tobacco, liquorice, cherry and tar. Keep a look-out for this beauty. And drink it over the next ten years.
AURELIO SETTIMO
1995 Barolo, Rocche: The package here includes tobacco, cedar, spice, tannin and fruit. It's good, solid stuff. It just lacks a bit of flash or pizazz.
G.D. VAJRA
1996 Barolo, Bricco delle Viole: A pretty, light, sexy Barolo. The lovely, almost Burgundian nose is its most attractive features. The flavors are light and acidic. Seems to need some stuffing.
MAURO VEGLIO
1996 Barolo, Vigna Arborina: Young impression. It's dark and assertive in the mouth. There are gobs of tannin, but with adequate dark fruit. It seems to be precisely balanced. Most likely the finest Veglio Barolo I've drunk.
1997 Barolo, Vigna Arborina: Stop the presses. This may be the finest Veglio Barolo I've drunk. It has a bewitching nose of dried rose, violets and tar. Not a lot of tannin. Wow, what flavors. Should hang-out to 2007 or so.
COALTRAIN
Wine & Spirits
330 W. Uintah
Colorado Springs, CO 80905
719-475-9700