Newsletter
July, 2000
WINES OF THE MONTH
We did this five or 10 years ago (our ethanol addled memories can't remember exactly when) and have decided to do it again. Basically, we look for wines of extraordinary quality for the price. And this normally translates into slightly, oddball stuff that is so rare and so good that, if you don't come by the day after you receive the newsletter, it's likely gone. This causes upset because some believe, well, they've been "screwed." Happily, we aren't like the supermarket stores that can always provided an unlimited supply of cheap plonk. Here comes the heartbreak.
1999 Can Feixes, Blanc Seleccio, Penedes, $8.99: You'd never find this place in a billion years. Luckily, 10 years ago, I had the owner's son pick me off the floor of "Up and Down" in Barcelona and drive me. This is the highest vineyard in the Penedes DO and the vines are so stressed that the wines are aromatic beyond description. No wood, too good. Mainly Parellada, called "Montonec" up there. It's the mainstay of whites in the zone. And there is a dollop of Chardonnay to give some body weight. The absolute summer sipper. These people also make superb Cava, under the Huguet (their name) label.
1998 Cotes du Rhone Villages, Domaine St. Luc, $14.99: Twenty cases for Colorado, we got most. My God, we're greedy. It's dark and dusty. There is white pepper, green pepper and black pepper in the nose. It's the "rainbow coalition." But a bit more focused and refined. Much like a particularly jovial Gigondas or Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Could age three or four years. Why bother? If any remains, we'll pour it at our Rhone tasting.
NEW ARRIVALS
1997 Clarendon Hills Chardonnay, Kangarilla Vineyard, Regularly $25.99/Sale $19.99: A creation of one of the world's finest Chardonnay producers. It's a fat, buttery wine that would make most Burgundies taste thoroughly anorexic in comparison. Not for "leg people."
1998 Solitude Chardonnay, Carneros, Regularly $22.99/Sale $19.99: It startles for California drink. In brief, there is pear, apple, honey, fig and a bump of oak. Certain to shine at our Chardonnay tasting. The WINE SPECTATOR Liked this one too, giving it a "90" rating and a "Spectator Selection".
1997 Nyers Chardonnay, Carneros, $30.99: Bruce Nyers, late of Kermit Lynch, Phelps and others, is always creating somewhere or other. This is bold, bright, creamy smooth, pear-like, fig-like, redolent of apricot and melon. And best of all for Bruce, the WINE SPECTATOR scored it 93. Bye-bye wine.
1999 Elsa Semillon-Chardonnay, $6.99: Here's a pretty little summer delight from Argentina. It's fruity and fresh, and thoroughly refreshing. It would be a good one to cool down in a stream during a mountain hike, like up Booth Creek, near Vail.
1996 Bianchi Malbec, $10.99 Another Argentine product. It has dark plum fruit and more. It was fermented in steel and aged in French oak. It has a nose worthy of Diego Maradona. And almost dances a tango on your tongue. More a polka actually.
1998 Ramsay Pinot Noir, California, Regularly $13.99/Sale $12.99: This has no problem taking a lie detector test. From Carneros fruit, it's lively, fresh, charming, not frumped up and lawyer tuned. An honest wine, Patsy.
1997 Quinta do Cotto, Douro Red, $?????: Simply put, this is one of the most remarkable things we've ever stuck in our mouths. It's cinnamon, earth and indescribable jungle fruit. Just get it and it will transport you to one of those funky bars on the Douro River in Porto, where ambulatory venders constantly try to sell you condoms, cigarettes and fishing lures.
1998 Joao Pires Moscato, $10.49: The subtle deceiver. The nose is so floral and lush, but the palate is dry. Could be the ultimate summer "deck-adent" wine. At least, we'll use it as such. Comes from Setubal, south of Lisbon.
1997 Consentino Pinot Noir, $24.99: Consentino is a big advocate of punching down the cap during fermentation, "a la Bourgogne." And, yes, he obtains a lot of style and Burgundian essence and nuance. Most impressive. 1997 Consentino Chardonnay, $14.99: Kind of the white analogue of the above Pinot. Made from the Wente clone of Chardonnay, coming from Meursault, you could be fooled of its provenance. The barrels are also from Meursault yielding oak that is more prominent on the nose than the tongue. WINE SPECTATOR "90".
1997 Consentino Merlot, Napa, $22.99: Again made by punching down the cap, not the "remontage" of Bordeaux. The result is a stylish wine with intensity. There are fetching spicy, currant and black fruit aspects.
1996 Ludon Pomies Agassac, Regularly $26.99/Sale $19.99 The second label of Chateau La Lagune Ludon (3rd Growth). Our distributor unexpectedly obtained more of this wonderful Haut Medoc and we quickly purchased a substancial amount of it- hence the incredibly low sale price. Well integrated cherry fruit, with soft tannins, it is drinking well now and yet will age for several years.
Top Shelf
1996 Harlan Estate $249.99 WA "98" This is becoming one of the most sought after wines in the world. The Wine Advocate gave it a "98" and this rave review..." opaque purple/plum color, as well as a spectacular soaring nose of wood fire, roasted herbs, black currants, tobacco, minerals, and all spice. The wine is full-bodied and multi-layered, with terrific flavor concentration, well-integrated tannin, and a blockbuster finish. It is one of the most concentrated and complete wines one could hope to taste." Very Limited!
1997 Dominus $109.99 WA "94" To quote Robert Parker, " Christian Moueix and his talented winemaking team continue to rewrite the definition of a Napa valley reference point wine. The 1997 may be the most accessible Dominus made to date. The wine is charming, fleshy and has a silky texture. The 1997 possesses lots of glycerin, terrific fruit purity and gobs of black cherry and cassis flavors intermixed with licorice, coffee and Asian spice notes. Drinkable now but will age well for 15 to 20 years."
1997 Napanook Proprietary Red $36.99 WA "90"
This is the little brother of Dominus- a great way to taste the style of Dominus without the hefty price tag. Parker describes it as having "aromas of tobacco, cedar, and cherry jam. Opulently textured, succulent, rich. Undeniably hedonistic, it caresses the palate. Already delicious, it will drink well for a decade."
We have a few 1994- 1997 verticals of Dominus available for $500.00/set. Remember, the '94 Dominus included in this vertical received a perfect score of "100" from the Wine Advocate.
SPEAK MEMORY
That 'ol 1996 Casa de Santar Dao Riserva ($12.49) is tantalizing everyone's tastebuds again. It has become so smooth and handsome that it's breaking hearts everywhere it goes. The end of stock is near.
Meanwhile, Chateau Routas also continues to tantalize. It's kind of a weird set-up, like most relationships. The winery, above Toulon, France, where the French navy parks battleships, is owned by a Quebecois banker and the wine is made by Bob Lindquist from Qupe in California. Their 1998 Coquelicot ($13.99), from Viognier and Chardonnay is too sultry for words, like a disco date with French starlet, Virginie Leydoyen might be. At the same time, the 1999 rose ($8.99) might not be stimulating romances so rapidly, but it is as refreshing as "pink wine" can be. More agreeable than a "cold shower." (Flora Springs Article)
Jim and I recently had the opportunity to attend a luncheon featuring the vineyard designate wines of Flora Springs. These wines are produced in very limited quantities and are for the first time, being offered to a few retail outlets in Colorado. We were impressed with the wines and are pleased to be able to offer them to you.
The point of making a wine using grapes only from a specific vineyard is to emphasize terroir. Terroir is the soil, sun exposure, steepness of the hillsides and other nuances that make one location unique from another...and the resulting wines unique from other wines. Single vineyard wines have their own personalities and that's what we found so appealing.
1998 Flora Springs Lavender Hill Chardonnay
From a 31/2 acre vineyard in Carneros, this wine is produced without malolactic fermentation. It is fruit driven with full flavors but in a crisp style. Light and long on the palate, the tropical flavors are bright and lively. And, although it is fermented and aged in French oak barriques, the oak is very subtle. If you are tired of heavy, ponderous chardonnays you'll be delighted by this one!1996 Flora Springs Wild Boar Cabernet Sauvignon
The wild Boar Vineyard is located in Pope Valley, the "last frontier" of Napa. And yes, you got it, wild marauding boars do invade the vineyards from time to time. Perhaps that is why this is such a muscular wine. It has firm tannins that support complex flavors of spicy black currants, anise, tobacco and briar. This is not an oaky, jammy, one-dimensional cabernet---It's a much more interesting style. The Wild Boar Cabernet is drinking quite well now but be sure and give it some time in the glass to open up. It will age gracefully for at least six years.1997 Flora Springs Windfall Vineyard Merlot
WOW - Now this is a good merlot! A 41/2 acre vineyard in the Rutherford Appellation of Napa yields the grapes for this wine which is deep and dense with juicy plum, black cherry, wild berry and spice flavors. This is much more complex than most merlots and as it opens up in the glass, it becomes more and more Bordeaux-like. Yes, this is worth the money! Again, give it some time in the glass or age it for several years.These wines are all very limited in supply. Try them soon...before they are gone.
NEW ZEALAND'S ASCENDING WHITES
The "Kiwis" are drawing "bravos" for their white wines. Though vines have been cultivated here since 1831, the real blossom didn't come until the 1970s. Most of the success has come with the white wines, particularly Sauvignon Blanc, though there have been successes with Pinot Noir as well. Perhaps the best place for the white varietals is the Marlborough district of the south island. For instance, for Sauvignon Blanc, this district produces characteristically more zesty, aromatic and, occasionally, herbaceous wines. More substantial S.B. Here are three favorite whites just in the door.
1999 Brancott Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, Regularly $10.99/Sale $9.99: There is something of an unidentifiable tropical fruit aspect here, with the trademark zesty, crisp and refreshing qualities of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Something like Gauguin in Tahiti. Best with topless Polynesians.
1999 Kim Crawford Chardonnay, Marlborough, $16.99: A remarkable effort. No oak, but malolactic fermentation. So there is creaminess and grapefruit flavours and a bewitching hazelnut dimension, without the heaviness that often results from oak.
1999 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, $19.99: One of New Zealand's wine icons. The nose is bewitching There is the characteristic grapefruit, but it's so creamy and complex as well. What elevates it above the flock is the elegance. It's not aggressive, but soft and inviting with a beautiful balance of fruit and acidity.
WINE AND FOOD ADVISORY
"Cucina Mantovana," The Finest Restaurants in Italy, Maybe "Il Mondo"
Canneto sull'Oglio, Italy--This region around the town of Mantua is something of a lost corner of Italy though it is within an hour's drive of Milan or Verona. It's kind of homely, compared with the rest of Italy. Call it rural, not abounding with artistic treasures. But if you like to eat the finest food, there is no place in Italy that can beat it.
This is the Padania. The great plain formed by the Po River and its tributaries such as the Oglio and Mincio. It's a rich and fertile lowland where many of Italy's best and costliest food stuffs are bred and born. To mention some of the most well known products, there are parmigiano cheese, Parma hams, the superior culatello ham, the salamis of Feline and the "salami da Sugo." There is a vast selection of the finest vegetables, bovines, swines, fish and fowl. The Padania is said to be the richest and most remunerative food valley in the world!
Actually, I wasn't quite accurate in the opening paragraph...there is art here. And the force behind this art presence is the force behind the cuisine. You see, during the Renaissance, Mantua thrived as an important artistic and cultural center. The reason for this was the Gonzaga family that ruled the region from 1328 to 1624. Among many artists they brought into the region was Andrea Mantegna who painted the stunning frescoes in Mantova's Palazzo Ducale. In addition to enjoying art, the Gonzagas liked to eat. They developed a noble cuisine. And today the best Mantuan restaurants offer a synopsis and further elaboration of that cuisine.
So just what is this "noble cuisine?" It is things like "Tortelli di zucca" (ravioli stuffed with pumpkin), "Insalata di cappone" (capon salad), "Luccio in salsa alla mantovana" (pike in a basil, anchovy and caper sauce ), "Anguilla in salsa alla mantovana" (eel in the previous Mantuan sauce), "Risotto alla pilota" (risotto served with sausage, pork, cheese or fish) and "Carciofi e fegato di vitello al burro e rosmarino" (artichokes and veal liver in a butter and rosemary dressing) These are some of the traditional dishes of this cuisine and of course the best cooks today go even farther.
And these cooks do not go unnoticed. Michelin has given a flurry of stars. You have the top three stars held by Dal Pescatore, two stars at Al Bersagliere and Ambasciata, and several one stars. And the customers come from Milan, Verona and even Genoa. The food is thought to be well worth the effort of the drive. For we Americans, these restaurants are more than worth the flight and following drive. Here are my favorites.
DAL PESCATORE
Perhaps the finest restaurant in Italy and among the top ten in the world. It is operated by the Santini family. Nadia Santini, the head chef, is, I believe, the first woman to receive the top, three star, Michelin rating. Just taste the traditional, "Tortelli di zucca con burro e parmigiano" (pumpkin ravioli with butter and parmigiano cheese), you will know why fame stopped here. A meal for two with moderate wine runs $280. Cheap in the world of great cuisine. The restaurant is in the hamlet of Runate, 23 miles west of Mantova. It is closed Monday and Tuesday. Most credit cards are accepted. Phone 011 39 (0376) 723001.
AL BERSAGLIERE
Some 15 minutes from Dal Pescatore in the direction of Mantua in the village of Goito, this restaurant's ascent to fame has been similar. It holds two Michelin stars and many of its devotees will argue that it is just as superb as its neighbor. This is another family operation, run by the Ferraris. Like the Santinis, the Ferraris offer Mantuan cuisine with a personal touch. Two dishes I could eat until death are the "Storione con salsa di acciughe (Sturgeon in anchovy sauce) and "Tacchinella ripiena alle castagne" (Turkey stuffed with chestnuts). The restaurant is perched over the Mincio River, a blue ribbon of serene water, that is one of the most beautiful in the Padania. A dinner for two with reasonable wine runs about $220. Closed Monday and Tuesday lunch. The Phone number is 011 39 (0376) 688399.
GAMBERO
It was market day when I visited Calvisano, the village where Gambero resides. A stroke of luck. Calvisano has an honest feeling and so does the restaurant. I took the "degustazione" (the tasting menu) as usual for a first visit. You expect this to be a representation of the cook's best work. There were seven plates in total, two appetizers. One of the appetizers was "Pate d'anguilla" (eel pate) which had to equal or exceed any pate or terrine I've ever eaten. The other dish that really grabbed me was simply two "cannelloni," one stuffed with the traditional pumpkin, the other with "mostarda" (a chutney-like composition of various fruits preserved in a sauce of mustard, honey, white wine and other spices). Could be the finest Michelin one star meal I've eaten. The above tasting menu cost was only $45! Closed Wednesday. Reservations can be made by calling 011 39 (030) 968009.
AMBASCIATA
Though only 20 miles south of Mantua, Ambasciata, in the town of Quistello, seems to be in a world of its own. The dining room with oriental rugs, lavish silver candelabras, abundance of flowers and Italian opera testing the sound system is a world of its own and that is precisely what the owners, Romano and Francesco Tamani, want. Start with the "Culatello con mostarda di mele campine" (The tenderest core of prosciutto from a two year old pig, marinated in red wine with apples preserved in a syrup of mustard, honey and white wine). In the world of great hams, only Spain's "jabugo" could vie with this. Another thing to look for is the "Tortino di quaglia in salsa di asparagi" (Quail omelet with an asparagus sauce). Ambasciata has two Michelin stars and the highest Italian ratings. A meal for two runs about $250. Closed Sunday night and Monday. Reservations call 011 39 (0376) 619169.
AQUILA NIGRA
It's only just that one of the restaurants here is located in Mantua proper. And this has a choice position, across from the Palazzo Ducale, down an alley. Though not as celestial as the preceding restaurants, you can have a very pleasant experience here. Some of the Mantuan dishes to order are "Pesce perisco in salsa Mantovana" (freshwater fish in an anchovy sauce), and the house "Maccheroni alla Ducale" (macaroni with beans and ham). It's hardy and tasty like a correct Mantuan dish. A meal for two runs about $120. The location is vicolo Bonacolsi 4. Closed Monday and Sunday night in April and May. For reservations call, 011 39 (0376) 327 180.
